most rr's will say corrected or uncorrected across the top.

does yours?

most rr's will say corrected or uncorrected across the top.

does yours?

No it does'nt say corrected/uncorrected :confused: TBH it looks the same as all the other jabba rr print outs I've seen posted on here lol

It does say "Cv" on it after the power figures, could that mean "corrected value" ?

i thought the jabba graphs showed the torque, wheel power, fly power and corrected power on them in different colours.

Well guys I will let you all know what I get on Monday as my car is going to Jabba

I have my figure from the Marlin RR day so if I get way more than that on the per map power run we will all know the score

Of course if I don't see 250 after I'll be pi$$ed

As long as the car drives nice to the way you want it then who cares about pub figures

Come on dont be shy........what did ya get then ?????

Results to follow

Results to follow

Follow what?

Follow what?

Another RR

Jabba 247bhp

Marlin 238bhp

I ran 209bhp at the rolling road day in sept(Revo Stage 2).....so all in all very happy.

I will post my comments in the Jabba section

Rolling Road Tuning - Aftermarket ECU sales, Installations & Tuning - Taking Dyno engine performance to the next level that link is to AE Turbo's web site where they posted my Octy Mk 1 as their car of the month cos of the increases (174 - 266ft/lb, 159-200 BHP at wheels, not flywheel as stated) with a custom re-map. Im still running the standard SMIC - changed just bout everything else tho. Maybe change to FMIC later, however i will be getting biggest possible that fits off e-bay with a multifit hose kit and getting the hacksaw out if i need to, should cost bout £200 and not £600 - maybe a bit more messing about tho. Just getting rid of the standard squahed pipework should help! should also note the guy that mapped the car said not to bother with the intercooler, no point doing anything else unless I change the turbo as that is what is restricting it at the moment. Maybe does loose a little power through higher inlet air temp but at end of day when you are spinning it up in third do you really miss it?

the issue with intercooler inadequacies is all about how long a time you are putting heat into it compared with the recovery time in between.

On a standard 180 bhp car the single SMIC is just about adequate in sensible ambient temperatures. In hot summer it will be struggling.

With a simple stg! remap to say 220bhp and 1.5bar boost or so, the stad IC is no longer any use beyong short squirts of power lasting less than 20-30 seconds in sensible ambient temps. In this time the charge air temperature will be exceeding 60C which is about where things will start to back off in terms of ignition timing and maybe boost. If you are expecting to use the power on a more continuous level, then the SMIC will just not be keeping up, and significant power loss will result.

The rolling road doesn't necessarily tell the whole story - if it's got a decent cooling setup and low ambient air temperatures, the power run is quite a short timespan which may be short enough to let the IC just about manage for the duration. Take it out on the road and use the power for longer durations and the picture is quite different, especially if we start considering track use.

If anyone still needs convincing, try logging boost pressure, inlet charge temperature and ignition knock retard values on a cold night and then a warm day and see what happens

my IC may have cost £600 but its about as big as is worth fitting and needs no modifications to the car at all.

the core is about 400x300x90 i think, sod i'm gonna go measure it.

after a quick measure its more like 500mm wide

I was thinking of putting something like this on mine, Large-TwinPass-Front-Mount-Intercooler, E-bay itemZ320186542965 . It has entry and exit on the same side which some people think somehow restricts airflow but it doesn't really make much difference as its a forced air flow from a compressor (turbo), makes it a lot easier to fit and allows a longer core to be used. I dont blame anyone for buying a nice kit with a brand name on it but I would rather save my money for beer! I have a lot of snap on tools, nice n shiny with snap-on stamped on them. At the end of the day they undo nuts just the same as a halfords spanner costing a fith of the price. The point I was making was that the difference in cost between a £700 intercooler kit and a £130 intercooler and £70 hose kit is about the same as a damn good custom remap. So if you aint got wads of cash to throw at your VRS then a £200 FMIC wont be that much less efficient than a £700 to make it worth worrying about.

I hope I aint upset anyone thats forked out £6-700 on a shiny kit, that wasn't my intention.

Depends how good the core is, and also how large the end tanks are, as they dont look very big on that picture.

Good luck with it

The point I was making was that the difference in cost between a £700 intercooler kit and a £130 intercooler and £70 hose kit is about the same as a damn good custom remap. So if you aint got wads of cash to throw at your VRS then a £200 FMIC wont be that much less efficient than a £700 to make it worth worrying about.

As they say"You get what you pay for"

As they say"You get what you pay for"

They do say that, but then that doesnt always ring true.

XS Power products are quite cheap, but is often very good

equally, paying $$$ doesn't guarantee a proportional improvement

As Mike says, some XSpower stuff is actually ok for the price.

Twin-pass cores aren't neccesarily so restrictive as it would first appear, although I would want to make the endtank larger and/or different shape to make some improvement.

Ultimately with these things, experience is king, and you just have to try and see how it works

I was thinking of putting something like this on mine, Large-TwinPass-Front-Mount-Intercooler, E-bay itemZ320186542965 . It has entry and exit on the same side which some people think somehow restricts airflow but it doesn't really make much difference as its a forced air flow from a compressor (turbo), makes it a lot easier to fit and allows a longer core to be used. I dont blame anyone for buying a nice kit with a brand name on it but I would rather save my money for beer! I have a lot of snap on tools, nice n shiny with snap-on stamped on them. At the end of the day they undo nuts just the same as a halfords spanner costing a fith of the price. The point I was making was that the difference in cost between a £700 intercooler kit and a £130 intercooler and £70 hose kit is about the same as a damn good custom remap. So if you aint got wads of cash to throw at your VRS then a £200 FMIC wont be that much less efficient than a £700 to make it worth worrying about.

I hope I aint upset anyone thats forked out £6-700 on a shiny kit, that wasn't my intention.

thats complete rubbish, cores vary massively in terms of flow rate and this is what you pay for. the custom intercoolers do cost more but they are bigger and flow better so offer much better cooling of the charge air.

the following file is from a tuner on testing many different intercoolers.

intercoolers.txt