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VRS - Twitchy in a straight line


Foxy

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With my 35 mile journey home - mainly motorway, driving at 75-80 I managed around 42 mpg overall.

If I even *dream* of exerting some pressure on the loud pedal the mpg drops sharply.

Is this sounding familiar to TDi VRS owners?

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With my 35 mile journey home - mainly motorway, driving at 75-80 I managed around 42 mpg overall.

If I even *dream* of exerting some pressure on the loud pedal the mpg drops sharply.

Is this sounding familiar to TDi VRS owners?

Not a vRS, but yes! Drops rapidly once above 60/70 - a good inducement to stick to the limit ;)

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With my 35 mile journey home - mainly motorway, driving at 75-80 I managed around 42 mpg overall.

If I even *dream* of exerting some pressure on the loud pedal the mpg drops sharply.

Is this sounding familiar to TDi VRS owners?

I borrowed a TDi VRs for the day and noticed this to be the case too.

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The problem as you describe it, was identical to a problem I was having with my Vrs. Things got bad after I hit a pothole so deep, I though I had hit a brick wall!!. Driving around town, things just didnt "feel right". I do a lot of motorway driving and found I was never relaxed and constantly doing minor steering adjustments...as you say "twicthy".

Kwik Fit (yeah I know, but its a lease car...no choice!), realigned the tracking....no difference. Week later, asked them to check again...they did and said it was spot on. Still not driving right, they recommended a local Skoda dealer. They test drove it twice, check the tracking and said the was NO problem.

Loosing patience at this stage, I took it to Chemix who checked it on a Hunter Laser Chassis Alignment system (only £15 to check). Front left - RED, front right - RED, rear left - RED, rear right - GREEN...!!!!

5 minutes it took them to find the problem. Alignment was out, but only by what seems a minute amount, but way out compared with the tolernace.

Back on the Motorway.....hell what a difference. Doing a little over the national speed limit (!!), its as straight as a die.

Only got to sort out a really irritating vibration now...

Mark.

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The problem as you describe it, was identical to a problem I was having with my Vrs. Things got bad after I hit a pothole so deep, I though I had hit a brick wall!!. Driving around town, things just didnt "feel right". I do a lot of motorway driving and found I was never relaxed and constantly doing minor steering adjustments...as you say "twicthy".

Kwik Fit (yeah I know, but its a lease car...no choice!), realigned the tracking....no difference. Week later, asked them to check again...they did and said it was spot on. Still not driving right, they recommended a local Skoda dealer. They test drove it twice, check the tracking and said the was NO problem.

Loosing patience at this stage, I took it to Chemix who checked it on a Hunter Laser Chassis Alignment system (only £15 to check). Front left - RED, front right - RED, rear left - RED, rear right - GREEN...!!!!

5 minutes it took them to find the problem. Alignment was out, but only by what seems a minute amount, but way out compared with the tolernace.

Back on the Motorway.....hell what a difference. Doing a little over the national speed limit (!!), its as straight as a die.

Only got to sort out a really irritating vibration now...

Mark.

So were Kwik Fit using the wrong settings?, and if so did it come from the factory with the wrong settings?

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I'm no expert on this, but the tools Kwik Fit were using just wasn't accurate enough, and they only align the front wheels. I've attached part of the report I had, and you'll see they appear to very small adjustments. Notice the green blocks in the middle of the readouts. They represent the tolerance, so based on that its quite out. Also, if you think that a wheel running out by just 1 or 2 mm, over a mile thats pushing your wheels out by 28 feet (apparently!). It really did make all the difference to the car, especially high speeds, long distances.

19461.attach

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I'm no expert on this, but the tools Kwik Fit were using just wasn't accurate enough, and they only align the front wheels. I've attached part of the report I had, and you'll see they appear to very small adjustments. Notice the green blocks in the middle of the readouts. They represent the tolerance, so based on that its quite out. Also, if you think that a wheel running out by just 1 or 2 mm, over a mile thats pushing your wheels out by 28 feet (apparently!). It really did make all the difference to the car, especially high speeds, long distances.

Nice one, at least your happy. Nice to get the print out and see what was actually wrong.

Btw is there something about having a full tank (or half tank) of fuel in before doing these tests?

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  • 4 years later...

I've just had eibachs (20mm) & Koni FSDs + WALK & Whiteline front bushes + 24mm adjustable Whiteline rear anti rollbar fitted by AutoTechnica in Hull & while the handling on ordinary roads & bends is fantastic, in a straight line at speed on the motorway, I don't feel %100 confident so I have to get it sorted before August because I will be finding it's top speed in Germany. :sun:

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First thing - get your undertray back on. Aerodynamics are a HUGE part of it's job.

Secondly, if it's still twitchy, get it to a proper alignment place.

Only place I've ever been and felt confident with is East Grinstead Tyre Service.

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Is 4 years a record?

First thing - get your undertray back on. Aerodynamics are a HUGE part of it's job.

Er no.

Have you seen how much they move with only light pressure.

If it was an important aero part, it wouldn't have the edges and holes on it.

It's there to keep cack out of the engine bay more than anything else.

Edited by cheezemonkhai
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Er no.

Have you seen how much they move with only light pressure.

If it was an important aero part, it wouldn't have the edges and holes on it.

To be fair you are assuming it can only have an aerodynamic effect if it has air flowing over it but another very important effect is simply one of blocking disruptive airflow. With the air blocked there is no need for streamlined components.

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Is 4 years a record?

Er no.

Have you seen how much they move with only light pressure.

If it was an important aero part, it wouldn't have the edges and holes on it.

It's there to keep cack out of the engine bay more than anything else.

Also for drive by noise testing - the bug bare of car manufacturers. Whilst you won't tell any difference inside with it off the outside world does

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The problem as you describe it, was identical to a problem I was having with my Vrs. Things got bad after I hit a pothole so deep, I though I had hit a brick wall!!. Driving around town, things just didnt "feel right". I do a lot of motorway driving and found I was never relaxed and constantly doing minor steering adjustments...as you say "twicthy".

Kwik Fit (yeah I know, but its a lease car...no choice!), realigned the tracking....no difference. Week later, asked them to check again...they did and said it was spot on. Still not driving right, they recommended a local Skoda dealer. They test drove it twice, check the tracking and said the was NO problem.

Loosing patience at this stage, I took it to Chemix who checked it on a Hunter Laser Chassis Alignment system (only £15 to check). Front left - RED, front right - RED, rear left - RED, rear right - GREEN...!!!!

5 minutes it took them to find the problem. Alignment was out, but only by what seems a minute amount, but way out compared with the tolernace.

Back on the Motorway.....hell what a difference. Doing a little over the national speed limit (!!), its as straight as a die.

Only got to sort out a really irritating vibration now...

Mark.

The other day I went to get my Octy suspension aligned with Hunter equipment & I was told "no way, It sets suspension to manufacturers settings & with lowered suspension & walk, It's a no go" !!! :wall:

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The other day I went to get my Octy suspension aligned with Hunter equipment & I was told "no way, It sets suspension to manufacturers settings & with lowered suspension & walk, It's a no go" !!! :wall:

What a load of rubbish - for road set up (unless you've gone silly low) toe should be set up as per standard on front and toe on rear likewise.

A bit of toe out on the front makes steering better on fwd IMO but kills tyres inners quicker - but makes it twitcher at speed.

Camber will be different given the lowered height (increased negative) but there's nothing you can change about that.

Caster on the front you can't change with normal lower arms... So only thing which may be a bit questionable is rear caster? Again standard settings won't be that bad.

The negative camber will however make it a bit more twitchy over standard.

All a compromise I'm afraid

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