Repair kit 1K0 698 517 B (Â£129+VAT). Suitable as a replacement for the hydraulic blocks:
1K0 614 517 B, C, D, E, H, J, M, N, Q, T, AA, AB, AE, AF; 3T0 614 517, 3TO 614 517 A and 2K3 614 517
Access to VCDS or similar tool.
Pressure bleeding kit (e.g. Gunson's EazyBleed).
ESP light stays on irrespective of ESP switch position.
Open the braking Controller and go into Measurement Block 5 to monitor the brake pressure recorded by the G201 sensor. The value of the brake pressure should be proportional to the pressure on the brake pedal. When the brake lights just illuminate the value of the pressure shown in Measuring Block 5 should not be more than 4 Bar. If it is, then check the brake light switch and/or perform a 'Basic Setting' on the pressure sensor (see later). If the pressure reading is stuck at a high value, irrespective of the pressure on the brake pedal, then the G201 sensor has failed and you need to get the repair kit.
REPAIR OF ABS/ESP UNIT:
Disconnect battery earth lead and remove battery if it makes access to the ABS unit easier (depends on model).
Remove the electrical connector from the ABS unit.
Open the front-left and rear-right brake bleed nipples.
With a stick/pole wedge the brake pedal about 60mm down from its resting position (this is to close off the ports to the master cylinder).
Close the previously opened bleed nipples.
Take a picture/drawing of the locations of the brake pipes as they connect to the ABS unit.
Remove the brake pipes from the ABS unit - first the two pipes that enter horizontally and then the four pipes that enter vertically.
Using the bungs supplied with the kit, block off the ports in the ABS unit to avoid fluid spillage.
Pull upward and rotate the ABS unit out of its holder and remove from the car.
Now replace the hydraulic unit with the new one supplied in the repair kit - this is simple (just two long setscrews, 6Nm torque). Be sure to keep brake fluid away from the electical contacts. DO NOT separate the motor from the ABS unit!
With the new part fitted the ABS/ESP unit can be refitted into the car.
Refit the brake unions and refit the battery and earth lead.
Remove the stick from the brake pedal.
Connect VCDS and clear any fault codes.
Now use your pressure bleeder to 'pre-bleed' the hydraulics.
Firstly open both front bleed nipples and bleed simultaneously.
Then repeat at the rear and bleed both rear brakes simultaneously.
Using VCDS, connect to the braking controller. With NO PRESSURE on the brake pedal the pressure reading in Measurement Block 5 should be within the range +/- 3.8 Bar. If it is outside of that range then go into Measurement Block 66, login with code 40 168 and perform a zero-point calibration using the 'Basic Settings' option.
Finally bleed the brakes in the conventional manner (one brake at a time, FL, FR, RL, RR) to conclude the job and perform a road test.
IMAGES (from the Motor-talk.de forum)
Repair kit package label:
New hydraulic unit (still with protective packaging on):
Underside of the new hydraulic unit (packaging removed) - the two holes where the clamping setscrews pass through are visible:
Front of the new hydraulic unit:
Edited by Hauptmann, 10 February 2011 - 20:27.