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How to repair ESP/ABS fault with VAG repair kit

57 posts in this topic

This is not meant to be a full 'how to', but rather to give enough information to enable a competent DIY-er to decide whether or not to undertake repair of the ABS/ESP unit following a 'G201 sensor failure' in the ABS/ESP hydraulic unit. The information is taken from German forums and I've translated it into English. I assume that the repair kits sold in the UK will come with English instructions, so just the basics are given here...

[b]NEEDED:[/b]

Repair kit[b] 1K0 698 517 B[/b] (£129+VAT). Suitable as a replacement for the hydraulic blocks:

1K0 614 517 B, C, D, E, H, J, M, N, Q, T, AA, AB, AE, AF; 3T0 614 517, 3TO 614 517 A and 2K3 614 517

Access to VCDS or similar tool.
Pressure bleeding kit (e.g. Gunson's EazyBleed).

[b]DIAGNOSIS:[/b]

ESP light stays on irrespective of ESP switch position.
Connect VCDS.
Open the braking Controller and go into Measurement Block 5 to monitor the brake pressure recorded by the G201 sensor. The value of the brake pressure should be proportional to the pressure on the brake pedal. When the brake lights just illuminate the value of the pressure shown in Measuring Block 5 should not be more than 4 Bar. If it is, then check the brake light switch and/or perform a 'Basic Setting' on the pressure sensor (see later). If the pressure reading is stuck at a high value, irrespective of the pressure on the brake pedal, then the G201 sensor has failed and you need to get the repair kit.

[b]REPAIR OF ABS/ESP UNIT:[/b]

Disconnect battery earth lead and remove battery if it makes access to the ABS unit easier (depends on model).
Remove the electrical connector from the ABS unit.
Open the front-left and rear-right brake bleed nipples.
With a stick/pole wedge the brake pedal about 60mm down from its resting position (this is to close off the ports to the master cylinder).
Close the previously opened bleed nipples.
Take a picture/drawing of the locations of the brake pipes as they connect to the ABS unit.
Remove the brake pipes from the ABS unit - first the two pipes that enter horizontally and then the four pipes that enter vertically.
Using the bungs supplied with the kit, block off the ports in the ABS unit to avoid fluid spillage.
Pull upward and rotate the ABS unit out of its holder and remove from the car.
Now replace the hydraulic unit with the new one supplied in the repair kit - this is simple (just two long setscrews, 6Nm torque). Be sure to keep brake fluid away from the electical contacts. DO NOT separate the motor from the ABS unit!

With the new part fitted the ABS/ESP unit can be refitted into the car.
Refit the brake unions and refit the battery and earth lead.
Remove the stick from the brake pedal.

Connect VCDS and clear any fault codes.

Now use your pressure bleeder to 'pre-bleed' the hydraulics.
Firstly open both front bleed nipples and bleed simultaneously.
Then repeat at the rear and bleed both rear brakes simultaneously.

Using VCDS, connect to the braking controller. With NO PRESSURE on the brake pedal the pressure reading in Measurement Block 5 should be within the range +/- 3.8 Bar. If it is outside of that range then go into Measurement Block 66, login with code 40 168 and perform a zero-point calibration using the 'Basic Settings' option.

Finally bleed the brakes in the conventional manner (one brake at a time, FL, FR, RL, RR) to conclude the job and perform a road test.


[b]IMAGES[/b] (from the Motor-talk.de forum)

[b]Repair kit package label:[/b]

[img]http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/0/39/8794/26879533/p1010073-1753972718777253672.JPG[/img]
[b]
New hydraulic unit (still with protective packaging on):[/b]

[img]http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/0/39/8794/26879533/p1010071-1051807619992760661.JPG[/img]
[b]
Underside of the new hydraulic unit (packaging removed) - the two holes where the clamping setscrews pass through are visible:[/b]

[img]http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/0/39/8794/26879533/p1010074-7809447409641567445.JPG[/img]

[b]Front of the new hydraulic unit:[/b]

[img]http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/0/39/8794/26879533/p1010075-1044440619761706984.JPG[/img] Edited by Hauptmann
3 people like this

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Fair play, top man for creating this. My missus Leon FR TDI has this fault and so might have a go at this one in the not to distant future.

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:thumbup: Brill thanks for that, how is the 201 sensor fixed in the unit ? normally you would bleed brakes one at a time so is it normal to bleed our brakes this way eg 2 at a time ? cheers - Stuart

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[quote name='sparky2' timestamp='1297343161' post='2275879']
:thumbup: Brill thanks for that, how is the 201 sensor fixed in the unit ? normally you would bleed brakes one at a time so is it normal to bleed our brakes this way eg 2 at a time ? cheers - Stuart
[/quote]


The G201 sensor is a thin-film piezo-resistive pressure sensor integrated into the hydrualic block. It is not removable. The repair kit contains a replacement hydraulic block, complete with new sensor built into it.

VAG recommend bleeding the brakes two at a time (front pair, rear pair) when the system has been opended to air and a chamber is completely empty of fluid. They actually call this a 'pre bleed'.
Once the basic settings have been done via VCDS you then do the second ('normal') bleed mentioned at the end of my write-up - which, ideally, is in the order:

1 - Front left brake caliper
2 - Front right brake caliper
3 - Rear left brake caliper
4 - Rear right brake caliper

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Great write up - should be made a sticky [img]http://ww1.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0148-yes.gif[/img]
1 person likes this

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[quote name='dstev2000' timestamp='1297357878' post='2276191']
Great write up - should be made a sticky [img]http://ww1.briskoda.net/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon-0148-yes.gif[/img]
[/quote]

Agree - nice one Hauptman! :thumbup:

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Top tip to those who might try this. Before undoing the pipes one the unit wedge a bar or similar between the seat and the brake pedal to provide pressure. Then when you undo the pipes no fluid escapes. Then when you refit the new block all you have to do is a regular pressure bleed and no faffing about with VCDS doing an ABS bleed.

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Guys where can I buy the kit for 130 I've only seen I on eBay for over 200


Thanks pete

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Fantastic write up!

+1 for this becoming a sticky!

Also good news that there is a cheaper solution to the previous grand and a half fix, that was the only choice!

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[quote name='Petey099' timestamp='1308481634' post='2426085']
Guys where can I buy the kit for 130 I've only seen I on eBay for over 200


Thanks pete
[/quote]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/05-08-SKODA-OCTAVIA-A5-ABS-REPAIR-KIT-1K0698517B-/380343020758?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588e35ecd6

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Hi All,Hope this helps your cases,my Ocy Scout 09 has just been to the dealers and they have changed the ABS pump under warranty as they had an 'ABS check' notice from Skoda. cheers - Stuart

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Hope this helps some doing the repair. The instruction come in english and german and are very poor quality the pics are poor too...but here are the instructions.

Instructions came with ABS repair kit 1k0698517B.
All health and safety not included and individual should have the necessry training to carry such work and at your own risk. Supplied for info only not as a guide.

1. General Notes to the MK60-p ESC

The brake system is split diagonally. Brake boost is created from the vacuum servo booster. The Mk60 unit (HECU) consistes of the hydraulic control unit (HCU) and the electronic control unit (ECU). Seperation of the unit is only possible after removal of the MK60 unit.


2. General notes for removal.

The change of components is only permitted by qualified personnel with the assistance of the service and repair instructions of the OEM
Vehicle is standstill
Use on board diagnostics to find out whether the failure cause refers to a pressure sensor failure in the HCU (dtc 01435 069B) ***(i THINK THIS SHOULD BE G201)***
Take car of ESD (electro static discharge)
Pick spare parts out of package just before assembly
Incorrect assembly can result is negative performance of braking system.
Ensure absolute cleanliness when working.
Clean surface of ECU with mineral oil prior to work
Ensure no fluid enters the electrical connector
Dont use compressed air when the system is opened or move car
Electrical connectors at connector, pressure sensor and ECU as well as sealing elements must not be touched.
Remove all componenets that restrict acess to braking system.
Close all hydraulic ports immediately with appropriate caps after dissasembly of the ESC unit.
HECU assembly/diaasembly on work bench only.



3.Hydraulic-Electronic control unit removal

Switch off ignition and disconnect GND (earth) pole of battery.
Remove electronic connector by pulling out the lock on the connector and remove the connector.
Push down on brake pedal approx 60mm with a stick/bar or the proper brake depress tool. This closes the TMC central valves and stops fluid running out of the open system.
Connect bleed bottles to one front wheel and one rear wheel on the same side. Open the bleeder nipples to decrease pressure that was built up in the brake system before.
Identify the pipes and remove the brake lines leading to the TMC at HCU first. Close open ports with included caps immediately.
Identify the pipes and remove the brake lines to the brake circuits. Close ports with caps.
Loosen and remove screws securing the HCU in the ........ bracket(unreadable).
Remove complete unit from bracket.



4. Diassemble Electronic Control Unit

Loosen and remove both torx head screws. New ones inc in kit.
The pump is not connected anymore be careful
Hold tight the pump motor and HCU and remove the ECU (so basically you are removing the bit that never came with your repair kit 1k0698517B.
The pump motor adapter can be torn out of the electronic controller during dissasembly due to corrosion and remain in the valve block bore. In this case the complete HECU has to be exchanged
If the ECU has damaged contact pins (ECU connector DC motor contact pins) the ECU cannot be used and a complete HECU has to be exchanged



5 Prepare new ECU and new HCU for assembly


In a re-assembled ECU the pressure sensor contact may not be touched or damaged.
The housing edge of the pressure sensor also must not be damaged (sealing element)
No humidity or dirt are allowed to enter the ECU
Avoid ESD (electro-static discharge



6. Assemble ECU


Assemble used ECU and new HCU without canting.
Secure ECU to HCU with new torx screws 5.5+0.5Nm
(note HECU is not sealed before complete assembly)



7. HECU refitting


important- The port covers and the pump motor assembly aid of HCU should only be removed when the connecting pipe or brake line is ready to be fitted. This prevents dirt ingress and contamination of the brake system and reduces fluid loss.
Insert unit into the holding bracket and torque securing nuts to 8 + 2 Nm
Remove port covers and pump motor assembly aid and connect wheel circuit lines to valve block ensuring each one is in correct place.
Repeat process for master cylinder pipes. Ensure connection go on square to prevent cross threading
Torque pipes to 13-20Nm
Reconnect battery
Connect ECU harness and lock connector
Fill brake fluid resevoir to MAX with Dot 4 brake fluid and bleed vehicle as shown in workshope manual
Calibrate pressure sensor of ABS using Vag-com/VCDS
Switch on ignition and ABS and ESP warning lights should go out.
Clear the ESP fault using Vagcom/vcds and rescan for faults.
One final test drive make sure that min, one brake cycle was done with ABS control (pulsation in brake pedal must be felt)......I think this mean bleeding the ABS using Vagcom but my opinion only.)



8. Genral notes for assembly.


Only use Dot 4 brake fluid.
Subsequent to rework or repair of the brake system, completely check both the conventional and ABS parts for correct function according to workshop manual. Check hydraulic ports and connection for leakage.
(assembly and dissasembly of ECU and HCU only permitted for maximun of six times.)



This guide is for information and not as a description of how to carry out this repair.

I've added a few bits of grammar here and there.....I was never anygood at english anyway. If something does not compute let me know and I will check instructions again just incase I made a mistake. Most of this process is in elsawin if you have it. Edited by thirty3

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Anyone know where to buy the kit as searches are coming up blank? ebay listing above has ended and cant find one on ebay at all?

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[quote name='Jon06Vrs' timestamp='1311442223' post='2461696']
Anyone know where to buy the kit as searches are coming up blank? ebay listing above has ended and cant find one on ebay at all?
[/quote]

Have you tried your local VW/SEAT or Skoda dealership?
Give them the part number and they should be able to get one in for you.
Price isn't overly expensive.

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Abs-Pump-Repair-Kit-/160612976127?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item25654785ff thats one for your car

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just ordered one through my local dealer 155 quid all good thanks again

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very useful article, but can someone supply contact details for this repair kit at the sub 200 pound prices mentioned?

ros

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[quote name='ros' timestamp='1312986252' post='2479691']
very useful article, but can someone supply contact details for this repair kit at the sub 200 pound prices mentioned?

ros
[/quote]

Difficult.
VAG put the price of the "fix kit" up a few weeks ago.
So the sub-£200 price is a little harder to find now.

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the local vw, seat and skoda dealers are all quoting £245.40 incl vat for this kit, thats one hell of an increase!

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There were still some available on ebay at £150 until a couple of days ago, they've now gone up to £207: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/05-08-SKODA-OCTAVIA-A5-ABS-REPAIR-KIT-1K0698517B-/380357053215?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588f0c0b1f

I think at this price you should still be fighting hard to get Skoda to cover 100% of the costs as it makes even less sense for them to be resisting now the price has dropped so much from the original ~£1500.

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Many thanks to the initiator of this thread; it has saved me a fortune and resolved my frustration at the traction control light being permanently on.
Just to add my experiences, my car is a 2006 1.9tdi 4x4 octavia, with 75000 miles on the clock. When i got it 6mths ago all was well, but for the past month the light has been on (but the brakes have felt fine).

There is several options for purchasing a replacement pump unit. BBA Reman, Sinspeed and ECU testing all do reconditioned ones, at a reasonable price (starting at about £165 ish to redo your existing one, with a few days turn around to about £250 to send you a reconditioned one off the shelf straight away, but requiring your old one back on exchange.
Being a bit cautious, due to reading a lot of comments stating this or that pump ref number isn't compatible, i opted to go straight to the main dealer, in Bradford, and let their 'parts' computer tell me which kit will do.

For my original part number IK0614517AB, they confirmed that the replacement kit Ik0698517B is the one, and quoted a price of £174.64 plus vat. This is for a brand new unit, the alloy hydraulic bit, with a new electric motor. It is also possible to get the electronic black bit from them, but this is about £700, and isn't the bit that usually fails, so be careful removing it! Besides i am led to believe that if you changed this bit, then it would need coding in to the car using VAGCOM. By using your existing one, this isn't needed.
Follow the instructions posted on this earlier post and you can't go wrong. The instructions it comes with are indeed poorly copied/badly edited, so best print this forums one out, which is clearer.

For clarity, unconnecting and removing the battery, air intake and battery tray is neccesary for access, and doesn't create any recoding problems. To best get the pump out, remove it on its whole bracket complete, by undoing the two nuts which attach the pump/bracket to the chassis leg, after cracking the pump/brake pipe unions. It then comes out easily. (Initially i tried removing it off its bracket via the 2 10mm small bolts, but this is far too difficult access wise).
Once fitted, run the engine to activate the master cylinder and properly bleed all the brakes, front ones first. Throughout this your dashboard will be lit up with warning lights like a christmas tree but don't worry about this. Once this is done, test the brake pedal for firmness and after several metres of driving, provided you have bled it right, fitted it right etc, the computer will self reset the warning lights. Mine had cancelled them as i turned the car around, outside the house!.

I was spun a lot of guff by local garages about needing VAGCOM then to 'purge' the system or cancel the lights etc. This is not neccesary, if you are trying to rectify the G201 Brake Pressure sender 1 fault...this repair will have sorted it. I did get it read though initially just to confirm the right fault codes. Local garages quoted about 3 hours labour, Skoda allow 2 hours. I did it myself and think that 3 hours is realistic for a DIY person and i used a friend to assist as the pedal man, re bleeding.
Another point is don't even think about trying to self mend the alloy pump unit. Whilst i am confident with most spannering type jobs, basically these are a sealed callibrated 'black box' thing, so leave the experts to do their magic on them. But the fitment is fairly straight forward.

The skoda dealership service department themselves gave me no assistance re any potential 'recall' and just stated that to get to the bottom of it i would initially have to pay them their obligatory £70 or £80 diagnostic fee, and take it from there. However they parts counter person was very helpful, so full credit to her.
To summarise, if your traction control light has come on, get the fault code read locally (garages charge £10 to £30ish to read it, and if its the G201 code and you are mechanically competent, then do it yourself, save a lot on the labour cost and you won't need a further code reset.

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TPS do the part as well....last time I asked I think it was £143 or £147 inc VAT.

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Are the parts/repair kit the same for a Post-2008 Octavia as all the kits on Ebay I've seen mention 'Octavia 2004-2008' ? Or do the Post-2008 Octavia's have a different version of ESP instead of the MK60 Teves ?

Cheers Edited by Ultima

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