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Stupidly this morning I wasn't concentrating at the fuel station. I picked up the wrong vpower pump at the shell garage and put 20 quids worth of diesel in. I should have known something was wrong when refueling was slow. Naively I thought I had broken the filler neck when shoving the pipe in. I should have relooked at the vpower sticker on the pump. My paranoia over the evap canister got the better of me. I could have sworn I did relook at the pump. I obviously didn't see the diesel sign. What a tool. I paid for the fuel and drove four miles. I already had 80 miles worth of petrol in the car to start with. I went about my business and got back in the car about an hour later. It wouldn't start. I pushed the button to start it, and it started, then cut out, with a message on the dash saying 'please start the car manually'. I tried one more time, and it did the same again. I left it 5 minutes, went on google and I couldn't find the answer. So I had 2 more attempts, and then the penny dropped. I looked at the fuel receipt on the passenger seat. Clear as day - Shell vpower diesel. That reminds me - I need a swear box for the car. I called the AA and they sent out the Fuel Doctor. 2 hours I had to wait. He shoved a flexible metal tube down the fuel filler neck and siphoned off all the diesel. He disconnected the big pipe to the airbox, and he disconnected the fuel line to the hpfp and connected that to a tall plastic container/pump, so he could draw all the fuel out. Once all the diesel had been sucked from the fuel tank, he tipped some petrol in from a jerry can. He squirted some easy start in the air filter tube and then got in the car, pressing the start button a few times to prime the fuel pumps. I could see fuel being pushed out into the container. The fuel line was reconnected to the hpfp and he made 2 attempts to start the car. The first one immediately cut out, but the 2nd attempt ran for a few seconds before cutting out. I got in the car and tried to start it, whilst he was squirting easy start in the air filter pipe. Eventually it ran smoothly, after i'd upped the revs. The air filter pipework was put back together again, and the doctor sat in my car for a few minutes giving it some revs. There was a little black smoke coming out of the exhaust to start with, but this eventually went completely. 200 quid lighter, I got my car back and drove home without issue. I think I've been lucky. And that's what the doctor said too. I hope someone finds this info useful, because when I needed it, I couldn't find anything on the 'net relating to an idiot putting diesel in his petrol skoda. And it was all fixed with the simplest of tools. I feel like I've had my pants pulled down and been slapped.

Finally got around to installing the new steering wheel. I know it’s more of a vanity item, since there was nothing wrong with the old one, but the Sportline steering wheel does feel quite a bit nicer to me. All in all, a surprisingly easy swap, especially with the maintenance manual ready for consultation.

@tintinandcharlie Roughly speaking, anything that can be proven in a court of law is very safe to post. We've had a good run of informing members, there is a notorious superb doing the rounds. I'd start with posting the reg and the faults you perceive, or why you walked away. Another member might decide they are happy with those for the price etc. I'd leave off anything about the seller, as per my above comment about proof. You can of course share your feelings, they are yours. At the end of the day we're all here to share and help each other as owners or potential owners. HTH.

Morning folks, Just passing on a couple of tips relating to part numbers; for those of us without full access to ETKA. Apart from the fairly ubiquitous ETKA-like sites such as 7zap.com and nemigaparts.com, I've come across a couple of other handy sites. The first one; oemwolf.com will tell you about whether (and by what) any given part number has been superseded. You just put the part number - stripped of any/all spaces - in the search box and click on "Find it" (enter/return doesn't work). It'll then tell you about superseding part numbers, sometimes in a seemingly never-ending recursion. The other site, which I just happened upon this morning, can let you go the other way - backwards in time - and tell you previous revisions of a given part number. Here you put your part number in the search box, click "Search" and then click on the "OEM part numbers" tab just above the blue "Contact us" banner. You will be given the anteceding part numbers. https://www.oemvwshop.com/ Both sites can be very useful. For example where ebay has no offerings for a recent part number, but knowing what that part number was before its latest version may open the search net much wider.

I went for the low torque stage 1 apr map. It wasn't long before I wanted more. Eventually I did get the higher torque stage 1 for free, but you need to run higher octane fuel to get the benefit. If you go apr, and decide to go stage 2, if you buy the apr downpipe, the stage 2 map is free.

I ordered it from maxidily.cz While their website didn’t offer shipping to my location (Belgium), a quick back and forth email exchange AMS everything was settled. Great customer experience. The part number of the steering wheel I installed is this: 3V0419091AFBGW

Worth a look ... I've been using Nokian Tyres for almost 20 years ... TBH find them hard to beat. Have also used these on a Yeti and found them excellent. https://www.nokiantyres.com/tyres/by-tire-size/all-weather-tires/?s=225-50-17

Hi, Thanks Expatman Yes we're in keep the Yeti club. It sailed through the MOT with no issues. Because of the extra hygiene involved due to the virus the courtesy car was an additional £15 we live 10.5 miles from the dealer but because the courtesy Fabia was running on empty I put £10 of petrol in it; I had to be very careful to ensure I put petrol in the Fabia after four years of adding diesel to our Yeti. So the courtesy car added £25 to the bill but no way am I complaining because to hire a car for a day would cost a great deal more. At just under £300 including the MOT I'm more than happy to pay this for another full year of happy Yeti ownership; I think next year will be a lot more expensive with possibly a timing belt and water pump replacement but again I won't be complaining. Our Yeti is always main dealer serviced. Our Yeti was a pre reg with a big discount it being brand new with zero mileage; it's roughly worth £8,500 now (Parkers) so over four years depreciation has been £2,625 per year which is very reasonable for such a lovely car. Obviously the longer we keep it depreciation will drop even further but will reach a point when depreciation on it means nothing but we'll still have a lovely car. Our neighbour directly across the street has owned a small Vauxhall Agila for at least 20 years and it's still in daily use always parked on the driveway so I'm sure our Yeti has many years pleasure still in it. We put away money in our car fund so always have funds to buy another new car whenever we decide to trade in. Most of you reading this will know exactly what I'm on about regarding owning a Yeti. Our's is the SE L 2.0L diesel so has full leather interior which I treat a couple of times a year with leather balm. Since 1990 we've traded in before 3 years; there are YouTube videos showing million mile cars still in perfect condition and even this; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AL49FBPqcdY As I said earlier it's the electronics I worry about more than bodywork or mechanicals; I dislike the stop/start so this is switched off for every journey however short. last year we had four Michelin cross climate tyres fitted at £600 these fitted on our driveway and of course it didn't snow? Out of interest I've wanted to own a small pick up truck and I've been fascinated by Tuk-Tuk's for quite some time; I could buy a new Tuk and use it to cart stuff around saving our Yeti for best. My lovely wife says she wouldn't ride in a Tuk but no problem if I want a Tuk pick up as a wedding anniversary prezzie. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lumRuxkFJ8I Before buying the Yeti we looked at Toyota pickup trucks and although I'd like one of these I wouldn't want one as daily transport; the Yeti turns into a big van but with a Tuk I could carry board materials and lengths of timber etc. My only problem is parking; we have a large site but its steep; our garage is now my workshop and the Yeti sleeps out; I've been wandering around with tape measure? I've rambled on enough but thought I'd share my story. Kind regards, Colin.

theres plenty of threads along the line of "i just spotted this for sale" - link to advert - " going for a look and a drive on Tueaday, will let you all know" roll forward to Tuesday... " drove it, and im very disappointed.. idle felt really rough and you cant see the rust starting around the sills in photos but its there, wont be taking it any farther" no issue with you doing similar

I could only see that being a concern if the OP claimed something that was untrue. If he simply couched it in terms like "it seemed to me that the X was very Y; you may want to look at that carefully if considering purchase", I can't imagine any car dealer doing anything worse than an empty threat of action.

Really enjoying the car now, little glitch on it lately (im not one to only show the good stuff as you can tell) was filling up the washer fluid and thought there was a bolt missing from the downpipe but since its always had a Vband before i kept doubting myself so fired a quick email to darkside just to check and they said there should be one there and looks like it had fell out so would send me a conversion kit to studs and nuts instead which they posted out on tuesday at no cost so top customer service as usual. Then last night was driving to a friend to visit them on the motorway, no high speeds or full throttle runs just crusing then put on a little throttle to overtake someone and i heard a ping then the car got really loud. Got off the motorway and pulled over and the other bolts had came out and the downpipe had fell off. Had to then drive it to my mechanic up here to drop it off at his house which involved driving with all the windows down so i didnt gas myself to death 🤣 killer of a headache today i can tell you that. new parts arrived today and managed to source a gasket locally as thankfully thats a factory part All fixed again and new pads fitted, EBC Bluestuff an upgrade from the yellowstuff pads, never had an issue with yellowstuff but want to try these as this gets to higher speeds alot quicker Absolutely loving the car now, trying to get into TOTB to get runs at elvington but they aren't replying to messages and also noticed that Terminal Velocity and doing some rolling half mile events this weekend to. Has seen 163mph on the clocks so far.

You’ve got the same problem as the rest of us on this forum. Welcome to the “I will have to keep my Yeti Club”!!

Hi, What a dilemma now Skoda no longer manufacture the excellent loveable Yeti. This morning I took our Yeti in for it's four year service with 24,400 miles on the clock. Before the Yeti we owned a Fabia Monte Carlo for two years which we liked but the Yeti was a transformation. Having run our diesel Yeti for fours years it felt very strange indeed to drop down into a Fabia courtesy car on a 69 plate this being a petrol. The difference between our Yeti and this Fabia is amazing; the Fabia feels incredibly low so low I thought all tyres were flat and I bumped my head as I dropped into it; with low petrol icon glaring at me and the message saying this Fabia was due a service I pulled away. On acceleration the exhaust note was quite pronounced and I've never driven a car with so much hand brake lever travel; I was glad to return home but I'll be gladder still to collect our lovely Yeti later this afternoon. I've put petrol in the Fabia. Normally we trade in at three years or less but looking around at all the modern clones there's nothing to tempt us to let the Yeti go; we've decided to keep the Yeti unless it starts to run up lots of repair bills; we just love the Yeti so much and it's got street presence which is increasingly rare. I'm sure Yeti's will be future useable classics unless the electronics kill them which is now a major concern with any modern car and it's getting worse as more and more electronics are added with each passing year. Our Yeti is the Adblue model so only £30 per year to tax and the insurance (LV) has just been renewed at £500 with a clean driving licence. Kind regards, Colin.

I think the remap aspect is irrelevant. The dtuk pedal box only "remaps" the throttle pedal to take out the slack in the initial movement of the pedal. The controller allows you to select a less sporty or more sporty mode, but also allows you to switch the pedal box off. It's like a rheostat for the pedal, but does not affect any other aspect of the engine management. Make sense?

Another poor run. 😉 Thanks AG Falco

I’d be wary of Carista as you have no idea what changes are being made to your coding, nor any way of logging the changes. On that same vein, I’d also suggest not using the OBDEleven “apps” to perform changes. Spend a little bit more on the Pro pack and do the coding changes yourself following the guides available on this forum.

Life is short right? I mean I am being honest because what's best for my goals and requirements might not be the best for every other owner so I need to make recommendations as objectively as possible, not simply to defend my own choices! You don't get that often when asking around for advice and it's annoying. I believe their low torque file is meant mainly for the manual transmission cars which suffer from clutch slippage even on stage 1 (not even an option on the Superb though) and the "high torque" is essentially what every other tuner runs so he should be fine with it. Imo one should run these engines on 98 even stock, no discussion when mapped be it high, low or lower torque. Yes they will work on 95 but when you break down all factors involved, 95 is a false economy. The free stage 2 remap from APR when buying their downpipe is a very nice condition actually. REVO merely offer 70% discount, which on a say 700EUR worth of remap, leaves a 210EUR rest to be paid which annoys the heck out of me. You are a returning customer paying full price for their hardware so adjusting the software should be free.

There’s diesel ones too 🤣

https://www.mrjww.com Just put the front reg plate up on the dash, nobody will care! https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/two-expensive-sports-cars-welsh-18615194 It will polish out.. https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/porsche-911-crash-tonyrefail-teenager-18613571 'We' could maybe get some dust caps 'free' at a tyre and exhaust centre, (or buy some naff yellow ones to match the key fob.) and 'we' could maybe get the bird crap and dirt of the exhaust before 'we' have the car to a Porsche workshop so that 'we' can pay them to service it which is who do it and not actually 'we' or 'i' doing a hands turn. Then maybe read the Owners Manual & Reset the TPMS and get a valve cover on the back right!....'We' will be sorted then.

Isn't copying the sincerest form of flattery?

That its a Yaris & that Skoda currently has no performance hatchback in the market to rival others.

Me too, a 2.0 TDI superb arriving soon but looked at the new octavia and as above, you can't have the 2.0 TDi 150 with a manual. They do have a gearbox/clutch that can handle the torque as I am about to get one delivered in the Superb. I am also surprised that the smaller engines have gone.

+1 wise words ...and I don't regret having remapped it with 1,500 km on the clock!

I thought they did do a 1.9pd TDI in one of the MKii models. think it is a pd105 which might not be the strongest for modding. 5 speed as far as i'm aware eg.

http://briskoda.net/forums/forum/345-cycling-club

I did that to a very small impact damage on a tyre on my daughter's previous car, there had been a comment in the MOT - so I glued it back down before it git ripped off, in that case there was nothing but rubber at the "base" of that crack/tear so after checking and cleaning it properly I glued it with a suitable rubber glue, I've forgotten which type/brand - and applied pressure "somehow" for a few hours, again forgotten how. Next MOT, no comment.

I think age and miles, inc usage has a lot to do with it. My 2005 Octy 2 with 246k on it has done 210k of motorway miles in all climates. The bottom is looking really rusty loads of components like the rear arms. Body rust where the body meets the rear bumper. Sills rusting in places presume where the bitumen has been compromised in a few places. Car looks a lot nicer now @vborovic

https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/hot-tips-assessing-cuts-in-tyres/ Read this first. 😀 Thanks AG Falco

Someone at work was complaining at the 25 MPG he was getting. I said I would struggle get twice that with my car and he didn't believe me. I then said I could do better. He bet me I couldn't. And so it went on, Challenge set. 😁 Thanks AG Falco

Ending up with "accidental" good fuel economy can be almost addictive - my wife got bored/annoyed with me getting excited about passing the 66MPG figure over a 20 mile journey average.

My apologies, my bad. No excuse except decrepitude and mislaid glasses 🥺

This confused me on my son's Fabia 2. That had no A/C and the G65 VCDS reading was zero. Caused me to waste effort changing the sensor, control module and still getting a zero reading. All the car needed was a re-gas and then the G65 reading was about 5. The A/Cs been fine for couple of years since that re-gas. So I can confirm no gas gives a zero VCDS G65 Reading.

Just make sure to do proper oil changes, with the correct grade, at the correct time. Also, keep the coolant fresh. It may need changing more frequently in that climate. Go by the book or check with the local VW/Skoda dealership.

Cross climate or vector 4 seasons.

Vredestein Quatrac 5 205/70R15 96T https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=hJyTPQR6YJWkDMEH.110.928710637&sowigan=GAN&Breite=205&Quer=70&Felge=15&kategorie=6&Ang_pro_Seite=20&weiter=20&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=C-C-70-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-281259 Alcar 7755 6Jx15 ET43 5/112 57.1 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750637?search=ALCAR Rim Rims (7755) 205/70R15 215/60R16 225/50R17 All these tyre sizes are interchangeable. 15" tyres will only fit the Yeti if you have the 288mm diameter front discs. The 1.2TSI is one of the lower powered Yeti's, so I expect that it is fitted with 288mm diameter front discs and therefore 15" wheels should clear the front brake calipers. Good quality 205/70R15 tyres are much cheaper than the other two sizes and give a more comfortable ride as well as more mpg. All of these three tyre sizes have the same outside diameter so the gearing won't change whatever size you choose. 205/70R15 is not a standard tyre size on the Yeti. It may not be legal in some countries like Germany that have very strict laws on the fitment of non-standard tyre sizes.

2000 or so miles done on mine. Currently enjoying switchbacks in the Alps😁. No issues. Original plastic end thingies.

Another double exposure..

There's nothing to worry about but if it worries you then don't monitor the oil temperature since there is no action you can take and the sensor may not necessarily be very accurate anyway.

Hi Hope everyone is well, just an update to let you know what was wrong, after fitting a new N75 valve it still did not work, so i did a boost pressure test that was ok then i had the car de-carbonised and that did not work. so out of sheer desperation i got the new MAF changed for another new original MAF and that was it!. As MicMac suggested the NEW one was faulty all that for a faulty new part never mind it's sorted now. Thank you to everyone for your help and stay safe. Steve.

This is a Ferrari that i could happily live with.

Well the slow boat finally arrived today and i owe rusty a huge thanks and a beer if our paths ever cross. After a few messages and a firmware update still didn't resolve the issue, rusty said he thought it could be the radio board...... with nothing much to lose, i ordered This from aliexpress and waited in hope. Arrived today, followed some hard drive replacement guide and swapped out the board. The great news is, i now have audio from my stereo again Many thanks rusty!

Yes, you need a 7 pin memory mirror motor pinned into the door controllers and coded to work. I’ve now done it on my car and will be fitting another pair of folding mirrors with reverse drop memory for someone this week.

You may struggle with much more than 40mpg on motorway journeys if you are heavy with the right foot and do 70mph. I've done a few long runs, 70mph most of the way and depending on how hilly it is, got between 42 and 46mpg. But that was making an effort to see what it did. I've also got over 50mpg at 50mph However the reality is, with anything resembling traffic, hills, the odd stretch when you take advantage of finally getting a clear road etc, you are likely to be high 30s. I only do 10miles to work, of which about 6 is motoway, albeit the M27 and I probably get 29-35 depending on the time of year. Well, I now get 10000000mpg as my commute involves me walking into my study and not starting the engine as I am WFH.

Ah ok - I'd expect to see upwards of 40Mpg on a motorway trip - though I admit I can be fairly robust with the loud peddle at times myself. Nice extras... finding a car with that many these days in the TSI seems near on impossible....or very very expensive.

I am entirely with Octy0GG - I am struggling to work out what to get next. My current car is a 63 reg Octavia 2.0TDi 150PS 4x4 and I love it to bits, but although it is surprisingly rapid I am tempted by a 190PS new one when they eventually arrive. But I am not keen on a DSG. The main question I have not been able to answer when I have driven DSGs is how you use the gearbox to balance the car in a corner. For me this is the most important aspect of a manual gearbox when pressing on - dropping down from 6th to 4th when approaching a bend enables you to use the accelerator to keep the pressure on the suspension, keeping it flat. Without this it's much harder to drive as smoothly when going reasonably fast cross- country. I know this is possible in theory with a DSG by putting it into manual mode but it just doesn't feel the same at all. Can anyone enlighten me on whether this is something I will adapt to, or do most people just let the gearbox do what it wants to do and accept that they body waves around a bit in corners as a result?

Assuming your car colour is black you want parts 24 & 25 from here, available from here and here.

Skoda needs to get the Average Co2 g/km low and the WLTP / RDE2 figures where they want them so are going to offer the cars that can get the results under the tests so what they can offer is limited or they will have to pay the cost of the high emission vehicles, even if in the real world they are no high emission emitting. So DSG's. Light Hybrids, Plug in Hybrids and eventually EV's.

I understand what you're saying being a lifelong fan of manual gearboxes. However the clutch went on my manual 11,000 mile 2014 FL Superb diesel and it if hadn't been covered under warranty I was looking at a bill north of £1,000 to fix it. In 2016 I bought a 1.4TSi ACT manual Superb which was nice to drive and very economical (easy 50mpg and 800 mile range) however it was boring. That was replaced by another manual Octavia Vrs245 very highly spec with wheels you would hate 19" with 225/35 rubber band tyres. Firm ride yes good fun absolutely but traction issues particularly on wet roads made me decide to have 2 things I thought I would hate. A DSG (7 speed) and 4WD Superb but much to my surprise this 2019 car does everything brilliantly. It is very safe and secure on a wet road just puts the power down (even going from a standard 283to stage 1 360bhp) and it is still huge inside with a massive boot but the biggest surprise to me has been the 39.11mpg average over 5,700 miles since I bought it used last December. One final point having alternated between Octavia and Superb the material quality on the Superb is at the same level as an Audi or BMW whereas the Octavia is not quite a match for a Golf but way better than a Focus, so it really depends on what you need. Manuals are a dying breed like diesels unfortunately due to tax changes and petrol being cheaper than diesel plus the added cost of Adblue these days. Our last 4 petrol cars have proven to be very economical if driven sensibly with a 1.2TSi manual Rapid hitting 66mpg, the 1.4TSi manual Superb 64mpg and wife's current car 1.5TSi manual (yes we had some issues with skippy until the software update fixed it) Karoq that staggered me with a 66mpg recently. Even the Octavia Vrs245 manual managed 50mpg and my current 272 Superb all wheel drive and 1,627kg managed a decent 49mpg.

Just realised that I hadn't posted the photos after the obligatory lockdown detailing session! Enjoy 😎

hi lads n lasses, just a quick update with pics. i cleaned all the brakes, wheel arches and resealed the rims again now it looks even better, well chuffed with the results, didn't go mad and take them to bits just painted where you can see bought some stuff to clean my seats, gave the carpets a clean a few weeks ago but the seats didn't come up well so i have bought a couple of brush attachments for my drill to agitate the material better and maybe lift the grime out. will post pics afterwards passed mot last week and had climate regassed as i am not sure if it has been done or not. take care everyone in the mad times