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Stupidly this morning I wasn't concentrating at the fuel station. I picked up the wrong vpower pump at the shell garage and put 20 quids worth of diesel in. I should have known something was wrong when refueling was slow. Naively I thought I had broken the filler neck when shoving the pipe in. I should have relooked at the vpower sticker on the pump. My paranoia over the evap canister got the better of me. I could have sworn I did relook at the pump. I obviously didn't see the diesel sign. What a tool. I paid for the fuel and drove four miles. I already had 80 miles worth of petrol in the car to start with. I went about my business and got back in the car about an hour later. It wouldn't start. I pushed the button to start it, and it started, then cut out, with a message on the dash saying 'please start the car manually'. I tried one more time, and it did the same again. I left it 5 minutes, went on google and I couldn't find the answer. So I had 2 more attempts, and then the penny dropped. I looked at the fuel receipt on the passenger seat. Clear as day - Shell vpower diesel. That reminds me - I need a swear box for the car. I called the AA and they sent out the Fuel Doctor. 2 hours I had to wait. He shoved a flexible metal tube down the fuel filler neck and siphoned off all the diesel. He disconnected the big pipe to the airbox, and he disconnected the fuel line to the hpfp and connected that to a tall plastic container/pump, so he could draw all the fuel out. Once all the diesel had been sucked from the fuel tank, he tipped some petrol in from a jerry can. He squirted some easy start in the air filter tube and then got in the car, pressing the start button a few times to prime the fuel pumps. I could see fuel being pushed out into the container. The fuel line was reconnected to the hpfp and he made 2 attempts to start the car. The first one immediately cut out, but the 2nd attempt ran for a few seconds before cutting out. I got in the car and tried to start it, whilst he was squirting easy start in the air filter pipe. Eventually it ran smoothly, after i'd upped the revs. The air filter pipework was put back together again, and the doctor sat in my car for a few minutes giving it some revs. There was a little black smoke coming out of the exhaust to start with, but this eventually went completely. 200 quid lighter, I got my car back and drove home without issue. I think I've been lucky. And that's what the doctor said too. I hope someone finds this info useful, because when I needed it, I couldn't find anything on the 'net relating to an idiot putting diesel in his petrol skoda. And it was all fixed with the simplest of tools. I feel like I've had my pants pulled down and been slapped.

Morning folks, Just passing on a couple of tips relating to part numbers; for those of us without full access to ETKA. Apart from the fairly ubiquitous ETKA-like sites such as 7zap.com and nemigaparts.com, I've come across a couple of other handy sites. The first one; oemwolf.com will tell you about whether (and by what) any given part number has been superseded. You just put the part number - stripped of any/all spaces - in the search box and click on "Find it" (enter/return doesn't work). It'll then tell you about superseding part numbers, sometimes in a seemingly never-ending recursion. The other site, which I just happened upon this morning, can let you go the other way - backwards in time - and tell you previous revisions of a given part number. Here you put your part number in the search box, click "Search" and then click on the "OEM part numbers" tab just above the blue "Contact us" banner. You will be given the anteceding part numbers. https://www.oemvwshop.com/ Both sites can be very useful. For example where ebay has no offerings for a recent part number, but knowing what that part number was before its latest version may open the search net much wider.

Hi all, Im after some advice opinions. I have had my Sportline 280 for 12 months and love it coming from an RS Octavia. I installed a BMS pedal tuner straight away upon purchase of the car, this made a huge difference. Im now looking to put some type of tune on the car and am weighing up the JB4 over APR stage 1 low torque. Im not interested in track days or drag strips, but just want a bit more for the Q car feel. I have priced up the two here in Australia ( Perth) and JB4 with blue tooth adaptor and freight from US is about $1000. APR tune is $1300, so not a lot in it when you factor in the JB4 self install. From a warranty issue im on the car, not to concerned as both are tried and proven products with safety parameters built in. Would like to drive a car that has either but thats not an option so I thought i would post here. My car and my Wifes Kodiaq Sport line below.

Another poor run. 😉 Thanks AG Falco