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I done a photo It's best to click on and open it that way as the image is a lot sharper

I agree with Pete, but then I would, he always seems to know what he's talking about 👍.

Although she was obviously hedging her bets and branching out, this isn't strictly a petrol engine thing, or even a green thing .... er, in the EV sense. I think you can get great satisfaction pootling along in a petrol engined car, well below the speed limits. Some of my happiest memories were going slowly in a V8 TVR (top burble) and an MG Midget (top down). It's not all about speed for me. I've had several little Fiats that you had to rev the bezeesus off to get going, but they were great fun and had great character. Many electric cars have speed, but they somehow leave me cold. It's a bit like 'meatless' meat substitutes. In isolation, they are fine, quite pleasant even and you can't argue their green credentials, but once you have had a real bacon sandwich... well there's no going back.

Just got back from a car show and apart from there not being any EVs on show (it was a supercar show though, so not that many qualify yet), the ones driving to and from the event were all giving it 'tippy toes' driving, unlike the petrol heads. Not saying the young thrusters driving was exemplary, of course - it wasn't, but here does seem to be a different mindset. The friend and colleague with the Mustang just told me of a typical tale of charging woe, driving from the North West to Norfolk recently. I'm sure things will eventually improve once more high speed chargers are freely available, but I am 100% not getting one until that extra infrastructure is in place. I like my colleagues, rely on having a licence and several of those people now have EVs in the family as a second car, they simply can't use it very often for work and none drive in an 'enthusiastic' manner in them. That's fine with me, some people enjoy a spirited drive and some don't, there is no shame in driving with a weather eye on range. In fact, I often hear EV drivers talking about how they maximise range and they genuinely get enjoyment out of hypermiling. Perhaps it's the new thing? Car forums will be populated with members talking about how they hypermile, rather than their latests decat and ECU tune? It would certainly spare us from the backfiring which seems to be all the rage these days. I can stare at batteries and electric motors all day at work, and run my electric toothbrush if I want to hear electrical things in action, but the visceral thrills of ICE cars is a much more emotive thing and I will never pay money to go look at electric cars at a show. I'd rather go to a tool shop and ask to view their Black and Deckers. To hear the Aventador SVJ having a bit of a rev at the show was wonderful, if a little worrying that it might not have been warmed up properly, but my definition of fun in a car currently doesn't include EVs. Splashing the cash isn't even an option for me, if you are referring to Petrol/diesel costs? I could have bought a more economical car, but the fuel costs are secondary to being able to get to and from work.

Nice moon last night.............

Seems likely that internal resistance is the parameter that makes a difference. Affects the voltage available when under full load. Unloaded voltage doesn't tell you about this.

Opell Manta 2.0 GTE. Pretty car. I love all cars., the ugly ones too, Dacia, Skodas, everything except the Fiat Multipla. Example picture similar to mine. Slippery shape, vague-ish instrumentation could show over 130 mph, not bad for a mere 110 hp but it was slipper and light. True top speed more like 120 and acceleration about 8 seconds to 60 mph. Looked good, related to the early ie mk1 Cavalier, so front engine and rear wheel drive, fun in slip conditions like the MK 1 and 2 Escorts.

This could be an interesting thread... I went shopping the other day to Chesterfield from Sheffield (easier to get to the retail park there from where I live) and we took the Swift as we're trying to use the kodiaq as little as possible given the cost of fuel. As we headed off I actually said to SWMBO that with me now working from home most days and not out on site much we could probably manage with a small EV and she agreed. However I do love the Swift's offbeat triple thrum, it's hybrid torque and nippiness and it's great handling so even if we could manage I don't think I'm quite there yet... but I'm certainly moving closer than I've ever been before. What I will struggle with is the sense of connection, the skill involved in manual gear changes and that feeling of lightness you only get with something like the Swift or MX5. I absolutely hate the thought of nearly 2 tonnes or more of car... It goes against my efficient engineering mantra. Oh and just for the record the Swift did there and back at over 70mpg...

I hadn't even considered the warm beer conudrum.

It's just the Welshman that is an embarressment, he just thinks he's a funny comedian, asks inappropriate questions and then buts in when someone who has genuine knowledge asks a question with some inane comments and you can see the face of the team principal or driver "who is this idiot"

I learned how to become a Common Rail diesel Expert! MY12 Yeti SE 4WD Tdi is now healthy and smoke free. Fault finding was a journey of patience with some wrong turns and a few self inflicted mistakes. I'll contribute my rough notes in case anybody else has similar diesel engine problems: 1. Working on a 2l common rail diesel isn't easy. Removing parts can be difficult and expensive if things don't go to plan. Start by understanding the possible problems, causes, and plan to do checks and tests which avoid removing parts. 2. Smoke can be one of 3 kinds or a mixture: Black smoke = Excessive diesel or insufficient air, Blue smoke = Oil burn, white + blue smoke = oil + coolant water burn. 3. Smoke can have several causes. Severe black smoke (rolling coal) can be caused by faulty (open) fuel injector(s), low compression,loss of turbo boost pressure (insufficient air) or EGR problems may also affect air supply. 4. Oil burning blue smoke can come from bad piston rings, valve seals, excessive crank case pressure, bad turbo seals, faulty EGR operation, or blocked up and gunged EGR, pipes and inlet manifold. Also check the PCV. 5. Most of these possible causes are hard to prove, but doing the least invasive checks first will eliminate many possible causes. 6. Check 1: Run diagnostics and check there are no engine malfunction codes. If no, then smoke problems arise because the cause isn't measured and reported by diagnostics. Check 2: Check for Excessive crank case pressure/blowback on idle by removing the oil cap and feeling with your hand. I actually measured my crank case pressure. You cannot do it at the dipstick because the tube is below the sump oil level. I used a spare V.W oil cap, drilled a centre hole for some pvc tube and connected it to a Monument Gas water gauge - but you can just use a long tube formed as a 'U' and put in some dyed water. I measured a partial vacuum of 3-4 inches WG on idle (Good). Check 3: Do a compression test on each cylinder via the glowplug aperture (M10 x 1mm). N.B Most Chinese compression test tools are for petrol engines up to 300 psi and don't have the pressure or long reach adaptors required for diesels. I found a cheap 0-1000psi diesel comp. test set. Check 4: Test each fuel injector connector with a multimeter: All 0.5 ohm = solenoid type = Good. All >200k ohm= piezo=Good. Check 5: Injector leak off test. This requires plastic hoses connected to each fuel injector leak line. The amount of fuel leaking back is measured on idle for 30 seconds, then at about 2K rpm. There isn't an exact science, but the leak off volumes should be similar from each fuel injector and there should be some. The purpose of this simple test is to identify unusual fuel injector operation before trying to remove it. Warning: Bosch injectors code 03L/130/277J (0445 110 369 B004) are strange because the injector leak off connection is done with a nozzle and push fitting internal plastic retaining clip. Cheap Chinese test kits for Bosch injectors using external clips won't fit this type. They are also damn dangerous, because it's too easy for the plastic retainer to not engage and fill your engine bay with diesel!! Check 6: Dynamic injector pressure test: Risky but some do it wearing gloves and safety glasses: Reverse the injector link to the common rail and tape the injector into a clear plastic tonic water bottle. Remove injector plugs to other 3 injectors to stop firing and have a second person crank whilst looking at the spray pattern. These injector nozzles have 4 outlets. You can only see them on the tip with a magifier or microscope. Check 7: Eliminate the turbo as far as possible. Turbos passing oil causes blue smoke, particularly during acceleration. Remove a large clip on the turbo intercooler hose and check inside for any excessive oil pooling inside. The turbo is fed with high pressure oil which drains through gravity back to the sump. Check the turbo oil drain isn't blocked. The crank case back pressure (should be a vacuum!) is important because positive pressure prevents oil draining from the turbo and forces it past seals. Many good turbos are replaced when these are the real problems.It's more difficult to check turbo seal oil leaks on the exhaust side without removing the DPF and pipes - a horrendous job on the 4x4. Even if these tests as much as you can do all look o.k, that is confirmation to look elsewhere. 7. I didn't do an injector leak test first (I should have). My test conclusions led me to fuel injectors. A diesel specialist will test 4 injectors for £80. If MY12 Yeti had done over 120k instead of 75k, I wouldn't have bothered testing the injectors, just go to a German firm that will supply a set of 4 re-conditioned and re-calibrated with test certificates. Another option I didn't do was buy a used injector for about £70, take a chance it was good and use it as a swap to check the others. After testing I was told injector 2 was so bad it shouldn't go back. But removing injector 2 gave me so much grief I could have damaged it? I was still uncertain and went ahead to buy a used injector with the same part codes from a Passat. 8. Removing a fuel injector from this CR engine: Easy is gently lift up with a flat screwdriver blade using the ABS rocker housing as a fulcrum point. That didn't work for me. Next option is a slide hammer. There are some Ebay injector removal kits using a slide hammer. The first type require the large nut holding the solenoid to be removed in the car. Frought because the solenoid pin, spring and spacer washer can jump out. Safest is the removal tool (Laser) that attaches to the side of the injector body using its fuel inlet nipple. The most important thing is impact must be absolutely vertical on the mounted centre line of the injector. I made a removal tool that clamps to the side with the fuel inlet nipple. 9. When injectors are removed you can check if their stem O rings are still in situ. Mine were burned away. This O rings prevents oil from inside the rocker casing falling down and welling close to the hot injector nozzle, it isn't the primary seal. There's an important copper sealing washer underneath each nozzle, this often drops back into the hole as the injector is removed. Remove the ABS rocker cover because you can then see lower down and inspect the PCV diaphragm. 10. In my case, some injectors had significant black gunge around their nozzles and copper washers were scored. The worst had a part of the surface blown away! The consequence of this is compression leaks inside the valve cover adding dieselto oil blow back and being fed into the exhaust. Remember I said check the compression leak readings for each cylinder! I replaced the copper nozzle washers and even lapped them smooth. I checked the cylinder head nozzle surfaces and gently cleaned them up a little with a 15mm flat cutter. The Chinese seat cutter set was flawed. Their smallest 15mm cutter head fits on a 17mm mandril which I had to turn down to 15mm. 11. Diesel Fuel injectors: I assumed they were piezo, I found no local or online firm that would recondition them. I should have measured them first with a multimeter. Mine were about 0.5 ohms each. Therefore they are solenoid type. A piezo injector will measure very high resistance. Bosch are very clever at making it difficult to do any servicing. The nozzles are coded and you can find parts, but the hex head they put on the nozzle won't fit any wrench. You can remove the insulated solenoid head with a large spanner, but small parts and a spring can leap out and get lost!! 12. Fuel injectors are coded: Before removing any fuel injector you should note the unique serial number code (7 digits) and its corresponding cylinder. If you have previously scanned the car, check the serial numbers and their position tie up. If they don't, somebody has been messing with injectors, replaced them or mixed them up! The 7 digit Bosch injector code incorporate a calibration value of tested fuel volume which the ECU stores. Using vcds and their 'Security access code' popup you enter the injector serial number. When this is done the ECU is supposed to learn and adapt to the new calibration. In practice, I think this means your engine will run smoothly without much diesel knocking? If you didn't recode an injector, I'm sure the engine would still run. 13. On the home straight I replaced the ABS rocker cover which I destroyed to get access to a stuck injector, fitted 4 injectors with new Viton O rings and copper sealing washers, fitted all the diesel pipework and got ready to purge the fuel lines using diagnostics. That done and after some prolonged cranking with a fully charged battery, the engine ran with NO SMOKE. It runs a lot smoother than it did before and I haven't had to replace a turbo, pistons, valves or piston rings. CONCLUSION: Rolling coal black smoke was probably caused by poor injector nozzle sealing and a faulty injector.

I was in our Skoda dealer last week, the service guy mentioned that the Skoda keys are very sensitive to battery quality. He claimed it was one of the most common issues they're dealing with at the moment.

Ye, if red light not illuminated I won't tie in with the car. I had that, it was very frustrating until I realised the red light wasn't on, then all worked. Yes need good battery.

Try one of the ‘good’ batteries in the ‘bad’ key as there’s been quite a few instances recently of new ‘good’ batteries that aren’t!

Perez & Leclerc topped todays practice, Merc's 1.2 & 1.6 seconds off the pace Good news for the Ch4 coverage looks like it's Lee McKenzie back as lead presenter for this race

Owned: My current car, 2022 Audi RS3 Vorsprung Edition… accelerates like nothing you could imagine in the same category, it’s comfy and if you try you get decent mpg (but who’s gonna try that lol) Driven: My work steed, Supercharged Ariel Atom 3… when I say the RS3 is silly quick, The Atom is something beyond that…. 0-60 in around 2.7 seconds, no bodywork and go kart handling… what’s not to love

I keep forgetting to post my reviews on my Brisky thread! https://www.drivelife.co.nz/author/robclubley/

My rs172 cliosport was the best driving car ive owned ,if you were the mood for abit of a hoot it were like a go kart ,but my fave was my slowest motor ive owned and was my short wheelbase mitzi shogun 2.5 diesel it were a pleasure to drive anywhere in any weather .

Finished the TT/LCR/S3 quick rack and suspension conversion earlier today along with poly bushes, new steering arms, ball joints etc... My god what a game changer! I can only confirm what's already been said about this mod, but it's night and day! To be fair the front suspension on mine was pretty worn so a refresh was well overdue anyway but the result is so worth the effort. I also replaced the power steering pump as mine had developed a leak behind the pulley and I deliberated on sticking with the 95 bar VRS or go for the 105 bar TT pump. I stuck with the VRS one, and again I have to agree with what others have said and the steering although a little heavier it suits the car well and feels superb through the steering wheel. The old girl also got treated to EBC yellow stuff pads all round, new discs on the rear, ATE Type 200 brake fluid, HEL braided brake lines, and gearbox fluid change. I got carried away with the oily stuff, and this is the only photo I took I'm afraid!

If you are after a map for better economy then I would not bother. You will spend circa £350+ for a reputable map to gain a few extra mpgs. If you work out how many miles you would need to recouo the cost of the map before you start making savings it would be around 4 years or so worth of driving. I dud have a formula to work it out but cant place it. However if you are just after better driveability then I would say do it. Mine is mapped by Superchips Bluefin and is very smooth when driven normally. I can easily get 55mpg+ when driven sensibly. Like any other car if you use the power the mpgs drop. Personally I think it improves the car and makes it how Skoda should have released it.

With the brakes being affected, I would be looking for a split vacuum pipe

Pilot Sport can be a nice tyre and the likes of a Primacy can be a pure ditch finder tyre that manufacturers fit because they might be a fuel saver due to lack of friction / grip / traction. I hope Primacy 4 + are better than the Primacy 4 so liked by Manufacturers of EV's and Hybrids as OEM fitment.

Ive found it actually works out cheaper to buy a full set from skoda-parts.com in Czech and have them posted that it is to buy from the UK dealer. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0601151fod-wheel-hub-centre-cap-with-a-skoda-logo-19744.html

In my case that rubber edge (inner yellow circle) makes the noise when it touches to the body panel, I put grease on it, does the job for a couple of months, then re-apply

Normal WD40 is a solvent. A spray with this on both hinges and especially the check strap in between both hinges. You want to spray in to the door cavity where the rollers are. Then exercise the door by opening and closing. Then lubricate the same bits with a spray grease like WD40 White Lithium grease. Then exercise the door by opening and closing again. The grease it better for long term protection / lubrication. Thanks, AG Falco

On the MK1 it is the gearbox sensor according to the wiring diagrams but the OP has a 2008 MK2 and on that it's either the gearbox sensor or if fitted ABS

I write notes to myself because it's sometimes not about what to do, but what not to do and fall into a hole next time. I can contribute polished write ups with photos or a video, but there's a tendency for beginners to follow step by step as a problem solver without thinking things through. Problems like these can follow several different paths which may not all apply and there's plenty others have posted on each. What I've tried to do is post my notes and thoughts and it's up to the reader to try and work out what may apply to them. I did fit and try the used Passat injector without re-coding it first and the engine started up and to my ears appeared to run smooth and fine (with no smoke). It actually came from a later 2013 CF series engine but not my CFHC. That's why I suggested the 'calibration' is likely to be fine tuning. Since the ECU plays a part in re-learning some values after you enter a new code, I can only guess what these are and they must come from the Bosch automated injector tester which rebuilders use to allocate a new serial number code? These are the variable characteristics I think each injector may have: Mechanical, e.g How the solenoid responds in time to lifting the jet needle (delay?) and how fast it can pulse for higher rpm, volume of fuel let through the injector nozzle from the time the solenoid is triggered to when it turns off. This would include any lag due to the mass and friction of internal parts, important at high speeds. But how does the ECU 'tune'? I'm not sure if these CR engines have knock sensors, but that feedback could be used to modify the defaultinjector calibration for minimum knock? I took the Yeti on a spirited 30 mile fast drive to complete the dpf regenerating cycle and burn off any unburned fuel left over from the fault. When I got back, I wiped the inside of the tail pipe with tissue and there was zero carbon deposit. I don't know if you've looked at Bosch piezo injectors? I'm glad I don't have them! These are more complex and their calibration data also includes a (high) voltage parameter. Their advantage over the simpler solenoid type like mine is they can turn the nozzle jet on and off 5-10 times faster. This allows the injector, to pre- squirt, normal squirt and post squirt fuel for each firing cycle up to the maximumum engine rpm. You get better efficiency, lower emissions and less diesel knock.

This might help

An update about the boost issue, I've done data logging with visual me7 logger and I have found that the car is over boosting between where the boost starts coming in and 3000rpm then it falls back and follows the requested boost. More diagnosis is needed but that can wait. I've got some other things sorted, picked up a decent driver's seat from a breaker and cleaned it up the car looks loads better just changing the seat. Picked up a door seal too I could really do with getting the paint here sorted. I've been thinking for a while that there was a lot of slop at the engine so I've rebuilt the dog bone with poly Bush's, it's loads better now. That's it for now, the boost issue is next, I'm thinking it might be a boost/vacuum leak so I'm tempted to do all the deletes. I'm thinking of getting/making a boost leak tester as well though so maybe I'll do that first and see what's going on

As does mine, surprisingly how quickly it cuts in after cold start. Very rarely see below 30mpg around town and 41mpg best achieved on a run. Only done around 1.5k miles expecting consumption to improve.

If you have an aftermarket bypass trailer relay it will work with LED bulbs but it is unlikely the audible warning for the indicators will function, probably not a great loss, I struggle to hear mine if the rear is loaded.

I disagree re the ACT... Our kicks in pretty regularly.

1991 Mitsubishi Colt 1.5 GLX. I bought it from new and added a few extras like dark blue metallic paint, a sunroof, multi spoke alloy wheels and a better radio and then did well over 113k miles over 10 years in it. In all that time the only non-service or non-consumable issue with it was a cracked exhaust manifold that was fixed using a second hand part off a Proton that cost £12. I also enjoyed the fact that it was comfy, had decent sports style seats and was different and a bit quirky compared to the run of the mill ford's and the like I could have had. OK it wasn't the Corolla GTI or Civic CRX I wanted but couldn't find or afford but it was still a great car.

Might have a play about on my Polo later, though it has no gearbox speed sensor.

Thanks, Pete. I have the 40A strip fuse removed and fuse 25 in the cabin (5A). If I don't take the cabin one out the ABS still malfunctions but with those two out it kills it and it just drives like a car with no ABS. I wonder what would happen with that 30A one removed. I won't bother tampering to find out, though

Maybe a Mod can lock this thread as there are replies in your other one. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/504757-which-spacers-for-my-280 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/493523-wheel-spacers http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/497547-wheel-spacer-opinions http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/479920-spacer-advice

https://roofcarriersystems.com.au/product/konig-k-summit-k-summit-xl-snow-chains/ Konig is owned by Thule and their configurator shows this as compatible so I would look at that as an option even if ŠKODA doesn’t explicitly state 18/19” wheels as compatible.

If it's a broken front spring quite often you'll find the top mounting breaks and you loose most of the ball bearings. You can buy a complete top mounting or just the bearing part of the mounting. If I'm not in a hurry for the parts I'll trawl Ebay. Most of the suspension parts I've recently bought are either Febi or NAPA.

I've been saying that I'll wait till an EV drops to a reasonable (to me) sum before I spend the money on it... could be waiting a while as even though the MG5 starts at £28,195... that's about £26,195 more than I can or wish to spend on a car.

This is fun and the brake test is very unexpected, at least by me

Have yet to hear of this. Be the latest from the production lines seems to have the new version

New wheel isn't covered under warranty. Rest of the car should be unaffected Ensure you replace the bolt that secures the wheel, and torque it correctly. Also ensure you don't mark/damage the airbag when removing - give them 0 reasons to invalidate other parts warranty

Phew, I’m not alone!

This is what I found, if I change battery as soon as the sign comes on the dash no problem, if I wait, I have to pair it with the car. Got to be 100% red light coming on, on key. I've also used the 2032s with no problem getting them in.

I have to say I was sceptical about this but you were right! Swapping the unbranded new battery with the unbranded one in a known good key resulted in the dead key working again and the working key not. Swapping them back returned things to how they were. Tried another 2 no name CR2025 batteries in it but no joy. Found a Grundig branded CR2025 (all of these are from the big cards of coin batteries, inevitably with all the CR2032s used!) and this worked fine! The keys must just be sensitive to battery quality, I’ll maybe try to get a couple of branded CR2025s for when this inevitably happens again. Interestingly I saw a warning for a low key fob battery once a few weeks ago but nothing since. Hopefully someone will find this useful & thanks again john999boy!

Dude, you can make them, before you will get your car. I am getting one next month, still no info about the car and I ordered the car few months before I made one. 🤣

From the owners manual…

They are giving them away and all have matrix lights. This is what I find most troubling. I am more interested in that guided tour for children. I imagine it looks something like: "Look kids, these are all unfinished cars. Sometimes it pays off not finishing what you started, if you are smart enough, you can even get paid more. Moving on to production line. Listen kids, on the right side cars are missing door panels, so let us move on, here cars are missing chips. The line behind this one is stopped, because we don't have some harnesses, but anyway, look at this shiny robot. He is standing still, because we humans don't know what we are doing. Anyway, people are angry with us, because we are the worst at managing this situation, but if you are incompetent remember, just lie, lie, lie. Kids, now we are going to take a ride on the next line, so at least it is used for something. Thank you for coming and remember, customers are stupid. Bye kids, come again if you want to see what will be missing next...".

I don't get why people don't just get the factory fit tow bar... in my experience it's no more expensive than quotes I've had for aftermarket ones, and, well, it saves all the hassle.

I’ve had a similar issue like Loftus: the red button was out no matter if seat was locked or unlocked and the rim was off like on the first picture of the original post. I tried to take off the rim by hands but it didn’t budge so I busted out a large screwdriver and wedged it under the corners of the other side of the rim (where the opening handle is) and gave it a nudge. The whole rim just came off fine (broke nothing luckily) and after checking the red button (which was perfectly fine) I just refitted the rim and voila: works as expected now. 🙂 So bottom line: there are two long (4-5 cm) plastic “tongues” with a hole at the end on each side of the latch near the opening handle that just click in place way down that you need to force open, then the whole rim comes off. Hope this helps.