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More progress, sump off and new wet belt for the oil pump fitted, new crank seal and sump back on. Head refitted and rocker cover fitted, all new gaskets for the rocker cover and cam shafts etc. Turbo refitted with new gaskets and new seals for the return and feed lines. Dpf and egr cooler fitted with exhaust, all with new gaskets. New engine mounts fitted. Cam belt and pulleys refitted and timed up. Still got quite a bit to get through but all progress.

@Alasdair1 it could simply be injectors sound. A lot of feedback is suggesting it’s completely normal and I guess I’m not familiar with this engine. I’ve only really worked with 1.2HTP, 1.4AZQ and 1.4BBZ Fabia engines. Generally speaking the car did drive great. I did read somewhere it does a kangaroo thing on gear one but I didn’t experience that. Being a CATN all service records were gone but they did have a print out of some service records which seemed good. I don’t think the sellers actually knew it was CAT N and it seems like they’re only selling due to a change of circumstances and not trying to dump the car. I’ve asked for them to MOT it and I’ll pay. And if there’s any issues either reduce the price or fix it and I’ll pay closer to asking price. I would request a mechanic to inspect it but it’s far from where I live and I’m not sure I’m willing to spend extra before buying the car.

An issue with that case may be that it's an RFID shield - OP sounds to primarily use KESSY without physically taking key out of bag. I was thinking more along the lines of a small, hard plastic case.

Your tyre pressures are far too low... Hence the wear. I'd also suggest you get the tracking looked at if that wear was on the inside edge as it suggests a slightly toe out setting at the moment However, the key problem will be the pressures your using IMHO.

The Service Agent asked me to try E5. The car is going soon and we will not be getting another Škoda or VAG car so their handling of this issue, and others, has cost them a customer.

Turn off the A/C button (icon?) in the climate control screen. But like Scott said, many cars equipped with AC need it to demist, just the heating isn't enough.

You can use blowers without having aircon switched on, however, you may find your car mists up. At least that's what happens to mine when I switch A/C off

Firstly which version if the DSG gearbox do you have? DQ200 dry clutch used with 1.0 TSI engine, 1.5 TSI 2wd and possibly the 2wd diesel Karoqs. DQ381 wet clutch used in all 4x4 Karoqs. Auto hold will have an affect as has been mentioned already. I have a wet clutch DSG 4x4 Karoq and a Fabia with the dry clutch DSG. So taking the wet clutch DSG first with auto hold on, gears ca. only be selected with the foot brake pressed, selecting D or R taking the right foot off the brake pedal and without touching the throttle the car should creep either forwards or back, if you are in a slope it might take fractionally longer before it moves. The wet clutch DSG can slip the clutch without overheating because the clutch plates are cooled by the gearbox oil. Sometimes a light tap on throttle is needed to release Auto hold. With auto hold on there is no need to either apply or release the parking brake manually it is released by tapping the throttle and applied automatically when the engine is switched off. The dry clutch DSG operates in the same way but I find it’s a little slower to start creeping. There are a few situations when auto hold has to be turned off and sometimes left foot braking is needed to make progress- I don’t recommend left foot braking. In the 13 years I’ve been driving DSG cars there most awkward situations were trying to creep out into traffic with severe limited view to the right, a car appears to press the brake pedal and then that car stops to let you out and either hill hold if auto hold has to be released before you can move. Reversing up hill is another that can be awkward if you need throttle to overcome the slope. I find with both the Fabia dry clutch and Karoq wet clutch I can use creep without throttle 99% of the time and use the foot brake to control speed. The trick is to use very light foot brake pressure. If you are still finding it difficult then if could be the DSG clutch biting points need to be “relearnt”. I had this done on the Fabia by an independent DSG specialist. Before it was done the Fabia wouldn’t creep without throttle but thd clutches kept engaging and disengaging unpredictably - took 15 minutes cost £160 and absolutely transformed the car. Hope this helps.

Make & Model: 2013 FL Skoda Superb V6 Elegance hatchback Colour: Cappuccino Beige Mileage: 83500 Price: £7250 Description: After 8 years I'm reluctantly selling my 2013, 63 reg Superb V6. I've enjoyed every minute of ownership (save for filling it with super unleaded) and it has proven to be an incredibly practical, reliable & subtle means of covering distance swiftly (when required) yet as unobtrusively as possible. Anyone who knows anything about the Superb V6 will know how rare they are and just what a capable car it is. The engine is detuned a little from the 300bhp on offer in parent VW's R36 Passat but the car is still very rapid and planted when it is asked to be, especially as the superb-sounding (pun intended) VR6 is coupled to all four wheels via a 6 speed DSG/Haldex 4WD combo. The car has always been serviced to schedule and has a full service history - by both Skoda main dealer courtesy of the first and only other owner - and a VAG specialist under my ownership, & has never wanted for anything. It had a replacement Haldex unit fitted by a main dealer under warranty within the first year of my owning the car but otherwise has not required any other major items. Being Elegance spec the car has pretty much all the convenience and luxury features available at the time including black full leather, A/C, Sat Nav, DAB radio, Bluetooth for phone and music, AFS bi-xenon headlights, heated electric seats etc. The interior is in very good condition whilst the exterior is good but could do with some slight attention due to a few stone chips and scuffs front and rear. Also, the alloy wheels will definitely benefit from being refurbished - something I have always intended to get done but just never got around to. Additionally there is some patterning on the chromed window surrounds on the c-pillar glass and a couple of the heated rear screen elements are inoperative due to the ham-fisted removal of a previous dealer sticker by the Skoda dealer from who I purchased the car. The original Skoda umbrella is present, still in its supplied plastic wrapping and there is a rare and unused space saver wheel under the boot floor. The car is still in light use so the mileage may increase slightly. MOT valid until 18/ 11/ 26 More photos and additional blurb here: https://www.carandclassic.com/l/C2097409 No P/X, holding or swaps. Thanks for looking. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Full Skoda and VAG specialist history, next service due late 2026 Extras: n/a Mods: Car is standard except for two plug and play LED number plate light units (not excessively bright like some). I still have the originals with their bulbs too. Shipping: n/a Collection: Yes. Guildford, Surrey Pictures:

He messaged me about 8 hours ago, and I replied to tell him his front brake PR code is 1ZG.

my DSG used to move if you took your foot off the brake whilst in d or R for parking without a problem. I have a feeling you have "Autohold" set on. which puts the the brakes on when you press the foot brake when stopped it then requires the accelerator to be pressed to move. If you turn the auto hold off whilst maneuvering you may find it better.

What you have is actually an automated manual gearbox - which, as you are finding, is very different to a TC transmission.

I think it's called hiding in plain sight 😉 You would be surprised what people who live in a different world than us do

There are clearly some very rich fools about if they are happy to spend 40 times over the odds for something that ugly (IMHO of course)

EV PoweredFirst Ferrari Luce sells for $40m, almost 40 times its es...The first Ferrari Luce has sold for $40m at RM Sotheby's Monterey auction, almost 40 times its estimate, with every dollar of the price going to charity.

It would appear to me that you need an upgraded oil cooler with thermostatic control to prevent overcooling on lighter loads.

It looks like Škoda has apparently fixed the problem in the background. It took about a week since my last post.

6Q0511115AK has build code 0YJ, which is one lower in the hierarchy compared to 6Q0511115AL with its 0YK build code...so 6Q0511115AL is still the one to go for.

Hi, thanks very much for taking the time to explain so thoroughly. I'm afraid we have the standard 'low' design, so it appears we are doomed! It's so frustrating. Today the light has been working about 50% of the time - other days, it's off all the time. I think it may be possessed. Whatever the case there's just no way it should cost a family holiday (Skoda have quoted £880 or thereabouts) to fix a defective light on an ordinary small car. It's an absolute disgrace and in my view shows Skoda's contempt for their customers - nothing about this needed to be this way, it's purely the manufacturer's intentional choice. Anyway, at least I now know I'm not missing a trick - we really are that screwed! Thanks again for your thoughtful and comprehensive reply, it's much appreciated.

I've parked my car on the Skoda parts website and it seems the part number below is correct 6Q0 511 115 AK Rear axle coil spring, colour coding: 1x orange, 2x blue, 2x white. Gf13dwm: FITS YOUR CAR

The connection is inside the rear pillar. You pop off the trim in the car, unplug, pull off grommet, pull cable through. See this Youtube video I used

Hi all just to update on tsi fabia slugish, gone through general things plugs,leads, fuel system all found ok took air filter, new filter fitted then notice air pipe from turbo out not fitted correct,so check parts to and cleaned them, insalled together. then tested along same bit of road, wow what a difference. So heres what happened, Fabia purchased from Copart front pasenger side damaged. Cost 1100 , wing repaired new n/s lower arm, 2 new lower ball joints front New head light, new fog drive light n/s, two track rod ends 1 control arm, new windscreen, and front airbags and seat belt tensioners front, inner wheel arch, new power steering pump. Front shock absorbers, diagnostic calbration on all vehicle. Total cost 1,200 and a labour of love and training for my son. Hence time frame iam disabled using crutch Alas no getting on floor of drive.

No experience with Waze but use Google Maps with my 2013 Columbus and suspect works the same in that the phone audio from the app only comes through to the car speakers if Columbus is set to play Bluetooth media. Works for me as tend to listen to audio books on long drives so the Google Maps announcements (and speed camera warnings from Speed Camera Alert app) come though and interrupt in audio book playback.

^^^ If getting only 6 hours offpeak tariff then with a 3 pin AC charge cable you can get near 15 kWh in that time, so maybe 60 miles of range. The normal home tariff might be near 1/2 that of the cost of a kWh at public chargers.

Sorry I meant to reply to this earlier.... If your distribution board is full there are alternatives. For instance my supply is split after the meter via a Henly block with one set of tails going to the board and another to a weatherproof mini fuse box to feed my charger. All extra wiring is in the existing meter cupboard. There are ways and means.

I'm 8 months in to Elroq 85 ownership from previous 2.0TSIs in different forms. It's fantastic. Really comfortable, the range has never been an issue. Range in summer at 100% is above 300, and in the deep winter around 240-250. We've gone further afield twice now - as long as you use some basic common sense to plan your charges, it's no issue. I first drove EV in 2023 as my dad had one as a business lease and the public charging infrastructure has completely transformed even since then. I would argue that potentially no home charging is a big deal; public charging prices whilst still cheaper than petrol, will hamper any savings on fuel. Also, it's big. And heavy. It rides really well; I'm on the standard Sportline suspension, but you just can't escape the weight. We also have a Cupra Born with the 59kwh battery; that is a lot more fun and hides its weight better, helped by the smaller battery. In terms of trim, Sportline comes very well equipped. Driver package (DCC) would be recommended just to soften the ride further. Having Sportline also reduces the price of the extra packs; if I were given the choice, I'd spec the Advanced package too. It brings a lot of extra goodies including the HUD which you might think is a gimmick, but it's absolutely brilliant on our Born and helps to avoid looking at the small drivers display screen for speed/limits/ACC & Nav info.

Stupid question but have you checked for fault codes? If one is present the ECU often shuts down that particular function t avoid further damage. It may be that the controller was faulty and has been shutdown but that code is still present and hence the new one won't function either?

Opening the bonnet can cancel the warning for 62 miles / 100 km.

Thanks man! Made it work... and saved me alot of money!