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Thanks DaveFromSydney - that's pretty good economy. Well I'm just about to find out for myself how thirsty they are as I'm just in the process of buying an ex demo race blue 26 plate with 1000 miles on the clock and pano roof and winter pack ( handy for my Scottish weather ).

You can get a hair dryer or heat gun and gently warm the area. it will hopefully soften the clips etc to prevent snapping in the cold weather. they can be a bit awkward and stiff but you pull straight forwards in line with the car, not at the angle the trim is at. That seems to be the main issue. I am assuming it is pre-facelift. I am not sure how the facelift ones come out.

I've not come across the word gettered. Is that where the inside of the bulb's glass is covered in evaporated filament? The bulb failure monitoring electronics in the BCM should be quite sensitive, yes. Bugger all to do with the CAN bus though, the bulb clusters have no connection to it.

Hatch back equivalent with virtual cockpit, a year newer and £3.5k cheaper! Love the colour too! https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202610197135577?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios-app

Remove the rubber access seals for the headlamp bulbs and fire a hair drier in to the unit. HTH Thanks. AG Falco

Yes. Advice from someone such as @Cairus might be required. He tends to know the long coding for everything!

Yes, that's what it means...

I do not have the vin number at all , all i have is the part exchange papers for the car i part exchanged it for but it only describes the car on it , doesn’t day anything important that would help to finding it

The system is pretty sensitive. Pinged up number plate light on mine. Both were working but one had slight corosion. I assume it senses a difference in resistance. Alasdair

Had a look at my sons and its not the same. No quick release system. Best option would be to remove rubber seals from rear and switch lights on for a while. The heat from bulbs should dry it up. Years ago a trick if lens was glass was to put a towel over it so it heated up more and remove rubber seals at rear to vent moist air. Dont do it with plastic lenses. They tend to melt as I found out a few years ago. Alasdair

My mk2 octavia is the same. Reckon its the front lens seal thats gone. On the Octavia you can remove entire unit easily. I took it in to warm house and managed to dry it up carefully in front of fire then used a thin silcone bead around lens. Been ok for a while now. It may be that the rubber covers are loose or missing at rear as well. On the Octavia you remove plastic nut and pull a lever bellow headlight and the unit pops out. Makes bulb changes so much easier. Alasdair

Hi Guys, just bought myself/my lad a 2006 Mk1, 1.2HTP, 12V Fabia. Needs plenty of work, but hope to keep you all updated as we work to get it into good mechanical condition for his 17th birthday. Look forward to chatting, Rick.

First of all, thanks for all the input in this thread. I know it's been a while, but I finally found the root cause of the problem and wanted to share my findings. The problem turned out to occur almost exclusively on hot summer days. I suppose that explains why it didn't happen very often, considering I live in Sweden! Then the car started draining the battery. When I measured the current draw, I discovered that the infotainment system was consuming power even when the ignition was switched off. At the same time, the infotainment fault was still present. You were right that the problem was related to the CAN bus for the infotainment system. When I scanned the control units, the infotainment unit wasn't even detected. When I measured the CAN bus at the back of the infotainment unit, there was no voltage. About two years ago, I had problems with the electric tailgate actuator. Back then, I discovered broken wires in the moving wiring harness near the actuator. So this time, I removed the rubber boot for the bigger cable harness and found several wires with cracked insulation and broken conductors.

In which case, just as easy (and you’ll save on labour cost to buy new wishbones/control arms seeing as they almost all come with the new bushes and ball joints in.

Ooo they’re nice. I had been eyeing up the team dynamics LT in black. No way can I afford them mind you! Team Dynamics MotorsportPro Race LT Lightweight Alloy Wheel - Team Dynamics Motor...Pro Race LT is an ultra-lightweight, race-inspired, performance alloy wheel. Designed with inspiration from the British Touring Car Championship

2 things to bear in mind: They weigh a ton Whilst they do look natural, they sit beautifully proud of tyres inviting the most exquisite of lovetaps with any and every kerb. My advice, get something that is a little lighter and also that sits flat or dishes in slightly. Also not a fan of diamond-cut given its propensity to give up the ghost so easily.

Cracking view at Fairlight this afternoon, looking East towards Little Cheyne Court Wind Farm on the left and Dungeness on the right: Gaz

Mileage now 125,600 , remap at 64,700, that’s 63,900 on the remap and the upgrades

Fair. Probably best to let the mechanic do it. Wouldn't you just let the mechanic buy what they need? That's how it normally works right? You don't buy anything if you aren't doing the job. Just take car to mechanic and they will get what they need based on their experience.

Car now sold, replaced by a new Kia Ceed on rolling 6month lease new replacement every six month

AI says it's a wet clutch, yes it's a company car and under warranty but local dealer tends to ignore the 'issues' I raise and just do the routine servicing. 🙄 No other franchise nearby so was hoping some sort of gearbox learning reset sequence might have been possible somehow?