paddypaws

You have nothing to gain by having the emissions fix, but everything to lose, there's a group on Facebook of about 7000 people that have had problems. This is still a small percentage, but I'm certainly not having mine done.

Seen this Android phone App - VAG DPF it is supposed to be fantastic for giving more info than you'll ever need about your DPF. Been recommended on the facebook group for people having problems with the emissions fix. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.applagapp.vagdpf&hl=en_GB I've not used it myself but I know you need a cheap bluetooth OBDII reader for the phone to pair to.

Another vote for one of these they work perfectly and an easy install: http://www.dabonwheels.co.uk/Kinetic_DEGA-T4002_telescopic_glass_mount_DAB_car_aerial.html

What does a dpf and egr removal map cost ? I'm tempted.

You should have a logged fault code if the haldex is unresponsive. Its hard to get the front wheels to spin on my scout with a haldex. The haldex had a fault on mine, it was the pump, apparently these do fail. I didn't investigate the pump I just had it swapped at the dealer cost is in the region of £250. Also I've read, occasionally the wiring to the haldex corrodes at the cable connector.

I've read many reports of cars being screwed after the emissions update on this facebook group, so my car is not getting it done. https://www.facebook.com/groups/955027937948541/

I've got a set of Audi A4 alloys from a car about 10 years old on ebay. PCD of 5x112 and centre bore of 57.1mm ET42. Perfect for 205/55 R16 tyres, straight swap and perfect fit.

You need to measure the voltage with the bulb IN and ON. You need to measure that the bulb is receiving 12v on load. The bulb draws current so if there's resistance in the wiring then some voltage will be dropped across the problem part of the wiring. If you measure voltage with the bulb out any resistance in the wiring will be insignificant compared to the several megaohms of the meter and it will not be a useful reading. Make sure the meter is set to measure D.C. voltage before connecting it up across the bulb terminals. If you have it in the wrong mode e.g. current you will get a bang blow fuses in the car or the meter.

Loads of people. You may want to join this facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/955027937948541/

Many EA189 'fixed' vehicles having similar issues many have had free repairs. https://www.facebook.com/groups/955027937948541/

You may want to join this facebook group of people having similar problems with emissions fixed vehicles. https://www.facebook.com/groups/955027937948541/

I would be interested to know if these cars with P0403 errors have had the EA189 emissions 'fix'.

I've been following a facebook VW 'fix' thread which has reported that many remaps don't remove the VW emissions fix, but some do. The remap has to be a modification of the original software on the car. If your re-mapper copied the 'fixed' software from the car then modified it and put it back on then your problems very likely could be due to the extra usage of the EGR/DPF that the fix causes (due to the extra soot produced). A rework of the 'fixed' software doesn't necessarily reverse this behaviour if those things are not touched. I would find out from your re-mapper where the base software came from. The VW thread has had many reports of cars doing frequent DPF regens every couple of hundred miles, sometimes with the car going into limp mode. Skoda are not getting their emissions 'fix' on my Scout.

The mk3 Octavia doesn't have the ea189 engine so isn't affected by the emissions recall. My mk2 fl is registered April 2013 one of the last that is affected.

Had a similar problem, mine wouldn't show the fault in my Torque phone App but my Skoda dealer could see the fault. Just replaced the Haldex pump at a cost of around £300. I've heard the electrical connection to the Haldex can become corroded, Its probably just a motor that needs taking apart and cleaning if you can be bothered, looks relatively easy to get at, although I expect you'd need to replace the Haldex oil. I decided I couldn't be bothered to do that as I got £100 off the bill as a good will gesture my car was not even 4 years old.

Got my letter today for my Scout, and definitely will not be having it done. I have been reading the Facebook VW group that are reporting having lots of problems post 'fix', EGR, DPF, and Injector failures among others. VW are ignoring their complaints. VW Emissions Scandal Facebook Group

This bit is a car programming option, laptop with VCDS is required to change it or a dealer can change it. As for the intermittant remote, if it works fine for a short time after the battery is replaced then it sounds like dirty battery contacts. Clean the remote battery contacts. The best thing to use is Isopropyl alcohol and / or a contact cleaning pen / contact cleaner. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glass-Fibre-Cleaning-Pen-Electronics-Battery-Compartment-BRAND-NEW-/201535230250?hash=item2eec6f912a:g:yLwAAOSw3v5XImi4

I have read reports of diffs being drained mistakenly during haldex oil services, and the haldex just topped up, probably not the case as the oil was on the ground. Mine is going in for a haldex pump this week which failed not long after the haldex service.

I just replaxed my rears disks at 55k due to corrosion, the old OEM disks were Bosch from new.

Manual gear change is on the gear stick, but DSG is so good especially sport mode.

I did the same change as you Sandspider, from a Subaru Legacy Mk4 to the Mk II FL Scout DSG I have now. I personally love the Scout with DSG. Mine's a newer MkII with a CR engine and coming from a petrol, I would highly recommend getting the later CR engine, its much more refined, more of a petrol power delivery and won't be a shock to your ears coming from the subline Subaru engine. I do miss the Subaru but I don't miss the 26mpg. The CR 140 manages 49 mpg generally or sometimes 53 on a run though wales recently and it feels just as nippy as the Subaru. My Haldex pump has just failed at 55k, but Skoda are making a contribution so its a £237 all in for a new pump fitted which could be worse. Its the first repair the car has had apart from some rear brake disks.

Hey, no problem, I was a bit blunt when I re-read it. That's the trouble with forums sometimes, If things are written quickly the intonation is lost and can seem rude.

I didn't mean to be blunt but its a very well documented fact that a relay coil will always damage a semi conductor driving it if it doesn't have a proper shunt diode, either external or internally. Unfortunately some of the other technical explanations further up the top of the page are wrong, but I'm not getting in to that.

Obviously. It depends on the relay, the diode and the HID kit.

It won't Mike, the relays coil is the problem, which is directly connected to the Mosfet in the BCM any spike will kill it. The diode has to be there whether built in or external.