gumdrop

Thanks Gizmo. I never wanted it as it does need frequent cleaning, so what is the point? When this stuff first came out it was very expensive and I was surprised when I was offered the coating on a second hand Ford for £25 as they were clearing stock.

I refused it for my two Yeti, but it was done on the Fabia. If there is accident damage the whole car has to be redone

I had a quick look out of curiosity; https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=skoda+fabia+monte+carlo+interior+colours&dcr=0&sxsrf=ALeKk006YQaXtEM-j-qnVHtKejLosmup4w:1616346529936&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi4u4CG8MHvAhUkmVwKHT-ZDZYQ_AUoAXoECA4QAw&biw=1920&bih=919 There are a few different colours

My car turned up, all handles shrouded in cling film and the steering wheel, gearchange, handbrake. I wiped everything down anyway and the seat adjustment levers then drove around the block with the windows open.

Thank you.

I had my car serviced today, when it is returned how thouroughly should it be cleaned. It is something I had not thought of previously.

My Fabia battery is charging via a Ctek charger from this lighter port. My Focus would not do this without the ignition on.

My Yeti battery did not like camping, so I always booked a pitch with a hook up and avoided expensive yeti electrics failure.

Check your tyre pressures as well (cold) and if necessary equal them up and reset, then thats another symptom causing item laid to rest

Hello Colin, I use a "plumbers" ptfe silicone and put it on a cloth, you are correct a direct spray is "too wet"

One of my first jobs in the winter is to wipe around the door rubbers with silicone spray, then do the door locks with the same stuff (there may be something better for door locks) Then connect up the CK battery charger if I'm not using the car regularly and muff up the radiator grill. I used to park back end of the car into the wind where practicable, as well.

You cannot beat a cheap multimeter for testing bulbs, around £8 on Amazon

e-Roottoot suggestion with copperslip is good Rare but possible, is grit trapped in between the caliper and pad, I had this on a Ford Focus.

Carry some mud mats, mine are open diamond pattern, I have a cord attached so they come with the car once you are moving. Don't forget to detach them after use, they worked a treat when caravanning.

I always used to rock the car back and forward to break the wheels from an icy grip. Of course you may be mistaking "hill hold"?

I remembered seeing this; https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/eibach-springs-knocking-sound-issue.378245/ I had this noise on a machine and it was the spring ends rotating, basically, but read the comments

Euro 6, my 2L diesel was the nicest car I have ever driven and was slightly more powerful than the previous one (Yeti) The Add Blue was no problem

Once my Yeti was hot (therefore at its most efficient) the stop start rarely operated. Short journeys it was always operational until I turned it off in frustration.

I was told never mix Blue with Pink or vice versa any variation in letters or numbers in Either colour is coolant strength rating. Is this outmoded information?

My initial move would be to hold the door handle fully extended and using a can of Duck Oil give it a short puff of spray then open and close the handle a few times. After that if it works no better read the next post.

My lower Grille has a different style to yours with less open area so I have just blanked off the top grille, I used zip ties as I had lost the magnets somewhere. Hardboard painted to match or contrast the car colour makes a good cheap muff.

I had this the other day, I thought it was external frozen rain drops but it was the heaviest condensation I had ever seen Inside! I had put my frost shield over the windscreen and side windows, the car was parked facing uphill on my drive. I had done a couple of short distance family ferrying jobs during the day with all the windows shut, heater on, so I suppose the warmer moist air moved up through the car to my windscreen where it was cold enough to condense but could not freeze because of the frost screen keeping it just at the dew point. Hence the big drops of condensation.

I found taking the cover off mine was a nuisance sometimes, so I tried hooks as were fitted to my Yeti grill cover and currently am fussing about with some "always in place magnets" so I can just pull the cover off and put it in the boot. I did find the grill cover helped when fording, helping to keep the bow-wave rolling nicely. You still need to be Sensible though!

Cover up stuff that may catch overspray and anoint the joints with silicone spray or silicone polish. mine used to creak and squeak in hot, dry weather. Even a little water spray can make a difference as I found out with an old Avenger GT whose steering bushes shrieked if they dried out.

Wading with a normal car; No deeper than the bottom of the hub cap or whatever the alloy wheel equivalent is. (below the sills?) Drive slowly keeping the *small bow wave* rolling in front of you. I rounded a shallow bend onto a straight section of road (a familiar daily journey to work) I was moving at around 30mph and found myself looking at a small lake, too late to brake so I aimed for the crown of the road and changed down a gear to avoid water intake. I aquaplaned across the water on the engine under panel the front wheels acting like rudders until they gripped the road again, safe, dried the brakes out and carried on. Seasons Greetings, Stay Safe. * PS my manager bent the con rods on his diesel engine.