KenONeill

The last time an emergency service driver did something I did not expect I was still a learner, say 40 years ago. I was on a roundabout and concentrating on the roundabout and my exit. I was passing an intermediate road between my entry and exit when he activated his two tones, whilst further from the roundabout than I could have looked. If he'd left it even another second I would have realised more easily where he was, and that I could clear the roundabout onto dual carriageway, and do a deviation there if required (he was actually crossing the roundabout between different roads than the ones I needed).

Don't see the point. I'll check the adjustment of both mirrors before driving off every time they unfold.

No, bad drivers are the ones who signal without any idea whether or not there is anyone else there to see it.

Try using some precipitated chalk on the windscreen.

AH!!! If you're running high rake like that, that will make the car "pointy" itself. Either drop the back end again or raise the front.

Cycle rack or bike rack.

Definitely prefer the multi-spoke wheels, and prefer Rusty to the BMW Midi parked behind him? in the second photo.

Because he's not fixing the throttle sensor fault I suspect. That said I don't recognise the code, so can't consult a wiki to find out what it relates to.

Enough said; I wouldn't trust that shower to speak my weight!

@jamiesandford You have an EMS fault; you need to get the codes read, but at the Skoda stealer's price VCDS or OBD11 make economic ways of doing this! You may have a fueling or oil fault. What does the exhaust smell of? This looks like a fueling or possibly EMS fault. And this like an oil or over-fueling fault, or possibly an oiled up catalyst and/or lambda probe. Supplemental. Do you have heavy oil consumption?

Not hard to find in Glasgow! Who was the VW stealer in question?

Pretty much yes (or no depending on you read me above); either way the trail arms pivot in the vertical plane if the beam they're mounted on is straight. Also correct, if the used part was straight! Get a straight edge the length of the beam or thereby and measure its straightness properly.

The only way I can see that happening is if you jacked the car on the rear beam and bent it.

No. The rear axle is a torsion beam, so the wheels remain parallel throughout the suspension travel. Do you have an additional RARB fitted?

In principle yes, but you'd need the rear floor, rear suspension, prop shaft, shaft tunnel and transaxle from the 4x4.

Or, as we mostly call it, "half-worn".

Tricky; it's a wet liner block so can't really be rebored.

DIYable, but as I said above it takes less than half an hour if you know how.

I'd expect them to pay labour too, at a garage of your choice.

No. The garage broke it, so they have to replace it at their expense and time.

Right location, but that doesn't mean it's outputting the correct temperature. Hence the question and explanation upthread.

They do. I thought that knowing what to look for might be helpful.

Is the outside temperature sensor working correctly? It may be "a luxury" on a track day car, but even without "the rest of the a/c", the heater will try and give you warmer air if this sensor reads low.

Dunno. Is there any evidence that the sheaths for the HB cables are collapsing? This can happen more on one side than the other.

He reports "twin turbo". He must have done more than this because it's revving just over 7_000 (dyno) which definitely needs new pistons and valve springs, and then is right on the bleeding edge of the bleeding edge (as in you will bend pushrods at best if you miss a gear shift).