KenONeill

So it's complaining and nannying you in a situation where it doesn't matter because you're not steering. Go back and read what I actually said. Now tell me in what situation, on a 2 lane road you need to signal after an overtake in order to perform the expected move back to your normal running lane (and "because Lane Enforce says so" is not a traffic situation; it is a situation caused by bad software not taking account of its environment). As to the car "forgetting what nation it's in", there are multiple cases where this has happened on this very blog. The most you're doing is showing that you can't or don't read what someone else has put properly.

So you're now claiming not only that Lane Enforce is a useful system, but that you should signal left (RHD countries; right in Wrong HD ones) when returning to your lane after completing an overtake on a dual track road? And when the car "forgets" what nation it's in?

Almost certainly. Inside the gaiter at the base of the lever. Probably, but I'd need to see it to be certain.

@mlbSK2011 I'm in Dumbarton, so don't know Stirlingshire garages. I can give you a recommendation in Clydebank if you want though? As for the PAS, can you cope with the sudden increase in steering weight? That's the most hazardous thing I can think of other than the wallet pain associated with an MoT failure. As @Breezy_Pete asks, is the battery light showing on switch on, and extinguishing when the engine fires? This is that important I asked it again. Also, is the battery light even flickering at idle revs? A check in the Thistle Centre multi-story may help here. If the battery light isn't showing, ask a local garage (no need to pay main stealer prices for a 20 minute job) to check the alternator control wires.

@Limorichard Don't apologise for "main stealer"; lots of us do that one. To get the extended service, you need to input the fact of a service with VCDS, OBD11 or a dealer computer, not a button reset which only sets a fixed interval service.

Never mind the parts cannon. Let's go back to basics. Do you get grey smoke that smells of diesel on a cold start?

Some faults clear themselves if they don't recur in a few hours of the first instance.

Definitely on the TDi (110).

If it helps, getting from 288mm to 312mm discs just needs new caliper carriers, discs and pads. You'd certainly need new calipers to fit the 310mm discs AFAIK.

If and only if the new discs are 50% thicker than the old ones, which you don't state except by implication.

Based on mine, you may need to push it in to reset, and then pull it back out because it rubs on the panel transparency and sticks "in".

Likewise, and I think it's his 3rd or 4th gen handle.

OK, do they have any text cast into them? Probably DS3 (for 288 or 312mm discs) or possibly FSIII (almost certainly 280mm discs).

It has both ABS and a switchable traction control. So you need to describe the light. The most likely issue is one of the FOUR (4) ABS sensors being a bit crook, but you need a good fault reader (VCDS or OBD11 for preference) to identify which sensor the fault is with.

Like my mate's girlfriend's M*n*, where the question following a change of head gasket was "Whereabouts should the temperature gauge on this car be when it's hot?" And the responses included "Above 'cold' and below 'hot'."

280mm, which are also the biggest discs that will fit in the FSIII calipers.

There's a reason why in the UK they are referred to as "Skoda main stealers"...

You like spending £60/hour on the overhead of a new car salesroom!!

Given the rest of this post, may I suggest that this main stealer is well due a report in the dealer's area?

I think you should ignore any further advice from whoever told you that 1st is not synchromesh (Reverse might not be, but when do you select reverse whilst moving? Beyond that, I suspect that the gear linkage needs realigned. Also, knowing your nationality is useful because not every nation's Skodas are the same specification, and neither are their consumer protection laws which may apply here.

Tell me more, tell me more, tell me more... Hiya, and that is some Skoda CV.

The last time I compared labour rates, my local Indy was half the rate of the nearest Main Stealer. They were happy to let you see the workshop, staff certifications, old parts removed from your car...

Those are "easy diagnostic tests". (2) the answer is "never use recirc unless following a smoker or in fire smoke", but it can cause erratic temperatures if you do. I now think you may need diagnostic software tests, VCDS or similar. If a garage says "I didn't know you could test Climatronic with that" (or similar) run away and never go back.

Not unusual on overhead camshaft (and indeed pushrod cam in head) engines. Also about 10 minutes work.