KenONeill

Not knowing which Windoze Thrustmaster mandates, I can't be definitive, but if I were buying a Windoze laptop (rather than using a work one), I'd buy a Dell with Windoze 10 and an SSD, then use Internet Explorer or Edge to download Google Chrome.

@Reamis @Wino - Meantime, which ECUs have been ported from the donor car? I've this notion that the ignition immobiliser may have activated because it's in a different car.

I think you have an undiagnosed sticky tappet then. A general "quietly tappety" sound on a hydraulic tappet engine usually means you need an oil change, and piston slap pretty much always quietens down on a hot engine. Piston slap is also more of a whoosh whoosh whoosh noise than a tacka tacka tacka.

Well, if sounds like tappets to me @SeanB321 . So:- Is it due an oil change? Does it get quieter when the engine warms up?

Based on my laptop and experience, you'd have to turn the volume up to about 120 out of 100 to get a real life sound level.

Yes, or it could just be the one in the driver's door, or a broken central locking wire in the driver's door A post, which will need a continuity west to diagnose.

Well, I've known timing chains (non-tensioner engines) get noisy at as low as 20_000 miles. You may well remember noisy chains on Ladas and/or Simcas too.

Well, the first answer is always to check the tyre pressures are as recommended (usually a sticker on the back of the fuel filler cover on a Skoda), and in particular that you've not been delivered with one tyre soft of over-hard.

I suspect the wiring in either the driver's door, it's jamb, or in the boot/tailgate.

What do your mean? The plip doesn't work but the key does, or the plip works but the key doesn't? I've an idea if the plip doesn't work...

My favourite US modern that's not a sports car.

Well, I prefer the De Soto to the Dodge, but I'm staying with the idea that US cars are better with 8 cylinder engines! (or V10s in the case of a Dodge Viper)

Guys, I've just had a "really great idea". Lets have a "new form of motorsport" that combines the worst features of Formula E, rallycross and stage rallying in a single championship.

In that case, I start wondering if the union and pipe have had it... Nothing further since I'm not allowed to go to Sweden so can't inspect the job in meatspace.

Block a wheel with chocks front and rear. Most polis have sufficient sense to take that as meaning you have no intent of driving.

Yes, but you had the best available heat grade, and the correct mixture and timing. Most plug faults trace to wrong plug grade, or miss-set mixture and/or ignition timing, not of choice of electrode materials.

@Stan44 - Well, my suggestion is based on ZF Transmissions recommending changing ATF every 4 years or 48_000 miles (76_000km) and what they've forgotten about automatic gearboxes isn't worth knowing!

@Sympol Do you have a correct size brake spanner, like a ring spanner with a gap so it can hold 5 sides of the union, or are you trying with a conventional open ended spanner which will only hold 2 flats? To change wheel cylinders or brake calipers you need the correct size brake spanner.

@Stan44 - well, that's not right. I'd suggest draining the transmission, then refilling it with an approved ATF (not Sylkoline because VAG gearboxes don't like that otherwise good brand.

Will anyone actually miss the "Wales Rally of North Wales"?

Well, I'd say the car is running rich. Also, I'm dubious about the benefits of multi-electrode and/or precious metal spark plugs in an engine design this old.

Best use of a US 6-cylinder engine ever!

Problem with that being 40mph grockles.

I think the fault code may be a red herring if the fault is road speed related. Try checking that all 4 tyres are actually the same size, and set to the correct pressures.

How about a Ford VelociRaptor, with a portable star on the roof?