KenONeill

According to UK trucking magazines, the Irish hauliers are avoiding having to do WrecksIt transit paperwork on their loads.

@SashaGrace @Bap33 I like the appearance, but I'd not order a new car in (anything) green; I actively prefer yellow, blue or red!

For reasons, I've been travelling in one regularly recently. Nice ride and quiet with it, plus I think you could hold a dance in the back!! One query though; Is it my laptop or is "dragon green" more of a yellow?

I use lithium grease rather than copper, but everyone is thinking much the same way.

This is normal behaviour for a vacuum servo. Brake bleeding is a waste of time and money unless you correct the siezure first, but I'd be entirely happy to use a one man bleeding kit.

Well at that rate, you need the switch, wiring loom, and VCDS to map it in, like on any TDi with drive by wire.

I think that's foetid dingo's kidneys; what may well be an issue is if the SDi has a cable throttle rather than drive by wire like the turbo diesels.

That's perfectly normal behaviour when the engine is off; you need the engine running to maintain servo vacuum and hence pedal consistency. I still say you have a separate problem with piston or caliper pin(s) seizing, causing excess wear on rear outer pads though.

Er, doesn't that mean you were paying BMW for the data rather than, say, Vodkafone?

That's what I was thinking too.

Big hint - Some of can see and do use the user information pane, which clearly sow Stewart as having a 1.4mpi.

As Steve says, I'd not try it with any Octy D unless it has a Bosch fuel pump.

Either this or the pistons are seized in the calipers based on what you've said. Either way, bleeding the calipers before sorting that and replacing the rear pads is a waste of time and money since you'll be treating the symptom of pedal sink without first curing the problem.

I wouldn't even guarantee it blowing Baltic if you set the demand temperature to "lo". It should blow below ambient ( value from trip computer) though.

@tbonez - Any fault codes? If you've got refrigerant, a working ventilator fan and a reasonably new pollen filter it should work.

@hitbul Try pressing the "Demist" button on the Climatronic panel. You should see (on the display), hear, and feel with a hand over an open vent, the fan speed pick up.

In which case you don't have a "normal car heater", you have a Climatronic climate control system. I've never known the fan on this system pack in completely.

Not from that no; the heater arrangement varies with trim level.

It weighs a ton, burns "fuel" like it's going out of fashion, and doesn't do what you want?

Try adding some milkmilk and sugarsugar?

Tyre should only be fitted to an Alfa Romeo?

@Kharl - You have a strut front suspension; this means that, when the springs compress (for whatever reason) the front camber angle increases. Replacing a tired or broken spring will always reduce the front camber angle on that side, and the driver's side spring almost always tires more than the passenger side one. so:- Before you do anything else, particularly before you drive the car again, check for a broken spring, with the note that they often break in the pig tail, which is up inside the strut tower. Your photo may suggest worn out stabiliser bushes; do you get clanking noises going over bumps?

Well, a cambelt (and waterpump if that's driven off the cambelt) change costs hundreds of pounds: A new engine costs thousands, but it's your money.

Agreed, subject to the note that I'd download Chrome, so as to not have to use either of the 2 worst browsers in the World for any reason.

I think (from thread and links) that maybe the outer chainring is thinner than the middle one? This may cause adverse wear with an over-width chain.