KenONeill

You have a fault with the 4x4 system, or possibly with an ABS sensor. You need a good diagnostics unit to get a VAG fault code to progress this.

Therefore the issue was not the brake switch.

And has been for at least 50 years.

Yes. You need VCDS, OBD11 or a dealership computer because it's a latching warning light.

Clean with plain Ajax and paper towel. Polish with a lint free duster. After this do not touch except for defogging with lint free dusters.

Entirely so, and I'd expect the salesman to be confident you can (and should if you have the funds) do so.

Key word "probably". Did you actually check that all 3 brake lights had apparently failed as well as the glow plug light flashing before changing the brake switch?

Short in wiper motor?

OK. Earlier I could see that you are Finnish, but the word pair looks Germanic or possibly Danish, so I couldn't even start. I'd agree with @pikpilot about the trapped wire behind the glovebox, and suspect that you've blown a fuze in the battery top fuzebox, not the fascia one.

No. not least because I don't know what language "das Handschuhfac" is in.

@tt1066 - Well, this should give you a reply notification. I typed @ followed by starting your user name and clicking on it when I saw it. Alternatively, using the "Quote" control generates a notification, and you should be automatically subscribed to a thread you start or post in.

Hunting between gears at or about speed limits is the single thing I've normally hated most about slush boxes.

I've had that myself (garage elsewhere); they then waived the fuel cost on discovering that the nearest garage who had diesel fuel was 25 miles away rather than 300 yards away as usual.

Agreed. And yet EuroKneecap arbitrarily drop their ratings because they add "new features" that they didn't even consider with the previous model.

That was the spring breaking.

Yes. Afraid I can't advise on costs, only ever having had to replace (easier) rear springs.

?? I thought all Furbies except the WRC cars were FWD, so don't have rear drive shafts.

Like the Porsche 911 too.

The standard bulbs supply a resistance value; unless the units you're fitting are explicitly designed, then they don't.

Yes. You need a resistance to make indicators flash at the correct circa 1Hz rate. If, for example, a normal front bulb blows, the rear bulb on that side will flash at more like 2Hz.

Sort of - A monograde oil of stated viscosity will always flow at a given speed at a specific temperature. As this temperature rises, the flow rate also rises, the lubricity falls but the viscosity should stay constant. With a multigrade oil, the MW rating is always measured at 0C, and the N (hot) rating at 100C. This has the effect of reducing the change of flow rate and of lubricity. So a 10W-50 multigrade will have more stable properties than a 20W-50, although they both have the same hot viscosity.

Yes. If your car isn't cursed with screened prongs, when the engine is COLD:- Open the spherical expansion bottle and look in. You should see 2 metallic prongs descending into the coolant. Get a big (say 5mm) flat blade screwdriver and scrape it down each prong 2 or three times. This should stop the fault recurring until it gets cold at the end of next year.

Cheers; I wasn't even dead certain what language that was. Even if I presumed French, is it French French, Swiss French or Walloon?

Given that the traffic in the other direction to the cammer is stopped at one point, I'd advise "avoid" because you can't just rely on your car and abilities to keep going.