KenONeill

Because it doesn't let the stealership empty your wallet into their's.

Correction inline, bold.

Look for a VAG fitted with the non-turbo SDi engine; Not sure about Audis, but Seats or VWs will work as well as Skodas.

If the engine starts losing power on full throttle, you need a new fuel filter, but the book change interval is way too low. Also, I'm not certain about the GSB, but it's not uncommon for reverse gear to be a longer ratio than first these days.

Software errors.

Or neither; as per @daftbugga I'd suspect the water pump issue and add that you'll also find threads about it on the Superb 2 and 3, Kodiaq, and possibly Kamiq and Koroq fora.

As per others in this thread, a/c cleaner and a fresh pollen filter, then actually use the a/c.

Use the search facilities here and on YouTube.

LV= do a multicar policy, and tend to be good to deal with.

Well yes, but that starts with "which engine and gearbox?" because some engines have belt drive and some chain drive for the camshaft, and chain drives don't have a belt replacement interval; similarly transmission oil varies with manual, slushbox auto or DSG... Also, a Skoda dealer may be able to report on servicing done to date...

Usual first step here is to do a linkage alignment.

Hi, and kudos. Aside from my present Skoda, I've worked on a Type 1 (1970, 1300 engine, owned by my Dad, but there were some jobs on the engine were easier with 11yo arms.

You'd be looking for something like 180bhp to get those revs and that speed.

On Dispatches tonight, a report that about 1/4 of Chargepoint Scotland chargers are out of order (or were in July and August).

also @thompson4984 There's more to that, and not in a good way. Not only is the light temperature straying into the near ultraviolet that you can't see, but most makers are also fitting a blue filter on the bulbs, which actually reduces red, and even green, range output.

@OverTheHill Can't help but I feel your pain on both systems.

Well, if you tell us which gearbox your car has...

Have you tried actually reading the warranty instead of relying on phone calls to people who may well not know exactly what it says?

I still do this with the trip meter, with a trip computer in the car. To put how inaccurate this can be over a single journey, I did half a tank (roughly) commuting, then did a trip twice the distance to pick up a visitor from a local ferry port (so same driver, same car and mostly the same roads) and came back with a longer predicted range than I left with.

Other than possibly Carista, those are "dealer level".

They'll make the ride harder and increase road noise relative to the standard 17s.

It's a latching warning and needs a dealer level computer to reset. You Chube living down to that nickname if it claims otherwise.

Not as such, but they're one of the names I was trying to remember. As for Emerald, maybe ask @Mankee ; He used to work for Practical Performance Car, and Dave Walker wrote columns for them.

Maybe an issue with their computer then?

For sure, but you don't need a DCO manifold; Webcon (UK distributors) made a lot of direct replacement kits with downdrafts and adapter plates that let you retain the standard manifold and air cleaner.