KenONeill

Blatantly copied and pasted from Wikipedia:-

Never driven a Superb, but my best guess is that you should use the rear fog light to supplement the standard reversing candles at that rate. See up thread for reasoning.

Which is exactly what I did when trying to reverse a Au'tin "maestro" into a space in the Thistle Centre in Stirling. I wouldn't have needed the rear fogs in either the previous Cortina V or the subsequent BX.

I've driven a number of cars down the years. Most of them had 2x21W reversing lights, and illumination varied from "did the Sun just come up behind me?" to "black cat in a coal mine on a cloudy night". The difference was in the reflector design, which is no help unless you take this as an indication that you won't get better but still legal aftermarket bulbs. (and that's without being clear whether the subject vehicle is a Mercedes as per your data or a Superb 2 as per the forum name).

If you actually believe that, you clearly need honest men and true to enforce Weights and Measures legislation. In the UK, giving short measure is a quick route to very large fines.

None of the above. That said, the click off of the pump is controlled by back pressure from the fuel tank, and gives a pretty consistent content level across a range of pump sites. Yes, I have tested that, across a number of cars, locations, weather conditions, and even on both petrol and diesel.

Key word in bold. You've accused various groups of criminal activities, why is the leap of logic from "all mechanics are crooks" to "sponsors want results favourable to their product" apparently beyond you?

I have difficulty with the idea that anyone dislikes breathing so much that they normally keep their car in recirc mode. In any event that only changes the initial state of the system, not the logic that when you press the button it changes to the other state.

What's to understand? You press "recirc" the recirculation flap closes off the outside intake; press recirc again and the intake opens' press "hotter" and more air is fed through heater exchanger; fan speed up and the fan blows "harder" etc.

You don't have to remove it to check the inside for cracking.

Do you feel competent to inspect the belt inside and outside for cracking and/or chunking, and to measure its width? Would yo trust your mate of a mate to do this inspection, and honestly tell you whether he thinks the belt is badly worn?

Key word underscored. If your rack end (or shaft end) are too large diameter for the gaiter, you should be able to trim it to a larger section.

Firstly, is this an actual or perceived issue? My fuel gauge only reads 7/8 when filled to the pump click and then left overnight for the fuel to come right up to ambient temperature and use some of the expansion space. Never mind what the gauge reads; the low fuel light comes on with about 50 miles available range left.

The best web/CCTV cameras are by GoPro.

I'd agree that the first thing to do is to check the battery terminals, and then the earth connections.

Well, I didn't watch the video. I did read the COSHH data sheet though, and it contains no noticeable amount of any known lubricant.

The Superb is a bigger car in every sense.

No I didn't. I said $scale degrees on both sides of the equation.

And I make 30F degrees * 5/9 to be 16.67C degrees.

Tees-side is tantamount to Yorkshire!

CVT with a (Honda) petrol engine is "quite nice" because it's rarely in the wrong gear. OTOH Scalextric cars don't have gears.

Well, the low speed fan will run if you put the A/C on, and I think the high speed fan idles in the slipstream when not running...

I'm seeing a lot of Mazda below the beltline, and a fair bit of Mercedes E or S class above the beltline and behind the B post.

A long time, particularly at this time of year. My 1.9TDi could literally idle for hours without the fan running.

That's the point; where were the electronics, particularly a small glass bead thing, sourced?