KenONeill

Slowly I'd have thought.

I've never failed an MoT on a broken incandescent bulb. Every test centre I've used would change the bulb for me and bill for "$new_fitting light bulb". YMMV, but if it does, maybe change your garage?

Still at the back of the grid?

@darwinjake As @gumdrop says above, with the note that you must reset the TPMS after fitting new tyres.

Let me rewrite this as I read it - Can you reassemble the ignition switch without the ignition switch?

Your engine may be running slightly rich then. Oil smoke would be blue and actually smell of oil.

What colour is the "smoke"? What, if anything, does it smell of?

Fairly sure that depends on the make of alternator (not stated).

You mean a normal torque converter auto, not a DSG?

Ideal, even at that price (it's 40 years since I last needed one).

You absolutely need that new filler cap. It's an MOT failure to not have one when/if you get that length, and meantime "using an unroadworthy vehicle" if the wrong cop stops you for any reason.

That should be right; I normally use a 1/4" drive set, unless working on something like a British Laylow A series where the set screws are bigger than my 12mm socket.

Hey Lezley, thanks for the clear history. That really helps. I think your neighbour has one or more failed diodes in the rectifier part of the alternator. My recommendation would be that they contact a good local garage or independent VAG specialist, or an auto electrician if there is one in your area, to confirm the diagnosis, and get a decent price on the replacement.

Put the video someplace like YouTube, and link to it from here.

So his rear brakes will be over-powered when/if he fits van rear cylinders.

I see what you mean, but note my post from 3 hours back. We can't actually tell which door needs adjusting from these photos.

Just a thought here; does the van have a different specification rear line limiter for the brakes to what the estate does? And, indeed, what are the plated towing weights for both vehicles?

I'm fairly sure that door has been replaced, making me think there's a replacement in there. Reasoning includes (from your photo) missing roof edge seal, different finish window frame, I think the window sill on that door looks slightly out of line... Try looking along the body from a fine angle for ANY repeat ANY signs of a panel misalignment (up/down or in or out at either end) and/or any difference at all in the alignment of the metallic particles in the paint. This is your job because you have physical access to your car,

Indeed, that's the immo icon.

Ok, I'm talking Octavia, but on mine it's a red outline of a car with an open door,

I should have said, "loose" tends to mean loose enough to be not even finger tight.

Likewise; pretty much anything I've said is my interpretation of Dominic's report of what Halfrauds told him. I'd suggest raising a complaint if that wouldn't involve being without the vehicle whilst it was investigated.

Also @Dominicnp So how did they establish that there was corrosion in the brake lines then? I'd be surprised to find any vehicle 3 years old or more that doesn't have non-weakening external surface corrosion of the brake pipes, but most people do not have to replace brake pipes every year or 3.

LIE!! In no way can a reservoir cap in the engine bay be responsible for rear disc corrosion. I'd need to see the parts to comment either way, but you may need new rear discs and pads. (pair of discs, new pads because the old pads will be scored and won't bed to new discs) As to the brake pipes, did Halfrauds actually tell you what percentage of water is in the hydraulic fluid?

Opening the bonnet disables the front wash-wipe, but leaves the rear operational, and vice versa.