KenONeill

My Octy 1 has never asked for a code. It has the OEM Skoda radio-cassette head and CD stacker.

They don't need one; ACP has stored the radio code in EEPROM in the main body ECU since the Octy 1 was introduced. The fact of a new battery does need programming to the car though.

What's your price to change, not your present offer? Bear in mind that your metadata includes "lots of bitz", which I'm taking to mean optional extras.

The fitted maker and grade should be literally written on the insulators,

Well if it's linked to the ramp, I find myself wondering about a broken spring, probably right up at the pig tail.

Why would a petrol engine have a diesel particulate filter?

That reads like 2 faults:- You need new front brake pads (and maybe discs but I'd want to see those first). You probably have a failed ABS sensor. If those were VCDS codes I'd be fairly sure they would tell you which corner to work on. You need a moisture content check to confirm/deny this, but you may need to change the brake fluid.

Fairly sure the leak is somewhere in the rear hatch seal.

The water pump on the 1.9D (all tunes, even the PDs) is driven from the cambelt.

Step for several hints! Like widdershins or anti-widdershins ramp, is the clunk associated lock going on, coming off, or indeed with the ramp rather than the steering?

No; it does show that your indy replaced the retaining clips.

No damage no. I just don't think you'll make 250 km on just the battery before the EMS decides to turn the engine off, oh and you'll get lots of actually spurious fault codes in the EMS memory.

Not far. Quite aside from the electric PAS, the engine management and ABS both need a minimum voltage, and you'll get maybe 10 miles before the car starts doing "graceful degradation" of systems like turning off the radio and ventilation fans, and throwing ABS and ASR warnings, based on my experience with a disconnected alternator control wire.

Worth doing even this time of year, because AC is also an air drying system.

Which is about enough to confirm my suspicion that the issue was a bad bead seal.

Was that a nail through tread, a torn valve or a broken bead seal? All possible causes, and which it is is not detected by any TPMS.

That is a deliberate and selective misquote. I repeat with additional emphasis " Direct TPMS is no better than indirect at locating the actual position of an individual leak".

Why? The OP realises and agrees the fact of pressure loss. Direct TPMS is no better than indirect at locating the actual position of an individual leak.

As others, my first thought was of losing air through the bead "seal". This isn't always obvious with a "dunk tank".

A standard issue "play" > symbol you mean?

The minimum delivery statement is correct, because that's the minimum amount the pump electro-mechanics can deliver accurately. The pumps are calibrated using a calibrated 25l container.

I'm with you; Lane Enforce can not see if there are compression ruts that you are driving to the side of.

I don't know the factory values, but they have definitely corrected a couple of values that were flagged up as out, and would have caused the wear you report on the front end.

Non Commento!! I've driven a couple of Honda CVTs, and they just sorted out getting peak torque revs and held that as long as they could, which is about what I do anyway.

I thought the W16 was presently unique to the Bugatti Veyron and Chiron? OTOH the V10 is available in Audis and Lambourghinis, so why not put it in something attractive looking?