KenONeill

I can confirm that this applies with Jeep's keyless ignition.

Edit inline.

@TheWanderer - To clarify, I like the tone of your e-mail, rather than the fact that you felt compelled to write it.

I don't honestly think that run-flats or space-savers area are a good option for anything except short-distance urban commuter cars.

Can't hurt anyway. But don't forget the filter.

Well, that would be where I'd start, and probably finish since that or match the SIMMs you don't have were how we always bought RAM back in the day.

Yeah, that's my experience of failure insurance too; they will try to disallow and/or delay claims by more or less any means possible.

Personal account - a friend's neighbour had an S100. Every 2 or 3 months he dismantled the engine for no adequately explored reason. The point is that I'd not assume "repair work" in the sense of actual replacement or enhancement of components.

This is a new definition of "emergency"; one with which I have not previously been acquainted.

Ok, you need a new flex pipe; they don't tend to respond well to welding or exhaust bandages, but a bandage should last years on the back section.

Buy an exhaust bandage, and use that to seal the leak short term. Long term you'll need a new exhaust section.

Yes, as far as it goes. Since a typical running temperature is around 90C, that will translate into the engine getting hotter before it boils, and make no other difference.

That sounds plausible, but again is difficult to diagnose with physical access to the vehicle.

Also @Louise1512_ Very strongly seconded. And just as well you looked Louise; remote diagnosis will always pursue the 2 likely failures before the unlikely one.

Well, if it is the slave, the one fitted with the clutch change was defective (but very much the right thing to do).

Fairly certain it's not the slave leaking then. A professional mechanic mate of mine has said that the master cylinder often goes weeks after the slave was replaced. Just to treble check the other thing it might be, are then any issues with the brake pedal (travel and/or weight and/or sponginess having increased)

For sure. More power on stock dampers will be swallowed up by an increase in squat, body roll and maybe tyre squeal.

The reflector is sealed to the cover. So yes you need to replace both.

Have you checked that the driver's door drains are clear?

@langers2k last has given me an idea. Does your car possess a throttle damper? One of mine did, and it held the throttle open when I lifted off.

"Gas" dampers are more correctly known as "gas pressurised" dampers. There is no benefit to them unless you drive fast enough on bumpy surfaces to cause damper fade.

52 registration. So post facelift but a ways from the mk2.

Could this be related to turning tight corners, probably with the relevant indicator active?

I prefer using one of the blue readymix screenwashes, that will stop freezing down as low as -20C.