TMB

It doesn't matter that you drained the oil. There will be residual oil in the lifters that needs some time between adjustments to squeeze out.

It doesn't matter. The 1.4, 8 valve engines are all the same for our purposes.

There are no actual clearances, you just follow that procedure.

Make sure you leave about ten mins between setting each individual valve to allow time for the oil to bleed out of the hydraulic lifter, otherwise it won't work (as I soon I found out). Don't move the crankshaft after adjustment, leave the adjustment tension to squeeze the oil out for at least ten mins. Only after this, turn the crankshaft & move on to the next valve. Do the same for each valve. If you don't do this you will find that the valves get held open resulting in no compression and potential damage to valves/pistons.

I can help. I've done the head gasket on mine. Give me a few mins and I'll post the valve clearance stuff.

I bought some cheapy ones of fleabay. They work great but seem to lack the damping during opening that the original ones had, so I have to steady the tailgate with my hand when opening so it doesn't open too violently. Doesn't bother me in the slightest, though.

Skoda dealers used to be very helpful back when they were small family businesses before VAG swallowed them up. I was on first-name terms with the parts guy at my dealer. If he couldn't get me something new he would rummage around to see if he had a used part. Even got a gearbox off him once.

Skoda dealer.

I only found out this happens after fitting new brakes and giving the brake pedal a press with my left foot while still on the throttle with my right. The engine power was promptly cut out by the ECU resulting in a sudden unexpected lurch

Bolts are part number N 90892101

M10 XZN/triple square (12-point).

No problem 🙂

^ OK.

To remove the connector plug, push the whole plug upwards to relieve strain on the catch while also pulling the tab downwards to release plug.

Here's a pic of my passenger front door. The yellow arrow shows where the connector plug is fitted to the lock unit.

By the way, you don't have to remove the window glass like he does, you can temporarily tape it in place while you have the silver panel off.

Yes, the silver panel has to come off and the regulator disconnected from the window glass at the two clamps. Depending on the year of your car, the silver panel is either bolted on, or after 2004 is pop riveted.

I never thought about locking it from the inside. If it works on the Octy it should work on a Fabia. EDIT: I'm not convinced that leaving the lock disconnected wouldn't have an adverse effect on the rest of the system as the locks are linked to the windows, interior lights and god knows what.

Here's a video of lock unit replacement....

It wouldn't be able to be locked with the key. Turning the key actuates microswitches to trigger the locking motor which won't happen with the plug disconnected from the lock unit. The door would be permanently unlocked.

....and tell you it's knackered even if it isn't

Yeah, ratchet strap should do it.

Skoda Estelles & Rapids had a saddle tank with just one sender unit making for amusing fuel level readings when in motion.

Good quality washing up liquid is extremely slippery. You could try some of that on the pins. I've previously used it with good results.