TMB

My own feeling is that it's fine and needs nowt else doing to it.

Can't really tell if it's actually jiggling about from the video. I would have thought that if the whole pulley was moving about that oil would leak past the oil seal. Have you pulled it about to check for play without the belt on?

Well done, Pete 👍 What is happening with the crank bearings?

Early cars had a 19mm allen-key type nut and later ones a 36mm, 12 point nut. Early nut is part number 6E0407395A and later nut is 6Q0 407 396 B. They are interchangeable. You need a thin-wall socket for the 36mm nut. A normal socket won't go in the hub recess properly. I managed by taking a grinder to a normal one and thinning the wall. Torque for 36mm nut is 50Nm + 45°

Hello 🙂 Very impressive 👍

juanse, your English is so good. Are you Colombian?

Have you compared the old pads to the new ones to see if they are exactly the same? I've had pattern ones that needed a tiny amount filed off them even after cleaning the caliper up.

I learned a new word

I fixed someone's lack of clicking indicators by wiring a relay to each side of the indicators so that it clicks and sounds exactly like the usual indicator clicking. Alternatively, the cluster speakers can be bought on ebay but you need to solder it in to the cluster circuit board.

Yeah, thinking about it again, the fork has touched the fingers mainly in one place, suggesting that the fingers haven't been in an even plane.

I don't think this has been caused by assembly but something looks to have happened with the release bearing to me. It looks like it's moved back for whatever reason, allowing the fork to touch the fingers.

I'm amazed it didn't make more noise. At least you've got to the bottom of the problem even if it's a lot more work than you wanted. Never a dull moment with cars. What code is the box, Pete?

Two of the fingers look snapped, yes? The release bearing looks too far back in the fork, was it not making an awful noise?

Ah 😁

No, there's no toggle. It might be faulty switches or a problem with the drivers window motor as it contains the electronics. It could also be broken wires inside the rubber door bellows.

Bugger. That's a shame ☹️

Strange how the lengths are different. Looks promising though 👍

^ Well done

Gates make very good belts. They are even used in Gtech vacuum cleaners and other stuff.

I just soldered some new bits of wire in. Been fine since 2013.

He said as useful as a Toc H Lamp, meaning that they are crap 😛 Toc H Lamp...

Deffo worth checking.

Do you have a scanner to read fault codes? You can get cheap ones on ebay that work OK for basic stuff.

Does the immobiliser light flash? If so, it could be cracked solder joints on the instrument cluster circuit board, which is not uncommon. They can make intermittent contact and be affected by ambient temperature. Take the cluster out and open it up to check for cracked joints which you can reflow with a soldering iron. Instructions for removing and opening the cluster can be found in this thread (scroll down on the page)... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/381391-service-reset/page/2/ Pins 1 &17 are the immobiliser joints.... Spray instrument cluster pins and plugs with contact cleaner on refitting.

Just replacing it is the best idea. They can drift out of spec. Strongly advise only getting a genuine one as cheaper ones can be rubbish. Part number for the sensor for your 2005 BLT Polo is 06A 919 501 A Genuine one here for example..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-2-PIN-WATER-COOLANT-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-06A919501A/192359064591?epid=2288068336&hash=item2cc97e640f:g:hJAAAOSwb3lZ80AD