Ecomatt

Has your car got the driver profile settings? I say that because if you drive in eco, the air con has an eco mode.

Mapped or not mapped given as standard the S3 has 304bhp and 295lbs of torque. I am guessing he was not trying too hard. My mapped VRS (as nimble as it is) with 210 to 220bhp would struggle to keep up.

It still might be the tyres as they are old and worn. Depending on the compound of the tyre and tread design can make them very noisy.

The subframe has to come off and extracted from underneath. It is a pain to do and best left to a garage with a ramp. Once clean it would last another 150,000 if your car is working correctly. Certainly longer than you would keep it.

I would not focus on what someone else managed to fix as the fault on your car maybe different. The common causes are on that link so that is where I would start. Or take it to a VAG specialist who can diagnose it for you.

https://obd2pros.com/dtc-codes/p2000/ Try looking at what it says in the above link. How many miles has your car done?

Any reason why you are changing the whole suspension arm? You can get the bush swapped and pressed in a lot cheaper. Also is that from Autodoc? If not you can get parts alot cheaper from them. Dont forget the swivel bearings on the suspension as well.

The engine runs fine and is quiter once upto temp. No strange behaviour or higher oil temps etc. I will put 5w 30 back in at some point purely because I prefer to have the correct grade in. I just havent gottent around to it yet with work and getting ready for our 2nd child who should be born in about 4 weeks or so.

It isnt VW longlife but is BMW longlife and is what is usually put in the PD engines. But it does make me think that the 30 weight oil is too thin for the engine. Since putting in the 40 weight it has hardly used any oil at all compared to when the 30 weight was in.

I would find a good example of each model and take it for a test drive. That is the only real way you will find out which suits your needs better.

Rather than start another oil topic I have dropped in on this one. I went to do my oil change last month and put in engine cleaner. Only after that I got the oil out of the box and realised that the wrong oil had been delivered. I ordered Miller Oils 5w 30 but had been sent 5w 40. I was at the point of no return as I had already put in the engine cleaner in so had to use the 5w 40. I checked it would be safe to use with the dpf and as it was mid saps and not full saps it was dpf safe. I know VW say the oil must be low saps but the Millers Oil 5w 30 has the 'meets 507 spec' with the mid saps. I contacted the shop and they were understanding and sorted me with the correct oil. I had planned to swap the oil the following week but weather and work prevented me. I only put in the 5 litres as I already had top up Millers in the garage. So far after 1300 miles of driving the oil light has not come on for top up. The oil level has barely budged where as with the 5w 30 spec oil, I would have to top up after about 700 miles. The dpf is not filling up any quicker and economy has not dropped with the thicker oil. It makes me wonder if these engines should have been run on 40 weight oil rather that trying to be too economical and running on a thinner oil?

You can check it on devices like OBDEleven and VCDS etc

I would be going Golf R. Yes they are boring to drive but they are quick/safe and will hold the value better. Plus they come in an estate form so ideal practical 300+ bhp family car.

It should say on the engine bay of your car 👍

I mapped my VRS TDi and did it for improved driveability and have not looked back. Mine was done by Superchips Bluefin so I can always reinstall the standard map should I need to. Plus it was only £345 all in. Mapping done right is the one if the best mods to do.

The EGT will vary depending on how hard you drive the car. Driven normally the EGT will be within normal range. To get EGT that high you would need to drive it hard for quite a long time.

Also the CUNA/CUPA are fitted with balancing shafts to help reduce vibration.

Same here as I have a 3yr old and a son on the way in August. I am fitting Eibach Pro Springs along with Bilstein B4 dampers. From all reports the Eibachs are less fidgety than the standard springs and only a very slight drop. Plus the front o/s spring paint has split and will no doubt lead to a snapped spring from rust at some point. Srandard springs are reallt cheap and easy enough to refit. If you genuinely like car then I would haggle with the garage. It took me 6 months to find mine and the winter pack was one of the features I wanted. Good luck with your search 👍

My advice is that you can always refit standard springs or ask the garage to do it as part of the deal. Clearly that car has been looked after by its condition so the fact it has been lowered would not put me off as it can be reversed easily. It is also very well specced.

If you are after a map for better economy then I would not bother. You will spend circa £350+ for a reputable map to gain a few extra mpgs. If you work out how many miles you would need to recouo the cost of the map before you start making savings it would be around 4 years or so worth of driving. I dud have a formula to work it out but cant place it. However if you are just after better driveability then I would say do it. Mine is mapped by Superchips Bluefin and is very smooth when driven normally. I can easily get 55mpg+ when driven sensibly. Like any other car if you use the power the mpgs drop. Personally I think it improves the car and makes it how Skoda should have released it.

In legal terms they are, as I said if it was written into the contract then it is legally binding. I have a lot of experience with these matters and my opinion is based on legal knowledge. I am not commenting anymore on the matter as I am going round in circles explaining the law to people who know my job better than me.

He did not know it was faulty but suspected it to be. Two very different things. We can argue about it till the cows come home but the Government made the law not me. I am just pointing that out. The garage should have checked the car was running correctly before the sale unless they specifically wrote it in to the deal. Buying private you have no protection and garaged count om the fact that people dont complain about faults on cars after purchase and site our used car warranty does not cover it etc.

This is old school train of thought with car purchases. Everyone treats garages like what they say is gospel and cannot be challenged. Well morales dont come into it. It is business and the garages are the ones who are laughing. But each to their own. Guess all those people who have purchased new cars in the past have never taken a car back for something to be fixed under warranty. Same thing with the Consumer Rights Act 2015. It is a law the garages have to abide by in business. Like we all have to abide by laws in public. I do not see why people protect garages as much as the garage were happy enough to take his money and sell a car with a known fault. How morally right is that? Yes they reduced the price like you can with ex TV demonstration models etc. But the same rights still stand in law new or used to the produxt. People just dont bother using them as usually they have no idea how to.

Moral backgrounds have no bearing on the legal responsibility of garages. So you buy a TV and it goes wrong after 3 months. Do you get it repaired yourself or contact the shop you purchased it from? A car is nothing different and is a product. That is what the Consumer Rights Act 2015 is all about. It gives buyers protection from dodgy dealers who absolve themselves of any responsibility.

However a car has to be fit for purpose for 6 months from the date of purchase. Clearly the car is not fit for purpose. The burden of proof is with the garage to prove the fault was not there before they sold it. After 6 monthd the owner has to prove it was which can be a bit more difficult. I am from a legal background of nearly 20 years so know what I am talking about on these issues.