Ecomatt

First port of call is to get it scanned as it will have raised a fault code even if it isn't static. The best way is either through vcds, obdeleven or a VAG specialist. Equally if you have any dealer warranty I would let them sort it as I do not know what year your car is.

I would check to see when your car last did a regeneration. It should say distance since last done. Also I would adapt the egr valve to reset it. Very easily done on these cars as you don't have to enter predefined numbers. Just find it in the engine control unit and click adapt. With the calculated soot level you will need to either do a service regeneration if the numbers don't come down after normal driving. Or have the dpf cleaned. The figures are only estimated and chances are the dpf is more blocked than what the numbers are. You can buy dpf cleaner which reduces the temp of the dpf when running and allows a passive regen. When blocked the dpf gets super hot and safety programmes kick in to prevent a fire so it stops a regen.

If you watch this video from about 12:00 mins onwards, it tells you how the coolant circuits work as there are a few.

Have you thought about fitting the RS3 brake ducts? Very cheap and cost about £28. They do actually work and keep the disc and pads nice and cool. The bonus is that they simply zip tie over the arm and are fitted in a matter of seconds. https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/425-genuine-rs3-8v-brake-ducts.html

The noise is the oil pump and usually it quietens down when warmed up. I have seen a massive reduction in noise since I put Wynns oil cleaner in and switched to Millers Oil from Quantum. The noise is only very slightly there on idle.

You could try fitting anti castor and camber bushes which should help with wheel hop. Uprated engine bushes. A Quaife ATB/ LSD. It depends how much you want to spend really. Sometimes it is better to de-tune a car so you can actually drive it quickly, rather than spinning the wheels and going no where. Or have the map altered to have the torque reduced in 1st and 2nd to help with traction.

I wouldn't have thought bushes would be an issue because unless the bush is damaged because of a manufacturer defect, then bushes generally are a wear and tear item. That being said I would speak to Skoda themselves, ask and get it put in writing if there is no issue.

Only tip I have is make sure the engine is fully upto temp before you take it in. Also a few harder stops to get some heat into the disc and pads helps.

Well after swearing blind that I would not modify this car I finally purchased a stage 1 map. I opted for Superchips Bluefin again, having had 6 cars previously tuned by them. I did look at Darkside and Racingline but the price of the map was very competitive and only £321. Plus I could remove the map myself at any point. I have not had the chance to open it up yet but initial impressions are the car is a lot smoother on start up and driving. It is effortless on the road and the DSG seems to be a lot smoother with the extra power. Overtaking is easy on the motorway but I generally don't drive fast as I normally have my 2 year old in the car. Overall it has exceeded my expectation and worth the money

I use the same pressure with no issues or uneven tyre wear.

@pab567 should be able to assist with this.

If you purchased it from a garage you could take it back to them under the Consumer Rights Act if 2015, as the car should be fit for purpose for 6 months from date of purchase.

This is a good call. You would be better investing in better brakes or opting for a 340mm swap like on the pfl one like mine.

Stage 2 will cost a lot more as usually a new turbo and fuel pump is required. There is an article on Darkside Developments about upgrades but you won't get much more power. The max they extracted was 286bhp and that cost a fair few thousand.

I would just do another basic reset on the hearbox. You don't need a new gearbox but you have reset the parameters in which it works so it won't work as smoothly.

You can up the width to 235 35 R19 to get a bit more edge protection. In fairness mine have been on potholes and never yet buckled (famous last words). I use Goodyear Asy 5 and haven't had any tyre wall issues. Some tyres are softer walled and they can cause issues with either damage to the wall itself or lead to the wall squashing so much the pothole bangs against the edge of the rim. You would be better of buying new. That way you know they will be fine. Or buy used but get them professionally checked if you were going to refurbish them anyway.

It is the same part number so the same glow plug. They are easy to do.

I wouldn't bother filling it as it won't make any difference to how it operates.

You simply unplug the harness, which pulls off easier with a hook or bent nose pliers. Then it simply unscrews. Don't be too scares of undoing the plug but use smooth motion with the wrench when undoing it. When fitting just torque it to 12nm. If you don't have a torque wrench, basically as soon as it won't go any further down; a very very tiny pull on the ratchet and you will be somewhere there. The others glowplugs are are 17nm to torque.

I would not modify or alter the car whilst in the warranty period.

Are you holding onto the steering wheel?

In the UK they do not do one. The only one I can think of would be the VRS 4wd TDi. It might be badged differently in the rest of world.

The Scout is basically a 4wd version which has slightly raised suspension. It is sold as an all road type vehicle and is widely used by emergency services in the UK because of this. Very nice cars and almost got one but I preferred the VRS for looks.

Currently Racing Line are doing deals with Engine and DSG map. I did ask about the DSG map and Racingline replied the 184 does not need a DSG map as it can deal with the extra torque without issue. These can be installed at places like Awesome GTi and Volksworkshop in the North West.

It is a fault code relating to the boost solenoid on the turbocharger. Most likely will need replacing.