Ecomatt

Very sad story and one downside to the DSG. Most garages (as we all know) don't have the mechanical understanding of the car. They all work from if broken go page 12. If working go to page 2 etc. Couples with the very complex nature of coding and what codes work or cause issues. Under that the software itself that powers the code etc. Cars are too complex now.

Hence why I said software issue. I would get rid of the factory tcu map and go with one that has proven to fix it. It won't matter how many times the car is taken back to Skoda because if that is all the software they can use, then they will just say it is working within manufacturer spec.

I have driven cars the dq200 box. Personally did not find it any issue with it but that might be luck or before the issue presented itself If it was my car I would be speaking to a tuning company and have an aftermarket tcu map applied once out of warranty.

You appeared to be a little confused by my post. What I was saying is that with any start in first gear there will be slip. If there wasn't the engine would just bog down and most likely stall. Slip is another word for engaging the clutch. Too much slip and you burn your clutch. Lovely smell. Too little slip and you risk stalling or bogging down when setting off. To me the long known slip issue is all software related and poor programming from VAG. The TCU is trying to work out on the fly from how much throttle is applied, how much torque is being requested of the engine. Them it has to work out how best to apply that to gear whilst maximising the cars launch and not causing it to stall or put too much strain on the gearbox. All that in a fraction of a second and then constatlntly monitoring it over and over many times. Knowing most car manufacturers they will always go with safer option and reduce the amount of strain on the gearbox by torque limits. If you have ever driven auto Ferrari of old they were really bad for slip in first gear. But that was to stop people being too keen when maneuvering and crashing.

It depends on what you call clutch slip and what is acceptable. There will always be clutch slip in first gear as it will work between bite and slip. Pretty much the same as a manual would. You don't just dump the clutch when setting off as the engine would bog down and most likely stall. Although I would ask if the dsg was reset as part of the change though as it might just need a reset.

This is a warranty issue as the car is covered under the manufacturers warranty and that includes batteries. If they say not I would raise it with the dealer principal.

A lot of money for a lump of metal on the driveway every month. I used to pay that for a car till I realised they aren't worth it. That is almost a mini mortgage in itself! I now pay under £200 a month for my car payment, tax and insurance for my 65 plate VRS. Never again will I be daft enough to pay over the odds.

The heated screen is part of the winter pack. It took me around 6 months to find my car as there weren't many blue diesel VRS with DSG, 19s Extremes and the 340mm brakes plus the winter pack.

My advice is to have a drive in one and see if you like it. I like mine and am on my third. But then I have a family so I need the large boot.

I know a few who have had the update and they reported the car drove fine, no issues with economy and actually felt a bit smoother. My car has not yet been flagged as needing it.

Technical background All affected TDI vehicles may experience reduced catalyst activity with increasing mileage as a result of the ageing process of the catalytic converter. This may lead to less optimal performance during the initial warm-up phase as the vehicle ages. Remedy On the affected vehicles, if the customer agrees, the software of the engine control unit must be updated and on vehicles with dual clutch gearbox (except 1.6l DQ Octavia) also the gearbox control unit must be updated. The software update addresses this potential issue via a correction value. The software update improves how the vehicle behaves during the warm-up phase by more accurately taking into account the aging process of the catalytic converter. This helps to stabilise the vehicle’s emissions throughout its lifetime. In addition, we anticipate that the software update will reduce real world emissions (measure of National Diesel Forum Germany). Please inform the customer that the software update does not have any negative effects on the vehicle’s official fuel consumption figures, CO2 emission figures, engine performance, maximum torque, noise emissions, the durability of the engine or exhaust gas after treatment system.

The 23A recall for our cars is not about emmisions but about reducing the wear on the catalytic convertor during the warm up phase. I have a printout saved on my phone somewhere. If I can find it I will upload it.

One pump is driven by the timing belt and the other water pump is the auxiliary pump and that is electrically powered. You only need change the mechanical pump. You can try contacting your local TPS stores as some sell to private customers. Also try Autodoc.

The problem with dyno or rolling roads is if the operator has not input the correct atmospheric pressure etc. This can lead to wildly out of spec readings either higher or lower. Different types of gearboxes will have different loss factors as well. Even types of tyre and pressure can have an effect on readings or how tight the car is strapped to the rollers themselves. As long as the car is running fine with no fault codes etc, in spec economy then I wouldn't worry about it.

Since changing to Millers Oil I have noticed the DPF does not fill up as quick as it did with the Quantum. My driving style is still the same so not sure why it would be any different.

I would use a scan tool like VCDS, OBDELEVEN to see if any fault codes are stored. It might be the DPF pressure sensor gone faulty. Either way I would not continue to drive it as you may cause further damage by doing so.

I would get your car scanned with either VCDS or OBDELEVEN etc and see if there are any fault codes stored. That is always a good place to start as some codes are stored but are not static so won't raise a dashboard light.

The rear bolt is still accessible from the rear if you lay down on the floor. You can then torque it up to the correct specification.

There is a setting which auto switches on the heated screen in the heater menu.

I would always use a torque wrench to ensure the bolt is tightened correctly. That way you know it is fitted correctly with no chance of either working loose or shearing of from being overtightened.

I don't know the exact figure but I would just torque up the lower bolt when the car is on the ground.

Just buy a haynes manual for the mk7 Golf. The Octavia is exactly the same.

If your car is running rich I would check lambda (oxygen) sensor values. If they are reading low then the car will over fuel. My guess is one of the sensor are on the way out.

Different shape. How badly is the dent as dent master may be able to repair it cheaper.

I would get it scanned to see what it is. It might get worse if you wait and lead onto other issues