D.FYLAKTOS

The cost for a copy here in GR is about 25€.

Not common, if the immobiliser is ''on the way to grave'' you would have problem with the 2nd key also. The solution is to go to a well-known locksmith which works with cars, will reprogramme the old or in worst case based on the 2nd will make you a new one. By the way have you ever changed the battery in the first (the ''old'') key?

Škoda Auto Area served Worldwide (except Japan, US and Canada)

I have and OBD11 device just for simple scanning and code erasing, i am not car-electrician but @Thefeliciahacker has a VCDS programme and more experience on this matter.

More pictures and text here https://skoda-virt.cz/cz/clanky/elektrika/8248-bmm-spi-felicia-1-3-to-s105-rapid/?gotopost=3325708

This is helpful? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/515068-code-readerscanner/#findComment-5772995

KONI Shock Absorber Repair For service, repair and restoration of Koni road and race dampers. https://www.koniuk.co.uk/service-repair/

I put a piece of electrical tape (upside down) to see if i close the hood then the activated carbon cabin filter will contact firmly with the oval shape rubber seal? The yellow mark shows the exactly point that i put that tape, i close the hood and yes, the tape stuck to the sheet so no gap, things are OK. 👍

For 15 euro per unit i can make at least 8 "sheets" so this filter will last 4 years if i use 2 of them per year. The "seal test" was successful, more in a future post with photos.

I took that activated carbon cabin filter and disassembled it, measure and cut it. creating a ''sheet'' which i put it via adhesive tape beneath the factory hood oval shape hole thus ''filtering'' the incoming air before goes to the cabin. For sure this patent can not compared with a factory cabin filter but it's better than nothing and far better than the sponge-solution that i had. What's next? A sealing test and a real-condition air flow test (since i don't have the proper equipment to do more experiments).

So you have one key for the ignition and another one for fuel cap-trunk door?

Motul Specific 0101 10W-50 110282 VOLKSWAGENDensity at 20°C 0.854 Viscosity at 40°C 121.3 Viscosity at 100°C 17.8 HTHS viscosity at 150°C 4.6 Viscosity Index 163.0 Flash point 244.0 °C Pour point -45.0 °C / -49.0 °C Q8 Formula F1 10W-50Pour point -33°C Flash point 210°C Viscosity at 40°C 119 Viscosity at 100°C 17.6 Density 0.86 g/cm³ at 15°C

I have use in the past Amsoil, excellent product. Red Line were and are far the more expensive engine oils in the GR market, for example 1 bottle of 10W-40 (basically is 946 ml) costs 25,00 € so the cost for 5 of them is 125 € plus the oil filter plus the work from the mechanic and the cost for an oil change is skyrocket.

Have i posted this in the past? I can't remember. https://www.zimmerframeracing.com/koni_shocks/index.htm Koni rebuild in a BMW motorcycle. Another happy Koni user.

I have different car than yours but i have Koni shock absorbers installed for many years. Rebuilt them in 2023 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519830-koni-street-rebuilt/ with original Koni parts plus one year warranty, always happy with their perofmane.

Yes i do, now only 20W-50 and 0W-20 can be found here https://www.skroutz.gr/c/1228/Ladia-Autokinhtou/m/22964/Millers-Oils.html and in some other stores but for Industrial or Truck-Bus use.

Millers Oils EE Performance 10W50This product is for a performance engine oil featuring NANODRIVE low friction technology for vehicles requiring an A3/B4 or A3/B3 10w50 specification, predominantly for European and Asian extreme high performance vehicles. PERFORMANCE PROFILE: • Manufactured to far exceed the requirements of API SL/CF and ACEA A3/B4 • Suitable for operating at 125oC with peak temperatures up to 150oC DATA SHEET NO: 7955 DT: 04/01/17 • For fast road use or track days in engines where a 10W40 is normally specified Specific Gravity at 15°C 0.869 Kinematic Viscosity at 100°C 20.0 Kinematic Viscosity at 40°C 139.9 Viscosity Index 165 Pour Point °C -42 Flashpoint °C 240 Motul Specific Abarth 0101 10w-50 Fully SyntheticDensity at 20°C 0.854 Viscosity at 40°C 121.3 Viscosity at 100°C 17.8 Viscosity Index 163.0 Flash point 244.0 °C Pour point -45.0 °C / -49.0 °C

No way ! ............. Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 10W-50 Ester Fully Synthetic Engine Oil Kinematic Viscosity at 100ºC 18.17 mm2 Kinematic Viscosity at 40ºC 116.5 mm2 Viscosity Index 174 Specific Gravity at 15ºC 0.869 Pour point -33ºC Flash Point 210ºC ___________________ TotalEnergies QUARTZ RACING 10W-50 Kinematic viscosity at 40°C 127.5 Kinematic viscosity at 100°C 19.8 Density at 15°C 0.8531 Viscosity index 178 Pour point (to be measured) Flash point 224ºC The quest continues...

@nta16 my main concern in cases like this (engine oil in GR climate conditions) are these parametres: Viscosity at 100 °C Viscosity Index

Well done, the grease isn't too much?

It's pdf is huge (13 pages) but crucial information are missing, that's not good for me. https://www.ravenol.de/storage/app/uploads/share/SDB/Sdb_RAVENOL%20HVE%20High%20Viscosity%20Ester%20Oil%20SAE%2010W-50_1115101_en_ALL.pdf Flash point 258 °C Density 854 kg/m³ at 15 °C Kinematic viscosity 129 mm²/s at 40 °C I have to make a comparison with some other 10W-50 engine oils.

From Amsoil site. There is a 10 'C difference between 40 and 50 grade.

Totally i have used 3 times 5W-40 in my Felicia, the 2 times i wasn't happy with the noise of the engine and the 3rd time wasn't happy with the oil pressure light staying on a little longer than normal. So the 5W-40 is ''Finished'' for me.

You didn't had a warning red light in the cluster? Weird. So the mechanic refill the brake fluid reservoir, remove the air bubbles and now the car turns-off when you turn the key (as in a normal car) ?

Unfortunately only VIKA here in GR. In CZ stores? https://www.nd-skoda-volkswagen.cz/cz/autodily-skoda/univerzalni-dily-skoda/37181-modul-zapalovani.html Autodoc? https://www.autodoc.gr/exartimata-aftokiniton/monada_anaflexis_egkefalos-10346/skoda/felicia/felicia-ii-6u1/11193-1-3