D.FYLAKTOS

No matter if the ECU-programmer cutter saved me i wouldn't take the risk to make a modification to the gear lever, the shock for me those times was enough to don't try anything by myself. I haven't see a Felicia even on the internet with a quick shifter, unfortunately there is no guarantee.

No, it's because is very poplular here, we also have USA, Spanish, French, Japanese products etc. In their website have the two versions. https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#8369 300ml removes oil and greasy residue chemical conversion of lime does not contain acids or alkali compatible with antifreeze neutral behavior on rubber and plastics neutralizes acids disperses sludge and in Workshop series the https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/pro-line-radiator-cleaner-p000196.html#5189 1 ltr. removes oil and grease-based contaminants chemical conversion of lime does not contain acids or alkali compatible with antifreeze good material compatibility neutral behavior on rubber and plastics neutralizes acids disperses sludge

Translated: At the end of the red area, however, is the point where the cutter intervenes. How does he do this? By cutting off the fuel supply (some, but fewer, cut off the spark in the spark plugs), even if the gas pedal remains depressed. There are two types of cutter operation though. One is the one that maintains the revs. of the motor at the point where it intervenes and the other which drops the revs quite a bit as it cuts off the fuel supply for a little over a second. In any case, in this way it is impossible for the driver to even accidentally exceed the maximum rpm. of the engine by pressing the accelerator. But be careful... This does not mean that it is impossible for something like this to happen. And this is because the cutter affects the power supply or ignition of the motor and not the transmission. For this, for example, if in a gear change from fifth to fourth, we make a mistake and "click" second, then the damage is rather certain, since the driving force from the wheels (which through the transmission will transfer the movement to the engine crank) will push the motor over its rev limit. And this is because such a wrong gear change can easily increase the revolutions from 5,000 rpm. at 7,000 rpm surpassing the cutter. This results in the valves not being able to keep pace, losing their timing with the pistons and thus causing the damage. It is worth noting that there are cutters that now also work with the car's sub-modules, in order to determine if, for example, the motor is cold and thus reduce even more the point at which they intervene, while in very fast cars there is also a speed cutter (usually in 250 km/h). Benny Hill was extremely popular here, everyone likes him https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvGBj1CFetk because he didn't had any ironic, arrogant style. I have seen an episode which he was dressed with traditional GR uniform.

Liqui Moly says add the product in the existing coolant, i was thinking to flush what i have, add tap sidtilled water with the LM product and then flush it. Weird but i see two of them in the market. https://liquimoly.cloudimg.io/v7/https://www.liqui-moly.com/media/catalog/product/cache/afa4132dc622b3596e7e2b6e4e4bc624/5/1/5189_Pro_Line_K__hlerreiniger_1l_4994.png?w=547.5&h=540&func=bound&sharp=1&org_if_sml=1&force_format=webp%2Coriginal and https://liquimoly.cloudimg.io/v7/https://www.liqui-moly.com/media/catalog/product/cache/afa4132dc622b3596e7e2b6e4e4bc624/3/3/3320_K__hlerreiniger_300ml_4f62.png?w=547.5&h=540&func=bound&sharp=1&org_if_sml=1&force_format=webp%2Coriginal

Normal for GR. You know the "ασε ρε που θα καθομαι εγω να ασχολουμαι" style. I would prefer the "i will do it but i need the •••• amount of money, does this suits you?"

If there was a kit for Felicia in the market i could give a try but now it's a risk to make a modification. As for the humour we always prefered Benny Hill, we don't lough with any other style. By the way in the classic cars in case of Mechanical over-rev there were no safety features to save the engine?

I have "broke" many factory rules so far. The repair shops here grouching if you ask from them such a detailed task, they prefer the ''come to empty the old coolant, add the new, pay and go" procedure.

I wonder it's better to add the Radiator Flush into the existing coolant and rinse (after let it work) or remove it, add tap water with the RF and then (after let it work) rinse?

The radiator in Felicia (VW group) has no pressure cap, it's "closed circuit" as they say it here. Refill of coolant only via the expansion tank.

One mistake in 24 years is acceptable, i did't looked the rpm that time, i was in an overtake and my eyes were in the road ahead. A turn was in front of me and i wanted to catch it. No Felicia quick shift in the market as there are for other models. No video about the installation and no opinions from other Felicia drivers so i can not know about the feeling. I can improvise but the risk is 100% mine, if it does not work i have to pay a lot to install a new gear stick. It's a very difficult decision.

I will do it, i have led cree flash light with about 6100K. I see no muck so far in the mouth-cap even at the bottom as the previous had.

I have 2 thoughts: 1) rinse, add a cleaner and tap water for few Kms, rinse, add distilled water and G12 2) leave it few months more so the whole system will boil for good in summer and do the work in my birthplace where i have space to work and garden hose.

It's very difficult with a smarthpone to take clear pictures of the content but i have tried with a fladh light on the side to shed some light inside. The ''mouth" isn't dirty, the cap was very clear. For sure there was no ''mess'' like the previous expansion tank but it's not 100% clear. There are some glitetrs inside but not significant, only on the right side (not visible) there is tiny muck on the walls but not thick. The bottom of the plastic tank looks clear and i have not overheating problems, the whole system works fine.

For Quick Shifter except the possible stiffness my main concern is the possible accidentally Mechanical over-rev. In the past i have done some mistakes: first case, with 2th gear in Mountain Roads while chasing another car i pushed things too far, the rpm went far above the 5500 red line limit and must reached about 6200 rpm. In another 2 cases in Highway from 4th to 5th (no chasing this time) i went accidentally to 3rd, in all of the 3 cases the engine rev-up to the limit and turned-off itself. The ECU programmer's cutter saved my engine, we say it Cutter here because "it cuts the engine" and saves the motor.

Unfortunately the 3.40' is a ''rule'' for VW no matter the season but if there is one positive thing is that now with the modified air box filter in the first few hundered meters the car is one click smoother. Does not wan't to go forward as use to, it's not abrupt as before, i can't describe exactly that but for sure you have felt it in the carburettor days when the chock was pulled out and the engine was in a ''hurry'' mode. Fuel Consumption now is one click lower even in City traffic, i have photos to post and the TC-6 proves it.

I have done a 108 km distance test for this modified air filter box, results and photos (proof) soon. I removed that part to have space to work better and let some hot air from the manifold to go upward to "escape" easily. If i could i would remove the rest but i can not duplicate that Γ shape, i can not calculate the capacity of that plastic "tube" and i have not so much time for experiments with different size tubes etc to find "the best" for my driving style.

I like to search things and make modifications when i feel that would help me. I have looked in the past some times for quick shifter but the negative comments from drivers which installed aftermarket were more than the positive (except factory parts as in the video). The quest continues...

I have to agree of what he says in 2:17

Not often but can happen from wrong cable position (negative-positive) when you are out of battery and someone volunteered to give you power, moisture (wrong engine washing), corrosion in pins.

I have made 2 coolant changes, in purpose to remove the old ''contaminated'' fluid. Plus i have to find time to take photo from the expansion tank although looks clear at 90% at least.

It is not surprising that the: thermostat sensor, the thermostat itself and the main hose right after it are clean with no sludge or something sticky? I was worrying for the water pump too.

No, i have not. Separate the engine block? Where in the side of the road that i am working?

I have done from 2006 some experiments with additives in gasoline, you can still find them by Google search my nick name. You are referring to original Xylene, as with alcohol there is the original (expensive) and the fake (very cheap). One example are the "bomb drinks" that they serve in night-clubs.

What i have noticed in the Winder and only with the ENEOS 10W-40 was that even when the car was hot (the thermostat was opened at 1st scale, the radiator fan had already began spinning or was ready to) and as i was in the traffic light (same route, same hour every day) i noticed from the mirror smoke coming from the exhaust. Here is an example from other car, not too thick smoke but was present. Yes that's normal in Cold Starts in Winter and disappears after a while but in that case stayed more time than usual. I have the suspicion that maybe was gasoline's fault, i was using from a specific gas station but due to a scandal here in GR with Xylene i stopped visit it. No sign of that smoke in Spring so mustn't be the engine oil.

Already fixed years ago, whole kit installed. I alwayd loved the "click-click" gear changes of the ferrari Dino, take a look at this guy (with sandals) what does with his so expensive classic car.