D.FYLAKTOS

I don't want me or other driver in my car to ''reach the limits" in a public road. It would be good to have someone to give me some advises or make a correction to my mistake while i am driving in Mountain Roads. My gear stick was ''sloppy'' and few years back i bought and installed a factory specifications kit, things are far better now but i thought that there was a room for improvement (quick shift) but since there is no kit in the market and no time plus money for experiments i have to abandon the idea. I can't do anything then. 🙁

The ''moment of truth" came, it's time for a road test to see the behaviour of the car and the Fuel Consumption with that slightly modified air filter box. I choose to fill the tank with 98 octane gasoline from a specific gas station (more for this in a future topic), i have done about 45Km distance in hard City Traffic, about 50 Km in the Highway where i pushed at least two times the car to the red zone (5500 rpm and 140Km top speed) in purpose and return home in City Traffic. The whole test distance was 108.8 Km , the receipt in the gas pump station shown 9.020 ltr so the FC was 8,29 ltr/100Km or 34.075 UK mpg. 😍 The TC-6 shown 8,4% Average and 9ltr Total which is almost identical to the 9.020 of the pump which means the specific gas station does not steal from the pump. I could get lower MPG in Highway but that was not my purpose, i wanted to push the car to see the behaviour in high rpm, the torque, the behaviour in middle rpm later in an uphill etc with the modification. At 13:00 i am already in City, the distance is 102.7 Km The distance is 103.2 Km, normally the FC start rising due to traffic. and arrived in gas station at 13:28 so i did 6.1 Km distance in about 28 minutes (actually is 2 minutes less, it's the time to stop in the station and the time for the pump to do it's job) but you get the idea. So in the FC sector the modified air box filter worked very good, no problem with 4th gear and 100Km speed to reach the 140 Km, no hesitation to touch the 5500 rpm limit (with the previous damned-useless-crappy 15W-50 i couldn't even reach the 5000 rpm). No problem with the 10W-40 Synthetic oil, take a look the needle in the temperature gauge.

This is in Felicia, the A goes to the engine block and the B goes to the thermostat. it's absolutely impossible for my working in the side of the road to reach the end of the A, even @Thefeliciahacker didn't do it which works in his backyard. Except if a loose the upper end of the hose and spill coolant in the whole area beside the battery. I have found another photo from that messy previous expansion tank. Today i have taken some other photos plus a City Traffic test to check the Fuel Consumption with the new modified air filter box. The new isn't 100% clean, still has some residues inside, not something significant compared with the previous but still has.

This is not UK or USA, there are 2 tracks here in GR and the closest is 225 Κm from me so i need a whole day to go-return plus the enormous cost of gasoline-track ticket-instructor cost per hour-tolls etc so forget it !

As ''recommended" ? @Thefeliciahacker shows how much time a driver needs only for the Heater Core to pull out. He Is speechless till few minutes of the end of the video. Add the time to install it back plus time to add coolant, bleed air out etc.

IF i had a spare (used) mechanism and IF i could find a mechanic to take the responsibility for ''install-test-uninstall-back to the original" i would give a try. By the way i use the Double Clutching method the latest years.

So i am buying the non Pro?

Still hurts me. I had to stop watching video like this. 😢

Ok, so we lost again (as in the OBD port-Torque application). 🙁 The tower is huge (in the previous Cz links so i doubt if this could fit in our console. By the way did you notice the ''sandal" old man with his $300000 ferrari Dino above? Take a look at 6:39 at 8:38 at 9:00, no car chasing, imagine him in fast driving in Mountain Roads.

Maybe the Pro-line is for repair shops, one can car do the job for many cars so with one can can charge many customers. The other if for 1 maybe 2 vehicles at most.

No matter if the ECU-programmer cutter saved me i wouldn't take the risk to make a modification to the gear lever, the shock for me those times was enough to don't try anything by myself. I haven't see a Felicia even on the internet with a quick shifter, unfortunately there is no guarantee.

No, it's because is very poplular here, we also have USA, Spanish, French, Japanese products etc. In their website have the two versions. https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#8369 300ml removes oil and greasy residue chemical conversion of lime does not contain acids or alkali compatible with antifreeze neutral behavior on rubber and plastics neutralizes acids disperses sludge and in Workshop series the https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/pro-line-radiator-cleaner-p000196.html#5189 1 ltr. removes oil and grease-based contaminants chemical conversion of lime does not contain acids or alkali compatible with antifreeze good material compatibility neutral behavior on rubber and plastics neutralizes acids disperses sludge

Translated: At the end of the red area, however, is the point where the cutter intervenes. How does he do this? By cutting off the fuel supply (some, but fewer, cut off the spark in the spark plugs), even if the gas pedal remains depressed. There are two types of cutter operation though. One is the one that maintains the revs. of the motor at the point where it intervenes and the other which drops the revs quite a bit as it cuts off the fuel supply for a little over a second. In any case, in this way it is impossible for the driver to even accidentally exceed the maximum rpm. of the engine by pressing the accelerator. But be careful... This does not mean that it is impossible for something like this to happen. And this is because the cutter affects the power supply or ignition of the motor and not the transmission. For this, for example, if in a gear change from fifth to fourth, we make a mistake and "click" second, then the damage is rather certain, since the driving force from the wheels (which through the transmission will transfer the movement to the engine crank) will push the motor over its rev limit. And this is because such a wrong gear change can easily increase the revolutions from 5,000 rpm. at 7,000 rpm surpassing the cutter. This results in the valves not being able to keep pace, losing their timing with the pistons and thus causing the damage. It is worth noting that there are cutters that now also work with the car's sub-modules, in order to determine if, for example, the motor is cold and thus reduce even more the point at which they intervene, while in very fast cars there is also a speed cutter (usually in 250 km/h). Benny Hill was extremely popular here, everyone likes him https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvGBj1CFetk because he didn't had any ironic, arrogant style. I have seen an episode which he was dressed with traditional GR uniform.

Liqui Moly says add the product in the existing coolant, i was thinking to flush what i have, add tap sidtilled water with the LM product and then flush it. Weird but i see two of them in the market. https://liquimoly.cloudimg.io/v7/https://www.liqui-moly.com/media/catalog/product/cache/afa4132dc622b3596e7e2b6e4e4bc624/5/1/5189_Pro_Line_K__hlerreiniger_1l_4994.png?w=547.5&h=540&func=bound&sharp=1&org_if_sml=1&force_format=webp%2Coriginal and https://liquimoly.cloudimg.io/v7/https://www.liqui-moly.com/media/catalog/product/cache/afa4132dc622b3596e7e2b6e4e4bc624/3/3/3320_K__hlerreiniger_300ml_4f62.png?w=547.5&h=540&func=bound&sharp=1&org_if_sml=1&force_format=webp%2Coriginal

Normal for GR. You know the "ασε ρε που θα καθομαι εγω να ασχολουμαι" style. I would prefer the "i will do it but i need the •••• amount of money, does this suits you?"

If there was a kit for Felicia in the market i could give a try but now it's a risk to make a modification. As for the humour we always prefered Benny Hill, we don't lough with any other style. By the way in the classic cars in case of Mechanical over-rev there were no safety features to save the engine?

I have "broke" many factory rules so far. The repair shops here grouching if you ask from them such a detailed task, they prefer the ''come to empty the old coolant, add the new, pay and go" procedure.

I wonder it's better to add the Radiator Flush into the existing coolant and rinse (after let it work) or remove it, add tap water with the RF and then (after let it work) rinse?

The radiator in Felicia (VW group) has no pressure cap, it's "closed circuit" as they say it here. Refill of coolant only via the expansion tank.

One mistake in 24 years is acceptable, i did't looked the rpm that time, i was in an overtake and my eyes were in the road ahead. A turn was in front of me and i wanted to catch it. No Felicia quick shift in the market as there are for other models. No video about the installation and no opinions from other Felicia drivers so i can not know about the feeling. I can improvise but the risk is 100% mine, if it does not work i have to pay a lot to install a new gear stick. It's a very difficult decision.

I will do it, i have led cree flash light with about 6100K. I see no muck so far in the mouth-cap even at the bottom as the previous had.

I have 2 thoughts: 1) rinse, add a cleaner and tap water for few Kms, rinse, add distilled water and G12 2) leave it few months more so the whole system will boil for good in summer and do the work in my birthplace where i have space to work and garden hose.

It's very difficult with a smarthpone to take clear pictures of the content but i have tried with a fladh light on the side to shed some light inside. The ''mouth" isn't dirty, the cap was very clear. For sure there was no ''mess'' like the previous expansion tank but it's not 100% clear. There are some glitetrs inside but not significant, only on the right side (not visible) there is tiny muck on the walls but not thick. The bottom of the plastic tank looks clear and i have not overheating problems, the whole system works fine.

For Quick Shifter except the possible stiffness my main concern is the possible accidentally Mechanical over-rev. In the past i have done some mistakes: first case, with 2th gear in Mountain Roads while chasing another car i pushed things too far, the rpm went far above the 5500 red line limit and must reached about 6200 rpm. In another 2 cases in Highway from 4th to 5th (no chasing this time) i went accidentally to 3rd, in all of the 3 cases the engine rev-up to the limit and turned-off itself. The ECU programmer's cutter saved my engine, we say it Cutter here because "it cuts the engine" and saves the motor.

Unfortunately the 3.40' is a ''rule'' for VW no matter the season but if there is one positive thing is that now with the modified air box filter in the first few hundered meters the car is one click smoother. Does not wan't to go forward as use to, it's not abrupt as before, i can't describe exactly that but for sure you have felt it in the carburettor days when the chock was pulled out and the engine was in a ''hurry'' mode. Fuel Consumption now is one click lower even in City traffic, i have photos to post and the TC-6 proves it.