RicardoM

Describe in more detail the problem.

"A little more life" with unpredictable reliability is what I said myself too. Yet there is more to it. A scratched resistive material means there will be no more linear variation of resistance. No matter how good the contact between the wiper and resistive material will be, the thickness of the resistive material is affected by the gauges in it. Not to mention the wiper will continue to dig further into the grooves.

The carbon material was removed. The surface is not smooth anymore. As I said, cleaning will not put back the scratched carbon. The wiper will still run on grooves. Clean ones but still grooves. Cleaning will have marginal, temporary effects.

No. Different number of turns, different resistance of coils.

The ignition coil for Felicia 135 (carburetor) is cylindrical. Different connectors, different specifications. For example https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/004028149-ignition-coil-1-3-tesla-27543.html The distributor is like this: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/004026252-distributor-1-3-cn-3313.html

A few observations:

Hi What country are you from? The translation is impossible to understand. Write in your language as clear as possible and maybe we will understand what you want.

There is nothing written in stone for engine oils. There are many variables involved. Remember that oil is the blood of the engine.

So often as your budget allows it but no more than 10,000 km or 2 years.

This link should give you an idea.

I'd say Covid crisis + Brexit have a role in those discounts. Finally the retailers feel the icy breeze of bankruptcy on their neck...

Actually it won't. The fuel quantity sender is not connected directly to the fuel gauge like on 1970's cars.

Knowing how to diagnose an engine involves a lot of knowledge, both about engine specifics and about diagnosis strategies. Swapping parts based only on errors stored in the engine computer is (sadly) a bad habit of many garages. I suggest letting a professional car technician diagnose the engine. He will look first at several basic variables, like short trim fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT). Then he will adjust the testing strategy accordingly.

I find difficult to understand this phrase. Try reformulating with correct grammar and spelling. English is not my 1st language. EDIT I think you wanted to say "As for the fault finding steps: reading page 1 made me wondering: if carbon brushes are not OK should I replace the voltage regulator?" If that is the case, the answer is yes. As Wino mentioned the carbon brushes are part of the voltage regulator.

@Thefeliciahacker It is not good practice to suggest faults without any evidence. Those that are asking for help need to learn FIRST from us how to diagnose their car. Remember that their expectations from us are usually wrong. They want us to guess what's wrong WITHOUT ANY TEST and without us having direct access to their car. A professional doesn't read in a crystal globe.

No. It's one of those channels that I follow because it shows stuff about Felicia from time to time. The girlfriend of the owner has a Felicia Fun.

You know there's a stalk on the left side of the steering wheel you can use specifically for flashing, right? People use it to flash incoming traffic. The fog lights are, as the name implies, for fog situations. It is awkward to flash using an on/off latching switch. Probably it is a local custom... Actually no. As a prerequisite you need the battery fully charged. See below.

There are experts in here but that doesn't mean you'll get answers to just about anything for obvious reasons.

Jesus... you should call the Guinness Book of Records because it is a miracle. You can't flash the foglights. I think you mean you flashed the high beam lights. Sure, why not? It's just a red bright light. The car didn't catch fire so all is well. They are connected. Do you own a multimeter that you know how to use?

Based on what from his message? Because I could also list over 10 other possible reasons out of thin air.

The best shock absorbers are the ones you can afford.

Fuel consumption depends on SO MANY variables that you didn't cover in your reply. Changing parts blindly doesn't achieve the desired result.

Bigger price higher quality.

GL4+ doesn't exist as a gearbox oil standard. It is just a glorified GL4 oil using the marketing techniques.