RicardoM

You need torque to get power. Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488. So, to make more power an engine needs to generate more torque, operate at higher rpm, or both.

Acceleration and maximum speed are two different things. For acceleration you need torque. Felicia has not great torque at high rpm. Moreover, air friction at high speed is very significant. A higher gear doesn't add much speed, especially since the power curve goes down over 5500 rpm which for a family car is torture.

I don't think there is any way to find out the year of car manufacture by the parts without having access to original registration documents of the car as a whole. Separate parts don't pinpoint the year. Sure, they might show the year of manufacture of that specific part but they had been mounted at various periods. What is that you want to do if you know the year?

Sure, a free 4 weeks holiday to Bali. All included.

The forum has a facility similar to a "virtual reputation" mechanism. Instead of saying thank you, useful members get a reputation count each time the LIKE button is pressed. The button lies to the bottom right in every post we make. Since the button is very easy to miss, I added a message to my signature like so: Click the gray/blue heart (Like) or the magenta cup (Thanks) if you like my post. I think it is the minimum recognition for the time and passion we put in helping other members.

Go to your Account Settings, click on Signature, then set to on "View Signature".

An original new exhaust pipe and a new original CV boot will solve the issue.

Everything works as it should according to your description, except the lack of ignition pulses. Yet I would be careful with the method of testing for pulses. I would not use a test lamp but an oscilloscope. Then I would disconnect the ignition transformer and test again on the connector (in case the ignition transformer is shorted). Read my signature.

There is no mess at all in anything about Skoda Felicia if you read Skoda Felicia factory repair/maintenance manuals. Everything is clearly stated and explained. No room for errors, no if's and but's. As for 'famous' garages, I prefer less known but competent ones.

My car has a Jikov mechanical pump. VIKA pumps use the same design but as usual the quality of the materials is lower. Chinese stuff motto is "make it look great using $hitty materials". As for the engine oil, if all engine gaskets are good quality, not old and they are correctly torqued, then no oil should leak. One other thing. Favorit engine was designed for non-synthetic oils.

Start by checking all grounds (should be all connected if there is no chassis) then all +12V to ECU and sensors. In order to get spark you need the following: correct flywheel for 136M engine good crankshaft position sensor good power and ground to ECU and associated sensors good ignition transformer correct wiring See schematic diagram below.

What is the general setup? Still on the S100 chassis? Or just laying around in a garage? Let's start with photos/video of the engine from all angles, wiring loom, ecu, immo, ignition transformer, relay box, That is the scary part which may render (y)our life difficult. Why "appears to be" instead of "it is" or "it isn't" ? You need to tell us how you have checked and what tools/instruments you have used at every step. Remember you have full access to the engine. We don't.

The original fuel pump for Favorit looks like this. Or buy an original JIKOV pump.

You need to give us more information on the history of the engine and the car. Remember you know more than us and we are not wizards.

Hey Mike Still going strong? You and the car The timing chain should last more than yours. If the brand was OK, there is the possibility the oil channel that sprays the chain was partially clogged or the chain was not aligned properly on the sprockets.

Remember that you will replace the brake cylinder. In other words, you can butcher it any way you want to free it. The only stress in the process is to not allow the brake fluid level drop below reservoir bottom.

Between brakes job and vaccination, I would choose the brakes. You will get a true improvement and life safety, not a gamble.

That can happen if the system is not tight. Although the bleeding might be/look perfect, after the bleeding tools are removed the air seeps in.

Either way, heat is the last solution.

Mine too as FIRST option. On BOTH wheels. Replace the brake fluid too if it is older than 2 years. PS Easter is in a month.

I don't see anything wrong with the spark plugs while driving only in a city traffic. It is the worst life for a car. Only if the spark plugs look the same after a long highway drive, I would be worried.

So that is why I didn't know about them... Nobody in here clarified they are NOT factory A/C systems.