RicardoM

Heat is the factor. But let's see what happens if you take the car alarm out of the equation.

If I remember correctly, the car alarm (Laserline 989) sends lock/unlock commands to the central locking unit of the car when the remote buttons are pressed. Let's try to isolate the car alarm by switching it off. I am thinking of these scenarios: the car alarm started to fail and sends parasitic lock commands by itself (we all know those cars that start to blare out of nowhere in parking lots) the remote lock button makes contact "by itself" from wear, weak spring, whatever If the issue persists after the car alarm is disconnected, the central locking unit and actuators need a service. Usually fail the objects that have moving parts. If the issue is gone, you need to service the buttons of the remote or the alarm unit itself (can help with that)

Those things happen usually when excessive humidity is involved. By that I mean water in door actuators, or water in alarm/central locking unit. Any heavy rain or pressure hose wash lately? Other than that it may be the alarm/central locking unit itself. Too sensitive or on its way out.

The chassis and the engine are from VW Caddy generation 2 (1995) which was the inspiration for Pickup and VanPlus. The Czechs added new styling to Pickup resulting the Fun (1997).

Felicia Fun was indeed a great car that sparked the passion of many drivers. Partly based on VW Caddy, the car had a strong Czech heritage that resulted in a unique piece of art. All died when VW trampled over Skoda with its new production strategy.

There is no Felicia having 48kW. Only 40, 42, 43, and 50 kW versions.

Although your photo is showing a clone made in China cable with a pirate accompanying software, it should do the job.

Nothing new there. VAG1552 is the original VAG scanner while Ross-Tech makes an equivalent (quite better) scanner.

You will not find just the pinion to buy. You have to buy the entire speedometer drive. How proficient are you in electronics?

@DamTam You need to tell us more in detail what happened in chronological order and what you did to your car at each step. I say it often to those members looking for help: remember that we don't have full access to your car, we can't read thoughts, we are not wizards to know the solution. We can only help you if you share with us so much information as possible.

Have you removed the instrument cluster?

You need to tell us more about the reason you felt the need to change the distributor and also what other related parts you removed or checked in the process. For now all I can say is that the only thing (partly) related to your issue is that the RPM input signal is coming from a wire on one terminal of the ignition coil. One other thing. The title of your topic is misleading. It is not the RPM of the engine that fluctuates but only the indication of RPM on the tachometer.

I thought you understood something from this event. The battery was the culprit for everything. Killing the voltage regulator, the alternator, and for engine stalling. It was not a case of "it couldn't hurt to replace it" but a mandatory job.

Have a look at this section first.

If you are 100% sure the brake caliper is not seized, then it's the brake hose.

No reason in particular. There are many other brands with similar price.

I didn't use Valeo clutch cables. I will give it a go. Thanks.

What manufacturer of clutch cable did you find satisfactory? Because, brother, they are all a mess. Poor quality materials, mainly the plastic and 'rubber' components. They lead to increased friction (thus hard operation) very fast. Some cables got elongated other snapped.

You mean the charging alert indicator is still lit? The old, faulty battery acted more or less like a short for the charging system. Unless the alternator got damaged too in the process, the problem with the VR is solved.

Well... well... well... So let's recap. 1) It was not the cable between battery and alternator (??!) the culprit for voltage regulator's frequent failure. The battery was shot. 2) The ECU was not faulty. The battery was shot. 3) You didn't need an "immobilizer emulator" from eBay. The battery was shot. 4) You didn't need an extra earth cable. The battery was shot. The moral: NEVER assume something without a proper diagnose. In our case, a battery doesn't last forever. Moreover, measuring 12.6V on the battery poles without any load means nothing. The health of the battery is measured under load.

That is a very strange advice. Yes, it is. A thick wire goes from the battery to alternator. That is why I asked about evidence for a faulty ECU. The ECU gets shot usually if you supply external voltage on some pins of its connectors. What you are describing are not symptoms of a bad ECU but of a bad wiring. You messed up the wiring somehow. Show us photos of what you did.

In order to fit the 1.3 MPI, any clutch set should have the same dimensions. I wonder where the "higher clamping force" comes from. As for the longevity of an aftermarket clutch set, you can barely reach 100,000 km if you drive the car properly. Of course, with good brand clutches.

Any evidence for that? Cause?

I would have a second look here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/felicia/spare-parts/clutch-4.html

Possible reasons are, in this order: sloppy or bent gear shifter linkage faulty clutch bad gearbox