dreema

Yeah, this is normal, quite a few of the EVs i've driven recently have it, i think on an EV it bypasses the Eco mode and gives you full juice. My DSG equipped Superb has it as well, it's a lot of fun :D

Going to add for a dealer that's not a bad price, my local indie was £205 for the oil and filter.

Also check your local friendly hardware store - Halfords want £7 for a CR1616 for my honda key, local hardware store charged a whopping £1.50

There's a bunch of little white rockers that sit under the buttons and push down on a rubber pad that contacts the circuit board to tell your window up/down etc. They break easily. Mine were doing the same thing with front windows (you'll probably find passenger one works fine from the passenger side, etc) I replaced mine, part number 5G0 959 857 D - there are variations depending on whether you have the childlock button or the disable windows button below the window switches. IIRC it was about £65 for a genuine part. Edit: forgot to add if you're stuck with the window down and need to close it, using the comfort closing on the key should work.

I got stuck behind tourists...

Green & White 2CV Dolly

Mine has a 125 - 70 - R18 in it.

Yeah, i think it's the ( A ) button that is next to the handbrake button between the gear lever and cup holder. I prefer having it on, i had a bit of a wtf moment driving my sister's Kodiaq when it didn't behave as i thought it should.

Absolutely no help at all i know but ... mine does the same, lol.

ive used o2's preloaded sims before now, was kinda expensive for what it was (40gbp for 12Gb) but the main plus was no contract and it was valid for a year (mind you this was for a mifi, rather than the car)

I've lost track of the amount of old kit i've sent for 'recycling' over the years. Stuff that's still working, but too slow/outdated/unsupported for modern use.

Amusingly my Skoda ownership has also been Mk1 Octavia estate (non VRs 1.8t 4x4) and then a Mk3 Superb 280 And i still miss that Octavia!

Maybe an audi a3wheel from 2011? Wheel part # 8p0 601 025 bh 1h7 Center cap part # 4b0 601 170 a 7zj from https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/wheels/18-oem-audi-wheels-5x112.htm

Check that the mirror selector switch on the driver's door is set to L mirror. If it's not, the mirror stays in position.

there's the thinkbroadband speed test, also speedof.me if you're after checking signal strengths i can recommend wifi analyser by farproc on the playstore, it'll do both 2.4 and 5g connections

Had this on mine recently, the white plastic toggles between the switch and circuit board disintegrated. When ordering make sure you get the right switch panel, mine was 5G0 959 857 D WHS. This is the one with the large 'disable the windows' button. The other one has the child lock enable/disable buttons on it.

If they're like any of the others i've done (passat/exeo/etc) take the wheel off and tap gently on the centre cap from behind till it pops out (if you care about keeping them) or just whack it sharply (if you don't) They're made of plastic and have clips held in place on the wheel by a metal ring if the design is similar.

Make sure windows firewall has the options ticked for filesharing on the host, also make sure the network type is set to private, if it's public it'll not let sharing happen. If you've shared the folder on the win10 pc then you'll need to point the win7pc to that (so \\<win10pc>\sharedfolder on the win7 pc) Might also be worth checking that the username and password on both pcs is the same, or if they're different then make an account on the win10 pc that's the same as the account on the win7 pc. You don't need to use it, you just need it to be on there and have access to the shared folder.

This should give you some real world data. Figures are in l/100kms until you log in and change the units (german site) https://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/45-Skoda/400-Superb.html?fueltype=2&power_s=200&power_e=220&powerunit=3

That one scared the crap out of me the first time i saw it.

I had similar on my exeo when swapping out the side lights (all 4 of them) ended up getting some aglint canbus compatible ones which worked fine. The other option would be to solder on a resistor to the led to increase the load on the system to match a standard halogen bulb.

I think, open the front door, lift the rubber seal on the front edge and there are three screws to remove. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264569695629 that shows the screw locations.

Thanks for the heads up, mine has done 24k and is 4 years old, couldn't find any reference of the work being done so I asked my indie if he'd do it during the service/mot yesterday. He showed me pics of it as it came out, wasn't quite as bad as some of the pics above but it was covered in gunk.

Wow, blast from the past there. Used to use those when i worked for ICL, back in the mid 90's. Just around the time they started rolling in the FujitsuICL Pentiums.

If you really want to crunch numbers on the relative economies of each, have a look at spritmonitor dot de. You'll be able to search by model type and engine size and see what people are getting over distances.