langers2k

Try changing these: Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion B 16 --> Abbiegelicht links Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion B 17 --> Abbiegelicht rechts Keep the existing changes you've already made. I'm pretty new to the MQB platform but I'm pretty sure that'll do what you want. I assume you have LED front fog lights?

At a guess, the fog light channels have changed so the below aren't actually the fog lights: Post an adaption map from 09 and I'll see if I see anything obvious

Large KPH is possibly but you'll need to edit the EEPROM rather than just tweak the coding with VCDS

Well they should work but obviously they won't integrate with the rest of the car. Just make sure they are on a switched live so they can't flatten the car battery if you leave them turned on.

MIB2 is from around 2015 if I remember correctly. 2018 should definitely be MIB2. You can format the card and it'll be fine.

Yes - if it's a genuine Skoda card for an MIB2, it should work regardless of size.

With the Amundsen you must use an original Skoda/VW SD card... Other SD cards will not work.

Looks like it pulls out after the two side panels are removed. There is a video in this post:

Yup, that's an premium/rSAP only module which explains the missing menu Just don't buy an iphone as they have no rSAP support so you'd need a new BT module to use it...

If you can, check the part number of the Bluetooth module. That'll confirm if it supports hfp or not. At a guess, it'll be under one of the front seats.

A dealer should be able to activate smartlink... I believe the part number they need is 000054830A which is an activation kit and is normally around £130-150. Unfortunately, it does need a dealer to do the update for you, just as an example for the kit: https://shop.skoda.nl/auto-accessoires/car-electronics/connectivity/000054830A-smartlink?cid=13

To meet the ECE regulations and be deemed road legal, there is a maximum light output for each bulb type. This means that all up to x% brighter will have the same total amount of light output as a 'normal' bulb. Taking a H7 for an example, it's 1500lm ±10%. The reason they can make x% brighter claims is when the bulb was tested in a specific headlight (of their choice), one section of the beam was x% brighter, even if other sections were dimmer. They can achieve this by tweaking the wire and coil size used to make the filament which is why 'performance' bulbs quite often have lower life spans. Most 'whiter' headlight bulbs tend to have a filter to remove the red/yellow light but this will also reduce the useful light output. For example, take a look at Osrams range below, the 'whiter' versions just have more coating on the bulbs... The cool blue boost on the very right is not suitable for road use, mostly as they only produce 900lm ±15% despite being rated at 80W rather than 55W!

I would suggest you check with whoever removed component protection to save an expensive mistake...

The H15 is a dual filament bulb that's used for both the DRL and main beams

Possibly ABT? https://www.abt-sportsline.com

Some bluetooth modules only support rSAP (premium mode) so will always 'steal' the sim. If it's possible to switch modes, it'll be via the maxidot (cluster). Snippet of the 2012 Octavia manual but the menu layout would be the same:

From Bridgestone: I believe the advertised top speed of a170ps TDi vRS is around 139 mph? Therefore Skoda must have decided their wasn't enough safety margin left with a V rated tyre in real world conditions and decided on Y. Whilst I fully agree a lower speed rating is probably fine for most UK usage, it's not me that you need to convince, it's the insurance company

Pretty sure your car uses: - H7 bulb for low beam - H15 bulb for the DRL/main beam Annoyingly, the H15 will limit the road legal options assuming you'd like them to match. I'd suggest you take a look at the OSRAM Cool Blue Intense range as they are probably the 'whitest' road legal bulb you can fit: - https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/cool-blue-intense-h7-two-bulbs - https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-cool-blue-intense-h15-single Just remember that the blue tint on the bulb will be absorbing light so although it's 'whiter' than a standard bulb, you may find the lighting performance drops slightly.

Not sure if Skoda/VW do a shark fin without a bee sting for DAB, GPS and GSM. I can see variants for: - 3C0035507N - GPS, GSM - 3C0035507AA - GPS - 1K0035507L - dummy with no connections!

Holding parking tickets and alike. To remove it, you need to remove the A-pillar and then I believe there is a single bolt holding it in place

There doesn't seem to be much price difference on black circles for W or Y rated tyres. You should check with your insurance company that they are happy for you to use the lower speed rating. Given winter is pretty much here, I'd suggest getting something at least half decent as it's going to be cold and damp for a next few months...

Don't fit one then...? If you're happy with the RCD330, then good for you. I tried one and I wasn't happy so I changed it for something better, namely the MIB Amundsen. Pointing out the flaws of each helps people make an informed decision to avoid disappointment when something doesn't work as they'd expect. As for cost, when I sold my Octavia, I took the MIB Amundsen out and made back the money I'd spent on it... Simples

6R0035501D has AM/FM, DAB, GPS and GSM. Not sure where the TV receiver is but I don't think it's via the shark fin :/

I tried the RCD330 and it's 'OK' but certainly not 'great'. Looking at an old post of mine, the most obvious issues/bugs I'd noticed were: - No RDS info for FM - No alternative frequency (AF) switching for FM - No maxidot support apart from incoming call notifications - No climate information displayed - Occasional volume issues - Gets stuck in the 'voice' EQ losing most the bass I had zero issues with the MIB PQ STD2 headunit but obviously the lack of climate info support was the same

Starting point would just be to compare the wire colours at the level sensor connector to the AFS master. If those pins match for colour, there is a good chance I'm right I'm pretty sure that the original wiring would have both the ABS sensor and AFS level sensor join to a single loom so replacing one, may have caused issues with the other. So given your ABS wiring issue on that corner, depending how they fixed it, any connections they made could be causing this too.