langers2k

Pretty sure that's normal. There are a few varients depending if it's pre-fl or fl and if you have low or high functionally versions fitted 👍

That style of hba controller had been known to fail due to a 0 ohm resistor overheating and failing. Take a look at

Installation list is normally pretty easy to figure out on that generation of car. Add things that aren't registered and remove things that are missing will get you pretty close. Can you add an autoscan from VCDS 👍

Pretty sure the ECU provides the max power figure... I think you need to go back to your tuner and see if they can sort it. At least when I retrofitted a VC it was correct immediately.

No - I wouldn't expect parts to work between generations. The cars are based on completely different platforms, the MK2 Octavia is PQ35 and a MK3 is MQB... You might find parts from other MQB cars work, such as a MK7 Golf or MK3 Leon This doesn't seem too bad a price for a TDi vRS radiator pack assuming it has everything you need: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144821766382

A quick google suggests that 91° C is a perfectly plausible temperature between the turbo and intercooler. For example, Valeo state: "The intercooler lowers the temperature of the inlet gas from 130° C to 60° C, removes the negative effects of the turbo and increases the power by around 20%." Given there are no fault codes, I would have no concerns about it 👍 Might be worth looking at some more measuring blocks to see if there are a few more temps from other parts of the intake system?

Have you changed anything recently or updated the maps?

My worry would be the droplets will cause corrosion and damage the LED module or other internal electronics. It's hard to tell from your images but it looks pretty excessive and causing droplets inside. Compare it to these images I posted from a Skoda TPI: I'd use a hairdryer to get the worst out. Then inspect the headlights to make sure all the caps are in place and there are no obvious cracks etc.

There are loads on eBay in various styles and price points. If you want genuine versions, I think the RHD choices are: - All-weather interior foot mats (4-piece set) (5E2 061 550) - Textile foot mats Standard (4-piece set) (5E2 061 404C) - Textile foot mats Prestige (4-piece set) (5E2 061 404B) I can't remember if there is a vRS specific version 😕

It's impossible to know. All the Euro6 standard revisions have the same limits by fuel type, it's the testing that changed. I would hope that Euro6 will be enough for most emission zones for a while. Euro7 is due to be introduced in 2025 I think...

Grabbing a list of PR codes for the VIN would be the easiest way to check, if you have PR-7CS listed, then it'll have a GPF. Timeline for the reg changes from VW: As the vRS was an existing model, the changes would have applied to cars built after the 1st September 2018. That means it'll be MY19 (Model Year 19) or '68 plate onwards. Some very early '68 plates built before September probably avoided the GPF Had a quick look on eBay at downpipes, Both shown below were listed as Golf MK7 GTI's which has the same (or very similar) 245ps engine as the vRS. I believe the left is a pre-GPF and the right is with a GPF, it's probably that massive cylinder at the bottom

You might want to add a little more information... What diagnostic tool are you using and maybe share some screenshots to show what you've tried

That's completely normal after a firmware update and is trivial to fix. You need to grab a value from the "Confirmation of installation change" channel, XOR it with C9D2 then enter the new value OBDeleven example below and you can use http://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/ for the XOR calculation...

It's certainly been done, just for example: - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/30114/ - https://www.drive2.ru/l/630579815207933947/ - https://www.drive2.ru/l/594185980328569269/ The biggest issue is the frame. There is no OEM part so instead you'll need to modify one or have one 3D printed then painted to match your interior. Pretty sure there was someone on drive2 making them but I can't remember who.

From the workshop manual: Please note the 'remove the headlight' step so you'll need to remove the front bumper... No idea if it's possible without removing the headlight

I would suggest address 09, adaptions and CSV, it should end up in the logs folder

Maybe check the VCDS owners list and map to see who is close

You probably need to buy a 'Pro plan' at a guess: https://obdeleven.com/en/products-page I have zero experience with OBDeleven but you could always ask in their forums: https://forum.obdeleven.com/

Take a look at this:

My '18 plate 245 'edition' doesn't have a GPF

That's certainly not been the case for me... I've had sufficient build up of fluff in the USB-c port of my Pixel 5 that AA became unreliable. It once got so bad it wouldn't charge... I had to get a plastic ziptie, trim it to a point and tease the compressed fluff out of the USB-c port 😆 No need for a Samsung branded cable, any decent quality cable should be fine. Personally, I'm a fan of Anker cables as they seem to work well for me.

Pretty sure that folder should be called 'maps' rather than 'maps 2'? At least based on DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2010_V17.7z which I just downloaded to check the structure for you I'd try renaming it and running cleanmydrive again.

Remembered some search terms... Seems F16 for 'Central control unit, right main headlight, right rear light unit' is the common one to fail: - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/444945-fuse-keeps-melting-in-engine-bay/ - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491362-anyone-else-had-this-fuse-melt-but-not-blow-might-need-an-engine-bay-fuse-box-for-an-fl-20-vrs/ - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/447376-skoda-superb-mk2-fuse-melting/

Random example to give you an idea of what it looks like, obviously the plugs would normally have wires coming out but they've been cut off

Neither mention PENS fault protection so yes, I'd expect both to carry a risk of electrocution in that circumstance. They probably count as portable appliances so are subject to different regs to a permanent wired EV charger. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much in a dry garage, it's not uncommon to find other metal bodied appliances like fridges or tumble driers in that area. If there is a power cut, make sure you unplug the charger from the wall first using only plastic parts