langers2k

No, you cannot apply the key yourself!!! As an example, take a look at 000054830A. It's a MIB2 Standard (Bolero/Amundsen) Smartlink activation kit which clearly states it will require ODIS. It also needs online access to update the Skoda servers to show your VIN now has Smartlink activated. This part number will not work for you as I think you have MIB2 Entry (Stream) headunit. At least in the UK, typical prices for Smartlink at a Skoda dealer are £135-170. I assume you're in Europe but I'd expect a similar price in €. You might find a independent garage with the right equipment but as the monthly subscription costs are high, most don't use ODIS.

Yeah, I'd agree with the above, don't start messing with things until you have: - made a backup (long coding + adaptions) - understand how to compare the current coding/adaptions to the backup - find the history of changes - are happy you're able to revert things I've never used OBDeleven so I can't give any specifics. If you can figure it out, it might be worth making a short guide? Something like 'OBDeleven first steps before you change anything' If you're new to coding (which it seems like you are), l'd very much suggest looking at some of the common tweaks and seeing which, if any, you'd like and trying those first. You'll soon release there are a great many options, some of which may seem almost identical in both German and may miss certain nuances when translated to English.

Pretty sure activation can only be done using ODIS (dealer software). The smartlink enablement codes need to be added against your VIN on the Skoda servers. Your headunit can then be updated with the new activations.

You need an activation code and then a dealer can enable smartlink for you. It'll be around £150 if I recall

The alarm siren has a non-replaceable battery to ensure it can sound if the main battery has been disconnected. At least on a MK2, it has a 'service life' of 6 years (if I remember correctly) but this doesn't mean they fail at immediately at 6 years - mine lasted 9 years. Most people won't notice the battery is flat as I don't think there are any symptoms but it should throw an error code on a scan. Maybe the MQB sirens last longer but it's still just a matter of time before they are likely to fail

Read the fitting instructions for your headunit? I expect it'll need: - power (permanent for settings etc) - switched (to turn on/off with the ignition) - ground Where these will attach, is completely down to the headunit manufacturer... It might help if you confirm exactly what you're trying to fit and add some pictures so we can see what you're doing/have done so far. The CAN simulator connects to permanent power, ground and the two CAN-bus wires. It'll create a switched ignition live based on the CAN-bus messages it sees. Assuming the new live you ran from the fusebox is switched, there is no need for it

There is no ignition switched live for the stock Skoda radio. It only has permanent power and ground, on/off etc is done over CAN-bus. You'll either need to run a new feed from the fusebox or use a CAN simulator to create one

Pretty sure that's correct. It might just be a lack of VC settings but I think it's map display too, @pab567 can correct me if I'm mistaken. Some MIB2 units can be reworked into MIB2.5 units but that's definitely a question for pab... May not work out that cheap given shipping/taxes both ways from Australia...

F is a MY15 which is typically August 2014 to July 2015 build dates. I guess it could have been one of the very last pre-MIB2 style headunit cars

Yup. The RNS-310 style doesn't have any internal storage for maps so it always needs a map CD or SD fitted to show maps. The RNS-315 style does have in internal storage for maps so it's very likely this is what you have

Welcome! That could be either an Amundsen (RNS-310) or Amundsen+ (RNS-315) which look identical but take different maps. It might help if you turn it on and grab a picture from the system information/versions page showing it's part number to confirm which edit: If it can display maps without an SD or CD inserted, it's a RNS-315

I think you'll also need a wiring adapter along with coding to get the newer rear clusters to work

Have you got an autoscan from VCDS and the adaptation map from 5F you can post?

I completely agree, I would never fit them! It was taken from newbie link where they ordered H8 leds. This is what they received: But I don't think the left bulb is a H8/H11/H16 version, if it was, I'd expect it to look like this: The design you posted: Is exactly what I fitted to my FL MK2 Octaiva. However, rather than being a genuine Philips version, it was a cloned Chinese thing that was significantly cheaper

It's very hard to tell from the test you posted, as far as I can tell, there are 7 potential codes: Raw code: 904F12 Raw code: 000035 Skoda: B10AE38: High pressure sensor Skoda: B152613: Lower convert. top compart. cover switch Skoda: B118F12: Convertible top open position switch Skoda: B10C929: Left side vent motor Skoda: B11C911: Solen.val. for bleeding lumbar support 1 However, most don't seem to be obviously google-able so I'm concerned the scanner isn't being completely helpful with them. For instance, I'm pretty sure you don't have a convertible Superb 11.4v is a very low battery voltage so they could be related to a failing battery.

Well that's quite a chunk of text! No idea how many codes that's suppose to be? Can I suggest you clear everything and see which, if any, come back? As for your SOS error, this seems a obvious starting point: 2021: B14A612: Emergency call speaker Short circuit to B

The fusion mode is a setting in the A5 front facing camera rather than the headunit It also worked as expected with a MIB STD2 PQ Amundsen (from a Yeti) with an appropriate camera in my MK2 Octavia. I think it's only the Bolero and below (non satnav) that can't deal with fusion mode.

I don't think they sent a H8 It could be a 9006 (HB4?) based on the listing? I think the H8/H11 version should look like these:

The 'essential' versions are slightly cheaper on eBay at ~£65 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224314963244 the fan might put you off though. There used to be cloned versions of the Philips X-treme Ultinon which were fanless and cheap. I had a set on my FL MK2 Octavia which were great, think they are sat in the garage somewhere now... H8, H11 and H16 are basically the same bulb with different wattages. The three tangs are slightly different shapes but with a quick trim can be made to fit in either fitting

@newbie69 - how much would you like to spend Powerbulbs have a selection of branded bulbs: - https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-ledriving-fl-led-h8-h11-h16-twin - https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-ultinon-essential-led-h11-twin - https://www.powerbulbs.com/eu/product/x-tremeultinon-gen2-led-fog-lights-h8-h11-h16-twin - https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-ultinon-pro9000-led-h8-h11-h16-twin

Completely, different countries get different spesc so things can get confusing. Example brochure attached for UK models... I wanted a highline front camera, heated seats and auto folding mirrors so it was either a L&K or vRS 245 edition. There were no used L&K's so I 'had' to get the vRS 245 Luckily the original owner had spec'ed DCC and I've added a VC + highline RVC. Next up is direct TPMS and RGB footwell lights and hopefully that'll be it for now. Octavia Brochure Nov 2017.pdf

Retrofits tend to be personal preference as to what's important and how much it's costs. It'll also depend what spec your car has to what's just software tweaks rather than hardware changes, For example: - a vRS gets lane assist, satnav and fogs as standard which means that high beam assist, traffic sign assist and cornering fogs are trivial software tweaks - on your 1.6TDi (not sure of the trim?) you can probably only enable cornering fogs as it probably doesn't have a highline front camera A good starting point is to find a local member with VCDS or similar to find out exactly what modules you have to make an informed decision about what's possible Simple things like reversing cameras tend to be a popular first mod.

Normally it's caused by sitting on the keys and pressing down the unlock button 😂 Could anything have been pressing on them?

I had my VC coded remotely using a vas5054a. It was the immobiliser, key pairing, odometer and component protection. I tweaked the lcode and adaptions afterwards to get things working perfectly using VCDS. It'll depend who does it but I'd expect it to be less than €100... As my car is a MY18, I only needed to add the MOST optical cable, replace the under dash trim and replace the steering wheel buttons (view button) to get the factory fitted feel 👍

Any battery that'll physically fit and matches the existing technology should be fine. As mentioned above, you can update the capacity in the battery monitoring to match Much like tyres, spares or anything else, everyone will have their own preferred batteries. I've used Bosch and Varta previously without issue.