langers2k

The brackets etc can be specific to the front or rear (car model etc), however, I think the actual sensor is the same. That being said, there is a good chance just the link arm has snapped but I don't think it's available as a separate part. For the front, I'd spray some lubricant on the two ball joints, it should be pretty stiff as it'll only move with the suspension. This is where I found the part numbers: https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Skoda/brand/17/0/Superb/Superb (2009 - 2013)/Skoda/bHA4RXNnejhaZy9idGVqT1daWFFRdz09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:4c2e20e94021f4be4d301b9c2ce0a9f0/universal/10110->12847/bHA4RXNnejhaZy9idGVqT1daWFFRdz09--::632941250::941025::383862/bHA4RXNnejhaZy9idGVqT1daWFFRdz09--::632941250::941025::383862 The autodoc page might be using generic images. I'd contact https://www.coverdalecarparts.co.uk/ with your reg/vin and ask about the rear sensor, they've been great whenever I've needed bits and reasonable for a VAG parts supplier

Could be a dying battery?

Do you have a dashcam or similar? They have been known to cause interference with DAB

I think you want 3T0 941 273: https://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/sensor/oem-3t0941273-xenon-autoleveling-sensor-for/ Might be worth taking a few pictures of what's fitted so you can compare

Shouldn't do unless you do something completely wrong 😉

I would imagine a small increase would be fine, just remember to inform your insurance company. A better plan might be to fit smaller alloys and stick with an approved tyre size, just check for clearance around the brake calipers

I expect the bluetooth failure may be hardware rather than software, there have been a few reports of it failing on MIB1 headunits. As for the drive mode button, it may just need a new button or the existing one checking/cleaning. If you've not had it long, I'd be tempted to contact the dealer who sold it to you

Never noticed this with my MY18 vRS and my pixel 2 or pixel 5. To the OP, I'd be temped to factory reset the headunit and see if that helps.

This looks about right and is a very reasonable price: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32840149507.html Few options depending how much of a kit you want and if the original radio has one or two antennas. There is some of the display pinout here: https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/mib2-display-screen-wiring-need-help.447215/ If you're serious about creating your own loom, I'd suggest buying an hours access to https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/ to check the wiring etc...

I believe the cooling system layout looks like this on CR engines: Where: 1 - Expansion reservoir 2 - Radiator for exhaust gas re‐circulation 3 - to auxiliary heating 4 - from the auxiliary heating 5 - Cylinder block 6 - Heat exchanger of heating system 7 - Throttle valve 8 - ATF radiator 9 - Coolant regulator 10 - Engine oil cooler 11 - Coolant recirculation pump 2 -V178- 12 - Radiator 13 - Coolant temperature sender at radiator outlet -G83- 14 - 4/2 way valve with coolant regulator 15 - Coolant pump 16 - Cylinder head The question in my mind is where should the inline thermostat go given the original one is a 4/2 way valve rather than just an inline thermostat? I'd be concerned that an incorrectly placed inline thermostat could cause sections/components to overheat or even block the flow to/from the coolant pumps. I don't know enough about exactly how the system works to suggest a location

Depending on what sort of driving your doing, maybe use something to cover the radiator? If you're doing a longer drive or the temp gets too high, it shouldn't be hard to remove or trim at the side of the road. Obviously overcooling isn't ideal but assuming it can still perform a dpf regen, it's probably fine. I think I had a failing thermostat for about a year before I replaced it 😉

Pretty sure there is a button that appears on the radio screen to turn it off...

Front and rear suspension on the passenger side. You can see some pictures from my Octavia which should be very similar in this thread:

Yup, oil should be 90'C plus really. Just to point out, the coolant gauge lies. It'll show bang on 90'C for a wide range of temperatures, from 75'C to 105'C (or something similar) if I remember correctly. Apparently modern drivers expect the gauge to stay still rather than move with engine load.... Anyway, I had similar issues with my CR140 and a new thermostat fixed it. I logged the temperature before and after to check which I posted here: If you have a DSG, there is a separate thermostat for the DSG that's worth replacing first as it's much cheaper and easier to access

If the arm breaks on a level sensor, you won't get a system fault but it will effect the aim. Take a look to check both are in good condition and not snapped 👍

Given both sensors are reading low, it's more likely to be a thermostat.

Proper CH/LH needs a rain light sensor (RLS) plus an auto light switch then the settings can be configured via the maxidot (instrument cluster). There are no car related setting via the infotainment/radio for this generation, only via the maxidot. If I remember correctly, the vRS doesn't get a RLS, auto light switch or maxidot as standard I think you can get 'manual' CH (but not LH) by using this method: https://www.servicetutorials.com/en/2020/01/07/how-to-set-activate-coming-home-without-light-rain-sensor-on-vw-golf-mk6-gti-jetta-in-3-steps/

Taken from https://www.thatcham.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/January-2021-OE.pdf It's in the Category 1 section: So that would be: R - Remote T - Transponder S - Software Lock U - Ultrasonic M - Microwave L - Central Locking Anti-tilt motion/jacking up the car? Probably not, easy to check with a jack... Exterior proximity sensor/protection? Probably not, try kicking it or quickly dropping it off the jack Door, Boot, Bonnet, Trunk protection? Yup Battery Back-up siren? Yup (should last ~6 years and will create a fault code when flat). Thatcham category 1 or 2? Cat 1 I'm not sure a better alarm will deter theft. These days cars are often stolen to order so if yours fits, they'll still take it A tracker maybe a better option as at least the cops can hopefully find whoever took it.

I'd dump the H7 LED kit... It's not road legal and a decent set of halogens will give better light output, especially at distance where you need it. Just keep your headlights cleaned and aligned properly. As for the instrument cluster, it's probably the LEDs inside that are failing. It's quite common on the age of MK2 it seems. There is a guide on their replacement here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/425611-instrument-cluster-led-replacment/ Not on a MK2 Octavia I'm afraid The OP will need VCDS or similar to enable them. The exact coding will depend on the equipment fitted so it might be worth check the VCDS owners map and owners list for someone local who can help

Hopefully the car is still apart or they at least took some pictures of the parts for you. If the original ABS module has been refitted, a VCDS scan or similar should also confirm the part number - assuming it's still communicating

Assuming you did need coding, there are plenty of member with VCDS that are happy to do coding if required, it'll just depend where in England you are to who is local Anyway, I assume you're still trying to use the TEB7AS mentioned in your other thread? Not sure what the other module you've tried is? In which case, it seems others have had it working on a MK2 Octavia: - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/209000-tow-bar-bypass-relay-wiring/?do=findComment&comment=2470657 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/179204-mkii-fog-light/?do=findComment&comment=2155362 I'd wire it up as: - Yellow, left indicator - Green, right indicator - Red, brake light (either side) - Blue, fog light (drivers side as stock cars only have one side enabled) - Grey, reverse light (either side) - Black, securely taped up - Brown, securely taped up - White, a good clean earth point! You've not mentioned if you're using a single 7 pin (12N), dual 7 pin (12N+12S) or a 13 pin socket. Therefore, I'd suggest you use the screw terminals on the TEB7AS to check which are getting power. Colours based from this PDF: http://www.towbarsdirect.co.uk/images/M7-WK7.pdf

I'd contact the bypass kit manufactures and see what they suggest? Otherwise maybe ask a local towbar installer if they have any experience with the Octavia and what kit they would recommend. Personally, this is one of the reasons I prefer dedicated kits over bypass style on modern cars

A wheel speed sensor would... There aren't pressure sensors, instead TPMS is done by comparing the rotation of each wheel via the wheel speed sensors. It could also be a corroded reluctor ring that the sensor reads. Ideally, the fault codes need checking with something VAG specific like VCDS.

We don't tend to use model years in the UK to describe vehicle ages. In this case, I expect they have a 70 plate which is likely a MY21 with an MIB3 headunit.

I think it's actually developer mode rather than diagnostic mode? I don't recall needing to enable it when I did my firmware update...