Dean

There’s load for sale, just have to be willing to travel. I traveled over 500 miles there and back to pick up my VRS.

It seems @Evil is having the same issue... Not sure if he's fixed it yet.

It just means the battery has been taken off, the code can be cleared.

Good job on the carpet! I got mine dirty as soon as I got in it... I was so annoyed as I rested my foot on the foot rest and I had a bit of dirt on my boot. 😒 Car coming along nicely. 👌

PlastiDip works well to for the DIY'er and can easily be removed!

This isn't a feature to the MK1. This can be activated via an after market control unit (Alientech) or a KVW100 unit by ECS. However, these are quite old now and hard to purchase one. But I did find this link - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/kvw100-window-roll-up-down-flash-load-module/kvw100/ There was a way to flash the VW convenience control module to control the windows via key fob remote around 10 years ago. Again, this CANNOT be activated by VCDS.

Wow what a bump. You can now try eBay copies, or go to a scrap yard and take them out of any Octavia. Always worth taking as many as you can, so you’ve got spares.

Makes a world of difference on the long journeys. 😁👌I think I said you could just buy a replacement leather on on eBay which would save on having to retrim a spare.

I can’t remember, but I’d only buy genuine from TPS/Skoda if I’m honest. Never had an issue.

I wasn’t aware our MK1 Octavia’s came without electric windows? Even our basic spec in the UK and Europe all came with electric windows as standard. The only model I can think of is the pre-facelift ‘98/‘99. But haven’t never seen one, or an old brochure I’m unsure... However, well done for the job and tackling it. Never heard of anyone doing this on the MK1 or the MK4 Golfs. Pictures would be ideal in this post and make it a full guide. But, I can’t see many of us having a model without electric windows.

Drop into Skoda and ask them to check your reg and see if the recall on the coil packs have been done. As for replacing them all, I’d stick to OEM and they’re quite expensive being £30+ each. Probably be worth doing it if they’ve never been done and keep the old ones in the boot.

Oohhh, exciting times!! You’ll have to search around to see what sort of siren the forced used. Some used Whelen, others used Stirling (two tone or V2, these were used on a lot of Qcars), Premier Hazard, Woodway. There wasn’t just one brand, it seems that some of the same make of cars had different sirens/setups.

Possible Causes Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Timing misaligned I would have this looked at, as I remember the advert said it had a recent timing belt done? Part number is correct, but always worth checking it with TPS as they can get you a guide price.

I've just seen where you are, where about. (you can PM me if you want)

That's what I'm thinking.

That seems to be the answer that most people come to. If you know anyone with VCDS, it might be worth getting it scanned.

00 Does indicate that there are no errors. The 119 fault relates to a speed sensor fault.

You should be seeing at least 30MPG People issues: If you've done a full service, it might be worth checking your MAF, see when it was last changed, including fuel filter, etc.

Ahhhh, Joe's VRS estate. I knew this (before Joe bought it, Ollie, and even further back when Anna had it). Then it was on 64K which was a year or two ago. Extremely clean and went for excellent money. Nice to see he left the plates on it too.

I’m still failing to see the damage/crack. Can you show the actual subframe and not just the side view of the tie rod ends and ball joints. Interested to see as I haven’t seen this before, unless it’s been messed with before in the past as they use stretch bolts (one time use).

Holy crap. I made a guide to get the door open! 20 min job and the door should open. The guide works the same as all the doors. Simply cutting into the door model shows the cog that you turn. Take a breather, sit back and take a look and see how it all works instead of not thinking and going to town on the door. As 10 minutes of searching would’ve helped you a lot. That’s why we are here after all! Now you’re going to need a new lock, and possibly a new door, depending on how much damage you’ve done as you want it to seal correctly when shut in order to stop rain water.

As seen here, it connects to the loom, this is why sometimes if the locks or light buzzer goes, the mirror does too. (top left corner)

Door card off and bottom a pillar and disconnect it all and check it that way. Not that I know of, but it may piggy back off something else. Check the side fuse box and check for any blown ones.

Wouldn’t presume the wiring is ok or the connecting window regulator as it acts as a hub. So you could have a break in the wire or a snapped/rusted pin on the regulator. You need to check the whole loom which includes pealing back the tape.

Seals are still around, they cost about £38 each I believe. I did have the part numbers as I was helping someone else the other day. I’ll grab them later... Right, for 1 inner door seal (1U4 867 365 E) is priced at £30/£38 each. You’d need to double check with TPS as they might be a back order and prices may have changed.