Dean

I wasn’t aware our MK1 Octavia’s came without electric windows? Even our basic spec in the UK and Europe all came with electric windows as standard. The only model I can think of is the pre-facelift ‘98/‘99. But haven’t never seen one, or an old brochure I’m unsure... However, well done for the job and tackling it. Never heard of anyone doing this on the MK1 or the MK4 Golfs. Pictures would be ideal in this post and make it a full guide. But, I can’t see many of us having a model without electric windows.

Drop into Skoda and ask them to check your reg and see if the recall on the coil packs have been done. As for replacing them all, I’d stick to OEM and they’re quite expensive being £30+ each. Probably be worth doing it if they’ve never been done and keep the old ones in the boot.

Oohhh, exciting times!! You’ll have to search around to see what sort of siren the forced used. Some used Whelen, others used Stirling (two tone or V2, these were used on a lot of Qcars), Premier Hazard, Woodway. There wasn’t just one brand, it seems that some of the same make of cars had different sirens/setups.

Possible Causes Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Timing misaligned I would have this looked at, as I remember the advert said it had a recent timing belt done? Part number is correct, but always worth checking it with TPS as they can get you a guide price.

I've just seen where you are, where about. (you can PM me if you want)

That's what I'm thinking.

That seems to be the answer that most people come to. If you know anyone with VCDS, it might be worth getting it scanned.

00 Does indicate that there are no errors. The 119 fault relates to a speed sensor fault.

You should be seeing at least 30MPG People issues: If you've done a full service, it might be worth checking your MAF, see when it was last changed, including fuel filter, etc.

Ahhhh, Joe's VRS estate. I knew this (before Joe bought it, Ollie, and even further back when Anna had it). Then it was on 64K which was a year or two ago. Extremely clean and went for excellent money. Nice to see he left the plates on it too.

I’m still failing to see the damage/crack. Can you show the actual subframe and not just the side view of the tie rod ends and ball joints. Interested to see as I haven’t seen this before, unless it’s been messed with before in the past as they use stretch bolts (one time use).

Holy crap. I made a guide to get the door open! 20 min job and the door should open. The guide works the same as all the doors. Simply cutting into the door model shows the cog that you turn. Take a breather, sit back and take a look and see how it all works instead of not thinking and going to town on the door. As 10 minutes of searching would’ve helped you a lot. That’s why we are here after all! Now you’re going to need a new lock, and possibly a new door, depending on how much damage you’ve done as you want it to seal correctly when shut in order to stop rain water.

As seen here, it connects to the loom, this is why sometimes if the locks or light buzzer goes, the mirror does too. (top left corner)

Door card off and bottom a pillar and disconnect it all and check it that way. Not that I know of, but it may piggy back off something else. Check the side fuse box and check for any blown ones.

Wouldn’t presume the wiring is ok or the connecting window regulator as it acts as a hub. So you could have a break in the wire or a snapped/rusted pin on the regulator. You need to check the whole loom which includes pealing back the tape.

Seals are still around, they cost about £38 each I believe. I did have the part numbers as I was helping someone else the other day. I’ll grab them later... Right, for 1 inner door seal (1U4 867 365 E) is priced at £30/£38 each. You’d need to double check with TPS as they might be a back order and prices may have changed.

Unless I’m being thick I still don’t understand how this stops water? The cover is only there to protect the internals. Even with the foam or plastic sheeting, water will still trickle over it and sit on the bottom door seals... The only way to stop it coming in at all is with new inner and outer rubber sills. This is why over never understood why people say about the door cars letting water in when it has to go past the rubber door seals first. 😕

Worth checking the fuel filter and piping around it to make sure there are no cracks/split pipes. It’s quite hard to see around so worth looking around as much as possible and get underneath.

Cheers! Indeed they do relate to the RHD after checking. And as bonus, these are the foam version as I believe they don’t do the original plastic sheeting and change over to these quite a few years go. 1U4 868 395 F nsf 1U4 868 396 F osf 1U4 868 399 nsr 1U4 868 400 osr Looks like I’ll be putting in an order for these next month.

Nothing coded on the fuel pump. Replace with an OEM version from TPS or Skoda and you can swap it out. Ideally do it with low fuel or it becomes a messy job. I changed mine, but only as I went for an uprated one in my VRS to handle more power.

Yup, in my project link above. Both my 54 and 55 plate have foam coverings.

Ideally I want the foam version for the front doors. I shall have to look into it!

Can we get factory oem plastic door card sheets?

Thank you! Depending on how far you want to go. I'd strip down the door loom and then retape it up, and then use oem tesa tape to wrap it all up. I went through this when doing my looms (in my other thread), see here: Well worth doing if you plan to keep the car for a while. It seems that the water may have been catching on the metal and dripping on the to wire maybe?

Glad you got it sorted. Thought it was the dash fuse (as said elsewhere).