Dean

I think it would, Craig did this on the Yellow estate. He added a full brace behind the rear seats (where it would be on the hatchback) Fabulous read, and out does me on my build. Well worth the read if you haven't already.

5-speed 02J (EHA) gearbox from a Skoda Octavia RS (AUQ engine): 1st - 3.300 2nd - 1.944 3rd - 1.308 4th - 1.034 5th - 0.838 Final drive 1st-5th - 3.647 So in 5th gear @ 6000rpm you'd see 146mph. I've attached a .DOC file with all the gearbox ratios. Thanks to Nige8021. Octy Gearbox ratios.doc

I've only ever run 225/45/17 on mine. As for my estate (PD130), I've gone back to 16" wheels, as I found it handles a lot better, and my MPG has improved. The VRS version of the estate doesn't have any rear bracing like the hatchback, hence the reason they used the 16" variant of the spider wheels. Try out the 17" and see how you get on, but I would personally leave the 16s on.

As above. What model is the Octavia? L&K, Elgeance, etc. The superb also come with xenons, but I'm not sure on their specs/trim levels. If they've been retrofitted, it will most likely not be done right, as it's quite involved to get it retrofitted. Most, will simply buy the lights and have an adaptor harness to connect them. L&K will come standard with them, and it will also have the 5.5L washer bottle, headlight washers, no level button above the highlight switch (it will be a single roll button to control illumination) and will have the level units on the front of the lower control arm and also one on the rear suspension unit.

Can you not swap over the parts to the leather seats? Will take some time, but be nice upgrade?

I believe there is no coding as long as it is the same unit with the same part number. If you have a VW dealership anywhere near you, it might be worth speaking to the technical team to confirm this.

Looks like a bad LCD display, these do go wrong over the years. They can be replaced with another screen and someone who is good at soldering.

Yes, VCDS is needed in order to put the xenon lights in to learning mode, so they can be adjusted. As you’ll see and noticed, the lights move as the ignition is switched on. I usually get the garage to do it while having an MOT, as they adjust it before hand to make sure it is properly aligned. How to calibrate with VCDS. https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/xenonalignment.html

Good news!!

I think just refreshed new OEM will be just fine. They too will have to bed in, so it won’t be the same driving on 12+ year old suspension.

With pedal pumping, you risk rupturing the seal on the master cylinder, it's advised to use VCDS (as mentioned above). Also, there are two bleed nipples on the master cylinder, make sure you bleed both or you'll pedal will sink to the floor. It took me 2 days to finally work that out myself! I posted a video in another topic -

It's only for startup in order to heat up the cat quickly. I really wouldn't be spending almost the value of a MK1 Octavia on a secondary air pump. You can delete it, it's quite common. But if you want to keep it original, get a second hand on and swap it over yourself if you're any good with basic tools.

If you mean the door card, then there are screws around the edge and two in the handle and one hidden behind the speaker/window switch.

Make sure you bleed the reservoir too as there are two nipples. On VCDS it tells you in sequence on what you need to do. As you've found out, it will probably need to be done a few times.

A guy called Joey owns this, I don't think he's had it for long, mind you, a year or two. I've seen it around, doesn't seem to be ragged about and posted about, or for it to be bouncing off the limiter. Best way to know is go view it and see how it is.

All the best, and hope you get the money you're after.

This will instantly sell on the FB groups. As for stripping it, you'll end up having a load left over. I've seen a few in the last couple of weeks being sent off the to scrap yard with half the car still intact.

For the bit sitting on the door, it simply lifts up.

The topic is merely a duplicate of the advert. I shall look into turning this off as I don't need it necessary.

As above. It’s easy to just look. A wire can be broken and it look absolutely fine. The same goes for the connector blocks. You will need to do a continuity check, if you can’t do that the loom needs to come out and be physically checked. While it’s out you need to check the window regulator for corrosion too.

Might be worth adding a small guide or state any issues you’ve had along the way. Might help someone else who is looking to do it.

You’ll want a usb charger that can output 5A or have a dual one that can do 2.4A each. Make sure you phone supports quick charge 3. There’s quite a few one Amazon. Anything from Anker or Aukey is great!

Excellent thread Sheb. Nice to see another sticking to original parts and refreshing the VRS.

I'm glad the community has been help, and we hope to see you again soon. All the best!