Kenny R

Haven’t seen any warnings on genuine OEM running boards, only ever seen on cheap offerings that require a bit of butchery and weird brackets / mountings to fit whereas OEM fit perfectly to pre existing holes etc. link to fitting guide showing odd brackets etc of non genuine running boards... https://images.esellerpro.com/3749/I/111/534/Skoda Kodiaq Side Steps Fitting Guide.pdf pic of genuine...I know which I would choose...

Here is a list of some of the reasons coding is required on a Kodiaq. Make your own mind up if you want a bodged job that could carried out on old school cars with no ill effect, but modern cars require a bit more work to integrate with the vehicle electronics and safety systems no matter how much of a driving god you think you are and don’t think you need any namby pamby systems to help you. https://wibutec-shop.com/Coding-Activation-of-a-retrofitted-towbar-trailer-hitch-in-the-Skoda-Kodiaq-NS7-via-VCDS-ODIS-or-VCP-also-by-SVM-code

I’m afraid there is no such thing as a basic tow bar. The tow bar has to be connected and coded properly to the can-bus system of the car and depending on model, if it’s not got tow bar prep from factory, it may also require cooling system mods.

Hope it’s the proper 195x60 16” spare wheel you’ve bought instead of the thin space saver type advertised by some unscrupulous sellers on eBay. Instead of manufacturing a heavy surround out of wood or similar if you check auction sites there are often the foam surrounds for sale. Here is a complete kit and surround as an example.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Yeti-space-saver-spare-wheel-AND-kit/353270958931?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190606144518%26meid%3Daa904c11a071490e80ec13d18d78218b%26pid%3D101072%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D254761776904%26itm%3D353270958931%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2546172%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic&_trksid=p2546172.c101072.m2109

As above the Nest heat link replaces the old programmer, and has a 12v supply that can be used using the old stat wiring to supply 12v to the Nest thermostat. The Nest thermostat connects wirelessly to the heat link. You also have the option of changing the location of the thermostat using the thermostat stand, which lets you plug the thermostat into any convenient 13A socket. I chose the Nest over the hive as it one less hub required to clutter up the window sill.

I would choose the SEL as well but I may be a bit biased The only thing that would put me off is the sunroof, whilst nice to have they seem to be almost guaranteed to leak at some point. Having suffered horrendous leaks in my previous Yeti, I’d never spec another Skoda with panoramic roof.

Digital service data still on mine.

So is this a DVLA safety recall or more likely a dealer service campaign that would have been carried out at the cars 1st service that was due in May 2020 that you cancelled?

So according to that the 2.0 170 4x4 manual is in band F £145 the 2.0 140 4x4 manual, 2.0 the 2.0 140 4x4 DSG and the 2.0 170 DSG are in band G £185 so even more confusing.

Phone no. 0370 333 4449 [email protected]

You don’t say what model you are buying , but some models require engine cooling upgrades that are obviously done with tow bar prep at factory and may be expensive if required on a vehicle that hasn’t got the upgrade. Also the 2.0 150 tdi 7 seater with manual gearbox is not homologated for towing and a towbar cannot legally be fitter.

And in the case of the Karoq it’s the last two options it mostly uses to charge the battery and only using fuel if it really has to.

Does the 1.5 not have the dry clutch DSG which would make the 2.0 the best choice. edit: beaten to it by MarkyG82

Just going by the stories on here of DPFs being blocked and having to be cleaned/ replaced due to short, low mileage journeys and not ever getting hot enough to carry out regens. I wouldn’t know as I’ve never had a car/ tractor that’s ran on the fuel of the devil

With that low annual mileage petrol every day of the week. Any potential fuel savings from a diesel will be negated by maintenance costs of the DPF.

Presumably it’s a diesel then it’s normal...

Why do you have to have engine running? Just press the engine start/ stop button without foot on brake, ignition comes on, simples.

The wiper service position setting is exactly the same as the Yeti, switch off ignition flick wiper stalk down. And as above stop/ start is not wearing your starter or anything else prematurely.

If the wipers park vertically you must be pushing the wiper stalk down when exiting and putting them in the maintenance position.

The “wet” type DSG that you’re Kodiaq will have are proving to be reliable, it is the dry clutch type that are troublesome. As to ease of use, start car select drive and on you go it’s really easy. The Kodiaq is the first DSG I’ve driven, loved it on the test drive and ordered without any qualms. After the first week learning curve of not having to push clutch and stir gearbox, and learning to feather the brake pedal to allow the car to creep with with the autohold on it fair to say I don’t think I’d ever go back to a manual now, it’s really a brilliant system.

Yeah, you must have a spare wheel or raised floor option, which as you’ve discovered make the hooks pretty much unusable.

As above keep the ac on 24/7 365.

If by double locking you mean pressing the lock button on the remote twice, this disables the deadlocks and also the internal monitoring of the alarm system.

Have you tried here https://www.timpson.co.uk/services/car-keys