Kenny R

12.5V is reasonable, considering that a stop/ start battery is never charged to 100% to allow some capacity for regenerative charging.

The flying lead is never unprotected on a piggyback fuse no matter of its orientation. If it is fitted the “wrong way” all it means is that the accessory fuse is in series with the original circuit fuse.

I would be a bit worried using one of these, as it looks like if it is inserted the wrong way the flying lead could be un fused.

Not according to this... https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.practicalcaravan.com/news/first-drive-skoda-karoq%3famp

Surely if it wasn’t deemed necessary then the bean counters would have replaced it with something simpler and cheaper.

Think the clue is in the name, my Kodiaq has a warning that off road mode is only to be used off road and not to be used on normal roads.

Well, after MySkoda stopped functioning I followed the link for the new Myskoda and ended up with Skoda Connect app. Now the strange thing is, I now have what I used to have on the Connect app and stupidly paid £100 for, and I also had to pay for a prepaid data sim. I now have driving data, vehicle status, doors and lights, parking position, honk and flash, vehicle health reports, service partner. No mention anywhere of having to subscribe for this service as previously. The only thing is I haven’t got access to my service history that I had on Myskoda.

Salt from gritted roads tends to cause more surface rust on brake discs when parked up, and it’s normal to hear this being scraped off the first time the brakes are applied.

Your not alone.

On the Kodiaq it’s not the front Assist that applies the brakes when approaching other vehicles or objects at low speed, it’s manoeuvre braking that has to be activated in the infotainment menu. Assuming that you have front parking sensors. It also applies the brakes in reverse.

Are you touching the lamp glass when you’re fitting new lamps. Oil residue etc from fingers causes premature failures.

Well as I thought, Myskoda app no longer functions. Informed to download new Myskoda, link takes you to the useless Skoda Connect app. So now I’ve lost the only method I had of having service history etc available. I’ve had Skoda Connect before and I’m certainly not paying £100 for the privilege and also would need to buy a data sim.

As above all you need is a piggyback fuse plugged into an ignition controlled circuit and a cigarette lighter socket.

As the hight to the roof rails is 1.68m you’d need to add your top box hight.

You just put the new downloaded updated maps on to your Skoda SD card .

You have to download the maps to the Skoda card, any other SD card won’t work.

Hope you didn’t pay the full price £40 for the data plug, you can get them on a well known auction site for under £5. The Skoda Connect lite app is pretty useless, same as the other Skoda apps. I wonder if once they have merged My Skoda and Skoda Connect they’ll have the cheek to ask you to pay £100 per annum for the privilege as they did for Connect.

Gummi pfledge applied to the door seals should do the trick.

I’ve done this mod on my Kodiaq and it did make a difference to the throttle response. Direct Acceleration - Throttle response] With this mod, you can change the behavior of the accelerator. Option B provides a more linear acceleration without sudden deliveries. 1 - Module 44 - Power steering. Code (19249) 2 - Adaptation 3 - Select - switching driving profile Choices : A - Gradual, controlled by time B - Directly controlled threshold value

That part number is for Skoda spectrum alloys and are correct fitting for Yeti. I had them as winter wheels on my previous Yeti.

Never used mine, been in it’s storage position from first day.

Exactly having 4x4 on summer tyres in winter just means you can spin 4 wheels instead of 2 Also a 4x4 will still slip and slide braking on snow/ ice same as any other car on summer tyres. So your golf on Crossclimate tyres would easily out perform your Karoq on snow/ice unless you fit all season or winter tyres of course.

Even if they do break a window, the doors are deadlocked and won’t open.

What was the coolant level at when you purchased? Where was the level the last time you checked it. Where was the level when you checked it when the low level warning came on. Coolant level expands when hot and contracts when cold, so the cold weather could bring up low level warning if the level is at or below the minimum level.