Gissin

hmm carbon or alu frames? I've not read anything but if it's carbon then it does happen, at all levels of bike..i've seen 6K carbon bikes broken. 2 people i know have Vitus bikes and the build seemed top notch to me and they've not reported any issues, but like anything nobody really goes online to say how good the bike is, only reporting the issues they're having so imo the data is always a little skewed

what car is it? mk1 mk2 ... changing the exhaust on a tdi is not very effective without removing cat & DPF which will then fail a MOT, even then sound wise it won't sound sporty. possibly a cold air induction might help with some noise but you wont get any performance gains so quite expensive for just a little noise. best way get a bigger turbo

was it normal Stan's or race spec? if it's normal, chuck it out and get the race version it's loads better and seals quite big holes, also seems to last ages I've not topped mine up yet it's been in over a year

trek's are consistent and reliable I've got a old 4700 that I use as an xc it's covered thousands of miles and still runs sweet. you'll probably get a bit more for your money on a lesser known brand but it's a decent spec which will serve well

what's the sound quality like ?

yep was a loose heatsheild, all fixed and now nice and quiet again, stuck a but of heat mate over the area to stop any further conrrosion

ah that sucks man, if you have any paper money around (like the old style) chuck it in the sealant over the hole and it should seal. what sealant you using ?

are you sure a full sized steel wouldn't fit or is it different in the mk3, id have to check the size of mine i think its Thinner than the alloy but allows me to drive at >50mph

My local garage once told me they don't work with the sealant stuff and if you wanted a tyre change they'd advise me to go elsewhere that stuck with me and I've always had a spare wheel.

i have a Maxton splitter up front, it was delivered quickly, and fitted perfect had a query with the splitter and their customer service team got back to me straight away. I've since done around 1k miles with it on and no issues at all I have heard stories of them being funny with returns or issues arising if not bought directly from them

good work! if you're doing rides like this often and go full sus get one with a rear lockout will help loads, obviously disregard for a hard tail

the fixings are star nut locking washers and you can fit them with a long impact socket. looks like your heatshield has corroded through with the washers still in place so you will need to rectify this with either a new HS or larger washer as suggested above

Nice one so 5L0064241FKM the buttons will work or will they still need changing, if it's the latter is it worth finding ones with blanks such as 5E0064241H (or are these filled in?) i can scan my car now and check i've been looking at the following parts: New For VW MFSW Multifunction Steering Wheel Module Cruise Control 1K0953549CH 5051154188446 | eBay 1K0 959 653 C Spiral Cable Clock Spring For VW Touran Golf Jetta MK5 A3 Octavia 5714267814731 | eBay Part Number 5K0971584C MFSW Steering Wheel Cable Wire Harness | eBay

Chaps, I know there's lots of threads on this topic so i apologise for making a new thread but i'm struggling with what i need so ive got my eyes on a mk3 MFSW from a yeti part number 5E0064241J FKM although on OEM site it states' Not to be used in the Octavia RS or Octavia Combi Scout. Cannot be used for vehicles with a shock absorber (PR-1Q3)' does anyone know why? do i need to change the buttons from this one for a mk2 superb/ yeti? Mk3 air bag how do i know if i need to update my slip ring? car has cruise, maxidot, sensors, standard vrs wheel

could be injectors then you could also unplug the maf and see if there's any change, give it a clean too / stick a bit of silicone grease in the plug. it's worth having it scanned with something like VCDS to get a better idea. also download VAG DPF app to see if that could be an issue, there's a few threads on here with similar issues. when was it last serviced including the diesel filter

injectors, MAF, DFP(sensor/regens?) could also be sticky vanes on the turbo how's your mpg ? what kind of driving are you doing, how many miles has the car done? is this a new thing or new?

yeah i know! my friend was constantly refreshing the pages for days when buying his new bike, stuff was coming in a being sold literally the same hour. he got lucky i guess it's crazy people were reselling on ebay for £600 more than new calibre bikes were good for their money too but not sure what's happening with them since go outdoors went into restructure/administration

@olduns how are you getting on with the vittorias? I'm thinking of swapping to something less aggressive on the rear for summer

i've done a search but not found anything convincing, will it fit says yes they will but wondering if anyone had any real life experience I'm looking at a set of 19x8.5J in ET 45 looking at running 235/40's anyone got these fitted and any issues?

now you've got the 11-12 speed rears for MTB'ing there's not really a need for x3 up front saves weight, makes the setup and maintenance simpler and keep the bike quieter IMO it's a very positive change. ive just been having a look through this, didn't see this thread was active again yeah the voodoo's are ok and good bang for your money however for best i would go direct to consumer somewhere like chain reaction/wiggle etc. most bikes come pretty much set up and in pretty much ridable out of the box. 100% agree £1K and under stick to a hardtail, you'll get better components, 27.5+ is a cross between 27.5&29 as the rolling rad are pretty similar but you get some squish from the volume of air in the tyres. i lilke mine and its bombproof going down on the I4o rims ( i'm 17st and ride it like it stole it) and even at lower pressures and dodgy landing the rims are still bang on. personally vector in costs like pedals, saddle, grips as you'll probably want to change these are normally the stock items are passable at best. honestly right now sub 1K HT there's nothing close to Vitus: if you can stretch to 1200 this is a great buy Vitus Sentier 27 VR Mountain Bike 2021 | Chain Reaction Cycles check these out too Ragley Marley 2.0 Hardtail Bike 2021 | Chain Reaction Cycles Vitus Rapide 29 Mountain Bike 2021 | Chain Reaction Cycles

and could in fact make the car slower if it's noise you're after maybe an induction kit might help solve it (in the cabin at least)

what are you classing as a 'mid range tyre'? for the rs wheels you're looking for neptunes or zenniths. coil overs , if your roads aren't great you might be better with something like the HR cup springs and B8 shocks this would give you what you're after but still retain some comfort. steering wheel - why, why would you remove your drivers airbag also not sure if this accounts for removing original equipment and the fore wouldn't pass an mot without accompanying mods (roll cage etc.) I also couldn't see why it would remove vibration, if anything i think it would increase it with how its manufactured. but yes you can swap original wheel for a MFSW from mk2 or mk3 lots of posts on here about it. Regarding a bigger turbo, your injectors will need upgrading to suit, along with remap, fuel pump etc., etc.,-not worth the money or hassle IMO, if you want to go down that route swap it for a petrol body kits wise, obviously vrs kits will fit, aftermarket kits such as ingo noak, CSR, etc. brakes you can swap of a vrs for 312mm or A3 345mm conversion

i've used ps4's on mine for ages grips well in dry and wet never noticed a significant drop off when getting low on tread although there obviously will be a difference between a new and well worn tyre. there's a big island near me and even at the speed limit (i wont incriminate myself ) i barely get tyre squeal, never felt like I've got to the limit of grip the only others i would consider would be the eagle asymmetric

if you find one let me know! outside of the superskoda one the only other way i can think is finding on like the riger (for Mk3's) and getting a body shop to cut out the original bumper and plastic weld it in

it's pretty straight forward, you'll need a breaker bar to get the hub bolt out, penetrating oil and possibly some heat, take it nice and slowly.