26DIPP

This part of BREXIT has never been mentioned or I cared to ignore it. There used to be an agreement about reduced or no checks for parcels and even letters. In many EU countries the UK has been moved into a similar postage bracket, i.e. more expensive, to Switzerland and declarations are required. When sending to the UK it is the UK that is imposing extra VAT and import tax. This also now applies to orders from China, e.g. Aliexpress. So the UK could remove that extra burden for the Brexit loving citizens.

I have used a universal pulling tool. You keep the nut on for leaverage. Do not apply force to the thread. Oil and wriggling might work, but mind the spindle is part of the motor.

and not in 205/45-16, which is a FII size at all.

Are you saying you get a large MPH readout in the Maxidot? What is the coding and what year is yours?

Ours is 2009, i.e. pre face lift. You do not have that many coding options. Some are the old fashioned version of calculating and adding specific values. I do not think I coded needle sweep. The locking is called Auto lock. I think you can set that in the Maxidot....

The TSFI engines had a design "flaw". The piston rings have been changed in later models. Earlier ones had rings that silted up with oil and exhaust debris and lost the ability to keep the oil away from combustion. Thus your "normal" oil consumption.

I will do.

I MOT'd our Superb est. 2L diesel and was a bit surprised..... It passed, but I got one advisory and one print out for a voluntary action. The car has covered 1000 - in words one thousand - miles since the last MOT just before Corona hit. I did not get any advisory last year and still cahnged tyres for winter .... in the hope of going away. Anyway the advisory was that 1000 miles down the road the front brake discs are pitting. Admittedly there is a tiny step which I had noticed a couple of years ago. The voluntary action was re. my omitted dieselgate update. I will still not do it until it becomes compulsory.

I could have fallen into this trap. Stupid question - What makes a car more suitable for towing over a similar model where both cars have the same chassis, the same brakes and only the manufacturer's approval process differs?

Ross-Tech like some of the other VCDS forums ARE picky. I have a genuine VCDS cable, which I bought second hand. I can post in some of their forums, but for some reason I cannot post in others because it had not been ordered through them. Some other VCDS forums also only give full access if bought through them.

The "newer" cars have a chip soldered into the circuit board. The FII chip is still separate. You need an ID48 chip and a frequency of 434 MHz for the remote. Any locksmith can cut the blank blade and some locksmiths are able and willing to clone. You might need to bring your V5C. The complete key cost me £60.

I wanted a spare for my daughter's 2009 FII and ordered one on the internet with an uncut blade. Ours was £4.81 on Amazon. Then go to your local locksmith and have the blade cut and the immobiliser chip cloned. Our PN is 1J0959753DA. Open up your key to check the PN. This is what came up in a search. https://www.amazon.co.uk/SUNDELY®-Button-Remote-VOLKSWAGEN-434MHz/dp/B07LBLPXG7

Going by the weight and load index probably all can use a 91, but the workshop manual states the 1.8 TFSI can.

I started straight away with the spring compressors and used axle stands with a 2 tonne hydraulic jack. I think I would have run out of clearance. I had to change "standard" height springs. Maybe you have more clearance with shorter springs.

He could use a 205/55-16 91V. Recommended by Skoda.

Ask your wife to walk in front of the car, but warn her that she might have to jump....

You have started 2 threads with the same title. I have just replied to the other...

We have a S II from 2014 and I change from summer 18" to winter 16" regularly. The 18" ride comfort is harder but not too bad. The 16" is definitely smoother as you have more rubber to help the suspension. The S II weighs 1600 kg. Its fully loaded weight with passengers and luggage is permitted to be around 2200 kg. I would probably keep the 18" wheels untill the current tyres are worn down, unless the tyres are very old going by the DOT number on them as your car has only done 24000 miles. Winter tyres in the summer are a little worse compared to pure summer tyres, but defintely help in on slippery roads even if London does not see much snow. The S II is o.k. with 205/55-16 tyres and the manual states an ET 45. I had bought a set of Skoda 16" alloys and hated the look - the wheels were sitting about 2 cm within the body and it looked as if the wheels were just far too small. I then sold these and bought a set of VW alloys with an ET 37 - Road America - which makes the 16" look as flush as your current 18" wheels.

I have just had the middle section off on a 2009 1.4 petrol and from memory the middle section slips into the rear section and the clamp ..... clamps them together. I had to grind the bolts off as they were all one piece of rust, but as your mechanic had them off recently, they should still come off o.k. I did not have to use any sealant on that joint.

The BCM - J519 - is not really involved with the front electric windows. It is the J387 - driverside controller - and J386 - passenger controller and J393 - convenience module. J393 has CAN bus input, but not the door controllers. Bertie I would go back to measuring currents and continuity when the windoes work for 5 or 10 miutes and after they stopped working. When you get the function back after moving wires it suggests a broken wire or corroded connection. If the driver side window switch is not working, but lights are on it could be the earth connection. If the car was involved in an accident and repaired you might be hunting more than one faulty / failing connection. Is the OBD II port not compulsory for a MOT test these days? I might be wrong.

I changed the rear springs on my daughter's 2009 hatch F II 3. I used a spring compressor and loosened the dampers at the bottom. I have attached a picture of the rear drums. The red arrow shows the adjust which you have to push up with a screw driver through the wheel bolt hole in the 2 o'clock position on the right - blue arrow - and 10 o'clock position on the left.

This guy has given a very good overview on this topic. https://paulroberts69.wordpress.com/2015/10/01/upgrading-firmware-and-maps-on-vw-rns-510-satnav/ You can download new maps from gpspower.

When you jack up the car you will see some fat bolts looking past the tyre into the wheel arch. That point carries the wheight of the subframe and you can put your axle stand in somewhere there.

The car is not here right now, but from memory white reverse left, red fog right. Ours is 2009, so the same as yours.

Ours has one.