26DIPP

Given the choice of TPMS I would go for the indirect one. When I changed back to summer tyres and mixed and matched the wheels, i.e. former front and rear on one axle with different pressures, no punctures. The system warned straight away and was right. My wife's car has wheel sensors for the TPMS and winter wheels were another £120 extra about 6 years ago - those were the cheap aftermarket sensors. Just because I want a fancy display of four numbers? Also no hassle if ever the spare goes on as that one does not have a sensor fitted in most cars with direct TPMS. The car will pick up one corner without pressure.

You can download your map software from here for next time: https://www.gpspower.net/volkswagen-seat-skoda/360982-rns-510-rns-810-skoda-columbus-cy-europa-west-v17-maps-2020-a.html, then burn it onto a dual layer DVD and install OR google for maps tool and use the SD card method to install.

My daughter's FII passenger door is playing up similar to yours. Sometimes things work and then they do not. The open door did not always show up in the dashboard. I had the lock out to get the PN and just greased one of the microswitches and suddenly it is back to normal - just how long for. The rear doors only have one microswitch which could be the problem. I have one microswitch on order from Aliexpress now.

I "opened" the door to check access and if, what part I would need. I took the latch / lock out and while handling it, the CL did its trick again. After taking some pictures, I unclipped the outer microswitch, cleaned it, refitted it and put the door back together. Strange enough, the CL is not clicking anymore at will. I think it may just be a matter of time before the unprovoked actions are back. For now I will leave it. I did look at the youtube video about the opening of the electric part of the lock and will have a closer look at the circuit board then. Looking at the current flow diagram for the doors, the likely problems are the microswitches and the solder points to earth and pins 8 and 4.

On a genuine VCDS you get a Log of all the changes made, the china copy might have that still coded. So even if this is a cheap china copy look for the log and retrace your steps. Then return or bin your copy and get a genuine VCDS. Next time get an autoscan saved before you change anything.

I have a 2014 model like yours. Download the maps tool programme. There are several sites where you can get the latest maps download. Use the sd card option to update.

The central locking is playing up, locking and unlocking whenever it pleases. When you lock the car, it sometimes works, the dash also does not always show the door open. So I guess it is one of the microswitches. Skoda will sell me a complete lock / latch for £130, but no separate microswitch. skoda-parts.com do a microswitch and postage is 3x more than the switch. Are there any places in England that will do the microswitches?

What DID you do? Did you recode anything without a back up scan in the first place? As langers2k said, post a complete scan.

Not with 2mm to the outside and the inner will be almost the same.

You can still get the SIII estate L&K as TDI DSG 4x4 via configurator in France, Austria, Germany... why not in the UK?

The SIII alloys have a smaller offset - 44 vs 46- and they are 8in, i.e they will sit a little further out, NOT in.

I was going through the configurator, looking at / for a SIII estate L&K TDI 4x4 DSG amongst other things. There seems to be some kind of anomaly. Skoda seem to have stopped selling a TDI 4x4 as L&K, yet it is available as SE L. You can still get a TDI 4x4 as Octavia est, Kodiaq and in the last 2 even as a BiTDI 4x4 with 240 BHP. I do not think Skoda are too worries about the magic £40000 barrier because I can still spec some other models way beyond this.

On the SII the dealer price is 3 digits or you can download the latest maps off some websites and install via DVD or using a maps tool programme via SD card. I use the last.

Even if you clean the roof before you lay the protective mat on, after a motorway trip even in the dry you will have collected some abrasive material under the bag and it will start to sand the paint work. Rain and spray will probably throw up much more.

2mm drill, long 1G socket screw and superglue.

You cannot stall an automatic, so you can keep the stop / start switched on. If any it saves a bit on pollution and fuel. I sometimes stay in D / gear and just pull the handbrake.

This part of BREXIT has never been mentioned or I cared to ignore it. There used to be an agreement about reduced or no checks for parcels and even letters. In many EU countries the UK has been moved into a similar postage bracket, i.e. more expensive, to Switzerland and declarations are required. When sending to the UK it is the UK that is imposing extra VAT and import tax. This also now applies to orders from China, e.g. Aliexpress. So the UK could remove that extra burden for the Brexit loving citizens.

I have used a universal pulling tool. You keep the nut on for leaverage. Do not apply force to the thread. Oil and wriggling might work, but mind the spindle is part of the motor.

and not in 205/45-16, which is a FII size at all.

Are you saying you get a large MPH readout in the Maxidot? What is the coding and what year is yours?

Ours is 2009, i.e. pre face lift. You do not have that many coding options. Some are the old fashioned version of calculating and adding specific values. I do not think I coded needle sweep. The locking is called Auto lock. I think you can set that in the Maxidot....

The TSFI engines had a design "flaw". The piston rings have been changed in later models. Earlier ones had rings that silted up with oil and exhaust debris and lost the ability to keep the oil away from combustion. Thus your "normal" oil consumption.

I will do.

I MOT'd our Superb est. 2L diesel and was a bit surprised..... It passed, but I got one advisory and one print out for a voluntary action. The car has covered 1000 - in words one thousand - miles since the last MOT just before Corona hit. I did not get any advisory last year and still cahnged tyres for winter .... in the hope of going away. Anyway the advisory was that 1000 miles down the road the front brake discs are pitting. Admittedly there is a tiny step which I had noticed a couple of years ago. The voluntary action was re. my omitted dieselgate update. I will still not do it until it becomes compulsory.

I could have fallen into this trap. Stupid question - What makes a car more suitable for towing over a similar model where both cars have the same chassis, the same brakes and only the manufacturer's approval process differs?