26DIPP

Does anyone know whether the "Service Reset" in the Maxidot can coded in with VCDS?

Have you tried a radio reset?

How do you bleed the clutch without pressure bleeder?

You have to have the same tyre construction on one axle, i.e. radial or diagonal and you should not have to have the recommended size fitted. You can mix brands of the same size and type - summer, winter - on one axle. If you use yres that have provenly less grip in certain conditions, i.e. snow and a summer tyre on therear causing an uncontrolled spin and accident, your insurer / the may ask for a contribution from you. If you put the all season tyres on the rear with summer tyres on the front the car will be more stable but probably still not massively safe. Summer and all season will be o.k. until it is slippery and icy because they respond with similar grip levels in warm conditions.

If this discussion is about cost of insurance, if you have the option, try to get a multi car insurance. My daughter got her first car - Fabia 3 1.4 petrol - and the insurance with haggling as a multicar for her was £680 with standard access at age 22 a couple of years ago. We went for a cat N car repaired. I also took the fault tester to the car and used the DTC to get the price down. Use the tester after the test drive in case the seller has already cleared all the fauls for you. I did a oil change and brake fluid change for peace of mind. Apart from that it was just normal maintaince.

If your dad's car is a SIII the wheels will fit onto yours, but the tyres are specced up on the SIII compared to the SII. SII summer is 225/40-18 and winter 205/55-16, SIII is 235 and winter 215 on 17" wheels.

I did look through those, but I could not find a value with a similar name to block 011 - actuator, N75, Turbo actuator...- in the measuring blocks.

I tried to use the measuring block apporach, but cannot get into the measuring blocks in STG 01 as it is greyed out. Is there a way to make button 08 accessible?

Did someone try to do some DIY wiring to the fog light? Or the light switch itself? Just remove the right fog light. It comes out quite easy.

You should use a speed index to cover your car's top speed. You can go higher, but that often means you get a racier tyre which is often more expensive. If you drop the speed rating you have to remember this. Put a sticker into the dashboard or if your MFA allows set the lower speed rating in there and you will get a warning when you approach it. For the Load index you should cover the axle load of your car. You will have a plaque under the bonnet or on the B-pillar which tells you the axle load. Halve this number and that is the individual tyre load you have to have. The tyre load is translated into the LI. If you choose a higher number the tyre will have a stiffer sidewall and a harder ride.

I think this is your fog light supply. SII 2008 left head light.pdf

This is and update for the coil warning light I had last week. On the way back there was no warning light and all the power was back. The autoscan says that it is not the coil or DPF, but the actuator for the turbo waste gate was stuck, whatever this means. Googling for the codes is not very conclusive. Has anyone got experience with the codes? Codes DTC.txt

If you mean the large speed display in digitals, on the RHD it seems MpH and LHD Km/h. On MQB cars you can have both.

I was driving at about 77 MpH and had a sudden loss of power on the way to the airport. The car could hardly crawl up hills. After switching off and on the engine the light was off and power was back. The car has the scandal 2l TDI. 6 years old and 54000M on the clock. I have no DTC reading yet. On holiday. Is this the EGR?

Get your hand up behind the trim or remove the trim and try and wiggle the wires when you start while hopefully you have the problem. Put rubber gloves on if you go in blind. If anything is loose 12V can tingle.

Ask the dealer whether the FSH on the Haldex included a oil change only or filter changes - Skoda only recommend a oil but NOT a filter change. If oil only and the 120000 M change has not been done do the filter as well.

O.K., but Skoda UK will not do all the increase number of cam belt changes. The majority will go to independent workshops. So just a small financial gain.

See attachment Parking Aid.pdf

I have read this. In Germany they say 210000Km and no time limit. Driving profiles here are not very different from Germany. Why would the UK importer go against the manufacturers guidelines?

Can you really do this?

If it is the one above use the MOT advisory to barter.

It is also in your owner's manual.

The FII light switch automatically cuts the TFL pin. So DRLs are off when either side lights or main beam is on.

As a bored stiff Corona project I wired the fog lights in a 2009 Fabia II up to be used as DRLs. I got a 12V from the blue wire at BCM, XS4, pin T18a/9 (connection 61 in main wiring harness) which runs 12V only when the engine is running. I then connected it to the standard DRL switch in the fuse board. I used a relais to switch the DRL pin from the light switch - T17a/3 - to go onto the fog lights. In order to stop the dashboard front fog warning light to come on with the fog lights as DRLs I soldered a 30SQ045 - 30A 45V - Schottky diode in. This allows a forward current from the light switch to the fog lights and dash warning light but stops the DRL current to go back to the dash warning light. The parts needed are: DRL switch - 5J0 941 503 a relais a Shottky diode 30SQ045 a few spade connectors heat shrink tubing and some wire. Below is a DIY current flow diagram. Now while some cars that use fog lights as DRLs have an E-number stamped on the fog lights, I am using bog standard Fabia II fog lights. In the eyes of a very picky MOT tester this could be a fail, but you can always switch the DRL-fog lights off altogether.

I downloaded the attached file for DRL coding when I got the Superb new. VCDS - DRL.txt