26DIPP

Been there, done it. I have been caught out in snow on a motorbike a couple of times. It is doable, but neither fun nor safe and would still not recommend or sanction it. Having the right tyres on in snow can be real fun. With the wrong tyres it is doable but you can become the passenger in the driver seat...

And S K O D A across the back looks out of place and stupid too as we are at it.

The roofbox to roofbar fitting is different from one model to the next, even if from the same manufacturer. You can fit the bars first and then lift the box on top, but you need to know the clamp distance. I tend to fit the roofbox to the bar and then lift the bars + box onto the roof. Put pieces of cloth around the feet to avoid nasty paint damage. You do this with 2 people, then get the box straight before tightening everything. If you buy a wide box, look for one that opens from both sides, i.e. left and right.

This might have worked, but is a bit like the face masks and Coronavirus thinking it prevents cross infection. It gives you plenty of false confidence.

I know this thread is a few months old. If you look at the attached file and compare the properties of different oils you can see that an A5 oil is an A3 oil with improved viscosity - added A1 - properties to make it more fuel efficient, i.e. less viscous at lower temperatures. If you use the "recommended" Ford oil and add some of the old, left over Octavia oil your engine will be fine. 0W30 and 5W30 only differ in the fact that the 0W30 is less viscous and there is less friction and better fuel efficiency again when the engine is cold. I topped my Superb CFGB up with left over oil I used on the previous V70. The properties are not that different and even big franchised garages often have a contract with one oil supplier and fill your car up with something similar rather than the exact spec oil. This was an UK / EU requirement in the early 2000s to reduce fleet consumption. Oil_specs_2002.pdf

https://www.tvnow.de/shows/auto-mobil-174/2020-09/episode-39-thema-u-a-porsche-panamera-mit-lance-3424969 The link is to a german car programme. Go to 17:25 in the clip. Same issue on a Audi A3.

Press the 2 L and R arrow buttons at the top left and microphone button at the top R until it boots off and let go.

Does anyone know whether the "Service Reset" in the Maxidot can coded in with VCDS?

Have you tried a radio reset?

How do you bleed the clutch without pressure bleeder?

You have to have the same tyre construction on one axle, i.e. radial or diagonal and you should not have to have the recommended size fitted. You can mix brands of the same size and type - summer, winter - on one axle. If you use yres that have provenly less grip in certain conditions, i.e. snow and a summer tyre on therear causing an uncontrolled spin and accident, your insurer / the may ask for a contribution from you. If you put the all season tyres on the rear with summer tyres on the front the car will be more stable but probably still not massively safe. Summer and all season will be o.k. until it is slippery and icy because they respond with similar grip levels in warm conditions.

If this discussion is about cost of insurance, if you have the option, try to get a multi car insurance. My daughter got her first car - Fabia 3 1.4 petrol - and the insurance with haggling as a multicar for her was £680 with standard access at age 22 a couple of years ago. We went for a cat N car repaired. I also took the fault tester to the car and used the DTC to get the price down. Use the tester after the test drive in case the seller has already cleared all the fauls for you. I did a oil change and brake fluid change for peace of mind. Apart from that it was just normal maintaince.

If your dad's car is a SIII the wheels will fit onto yours, but the tyres are specced up on the SIII compared to the SII. SII summer is 225/40-18 and winter 205/55-16, SIII is 235 and winter 215 on 17" wheels.

I did look through those, but I could not find a value with a similar name to block 011 - actuator, N75, Turbo actuator...- in the measuring blocks.

I tried to use the measuring block apporach, but cannot get into the measuring blocks in STG 01 as it is greyed out. Is there a way to make button 08 accessible?

Did someone try to do some DIY wiring to the fog light? Or the light switch itself? Just remove the right fog light. It comes out quite easy.

You should use a speed index to cover your car's top speed. You can go higher, but that often means you get a racier tyre which is often more expensive. If you drop the speed rating you have to remember this. Put a sticker into the dashboard or if your MFA allows set the lower speed rating in there and you will get a warning when you approach it. For the Load index you should cover the axle load of your car. You will have a plaque under the bonnet or on the B-pillar which tells you the axle load. Halve this number and that is the individual tyre load you have to have. The tyre load is translated into the LI. If you choose a higher number the tyre will have a stiffer sidewall and a harder ride.

I think this is your fog light supply. SII 2008 left head light.pdf

This is and update for the coil warning light I had last week. On the way back there was no warning light and all the power was back. The autoscan says that it is not the coil or DPF, but the actuator for the turbo waste gate was stuck, whatever this means. Googling for the codes is not very conclusive. Has anyone got experience with the codes? Codes DTC.txt

If you mean the large speed display in digitals, on the RHD it seems MpH and LHD Km/h. On MQB cars you can have both.

I was driving at about 77 MpH and had a sudden loss of power on the way to the airport. The car could hardly crawl up hills. After switching off and on the engine the light was off and power was back. The car has the scandal 2l TDI. 6 years old and 54000M on the clock. I have no DTC reading yet. On holiday. Is this the EGR?

Get your hand up behind the trim or remove the trim and try and wiggle the wires when you start while hopefully you have the problem. Put rubber gloves on if you go in blind. If anything is loose 12V can tingle.

Ask the dealer whether the FSH on the Haldex included a oil change only or filter changes - Skoda only recommend a oil but NOT a filter change. If oil only and the 120000 M change has not been done do the filter as well.

O.K., but Skoda UK will not do all the increase number of cam belt changes. The majority will go to independent workshops. So just a small financial gain.

See attachment Parking Aid.pdf