26DIPP

The correct way to upgrade security would have been to measure signal time rather than the static fob way. When you are moving only slightly the fob is still sending and with a range extender your car can still be driven away.

The Maxidot on the pre FL does not have a temp. display.

I have not had uneven wear on the tyres on the 4x4 or a slave cylinder fail. The brake cylinder is pot luck. Happened on my daughter's car after 11 year and 90000 miles.

My daughter's FII had broken wires in the passenger door boot and I fixed it by soldering them. This way I had less material inside the boot - and I only did the broken ones.

I would look at the connector again. I had problems plugging in connectors after rewiring some terminals. If you cannot fit the connector look at the terminal wires again. One might not be fitted properly or slightly bent - even with the best care. I would also consider looking at the other front door and compare before trying to remove the door. Did you manage to fix the broken wire/s in the end? You did not say in the first thread what function was gone - unless I overread it.

Not much that needs changing, but I would have bought one with the bits I added - High line RVC, High beam assist, heated washer jets. And I would have preferred a different electric control to retract the wing mirrors.

To go back to the query... you will be limited to a shorter up to 140cm box and move it forward unless you want to loose the opening of your boot. You can remove the arial, but I would only slide the box back as far as the tailgate still having a decent opening and ideally not clash with the box on top. If you have the box overhanging the windscreen, you will notice that the box swings quite a bit with wind and any road bumps.

My daughter's car was doing just that and more. I left a thread response here omewhere recently. I read that it should be one of the microswitches in the door lock / latch. I used a screw driver and closed the opened door lock which provoked the fault - locking / clicking / unlocking of all other doors and no display on the dash. I took the lock out to check the model and also clean it. I only applied some more grease to one of the micro switches and the problems have disappeared - at least for the last 3 weeks ..... In preparation for the return I bought a microswitch as replacement on Aliexpress which is sitting in the drawer now. To distinguish between switch and broken wires in the rubber boot inside the opened door, wiggle on the wires which should provoke the fault.

If you go for a petrol TFSI avoid the ones that have a high engine oil consumption.

Given the choice of TPMS I would go for the indirect one. When I changed back to summer tyres and mixed and matched the wheels, i.e. former front and rear on one axle with different pressures, no punctures. The system warned straight away and was right. My wife's car has wheel sensors for the TPMS and winter wheels were another £120 extra about 6 years ago - those were the cheap aftermarket sensors. Just because I want a fancy display of four numbers? Also no hassle if ever the spare goes on as that one does not have a sensor fitted in most cars with direct TPMS. The car will pick up one corner without pressure.

You can download your map software from here for next time: https://www.gpspower.net/volkswagen-seat-skoda/360982-rns-510-rns-810-skoda-columbus-cy-europa-west-v17-maps-2020-a.html, then burn it onto a dual layer DVD and install OR google for maps tool and use the SD card method to install.

My daughter's FII passenger door is playing up similar to yours. Sometimes things work and then they do not. The open door did not always show up in the dashboard. I had the lock out to get the PN and just greased one of the microswitches and suddenly it is back to normal - just how long for. The rear doors only have one microswitch which could be the problem. I have one microswitch on order from Aliexpress now.

I "opened" the door to check access and if, what part I would need. I took the latch / lock out and while handling it, the CL did its trick again. After taking some pictures, I unclipped the outer microswitch, cleaned it, refitted it and put the door back together. Strange enough, the CL is not clicking anymore at will. I think it may just be a matter of time before the unprovoked actions are back. For now I will leave it. I did look at the youtube video about the opening of the electric part of the lock and will have a closer look at the circuit board then. Looking at the current flow diagram for the doors, the likely problems are the microswitches and the solder points to earth and pins 8 and 4.

On a genuine VCDS you get a Log of all the changes made, the china copy might have that still coded. So even if this is a cheap china copy look for the log and retrace your steps. Then return or bin your copy and get a genuine VCDS. Next time get an autoscan saved before you change anything.

I have a 2014 model like yours. Download the maps tool programme. There are several sites where you can get the latest maps download. Use the sd card option to update.

The central locking is playing up, locking and unlocking whenever it pleases. When you lock the car, it sometimes works, the dash also does not always show the door open. So I guess it is one of the microswitches. Skoda will sell me a complete lock / latch for £130, but no separate microswitch. skoda-parts.com do a microswitch and postage is 3x more than the switch. Are there any places in England that will do the microswitches?

What DID you do? Did you recode anything without a back up scan in the first place? As langers2k said, post a complete scan.

Not with 2mm to the outside and the inner will be almost the same.

You can still get the SIII estate L&K as TDI DSG 4x4 via configurator in France, Austria, Germany... why not in the UK?

The SIII alloys have a smaller offset - 44 vs 46- and they are 8in, i.e they will sit a little further out, NOT in.

I was going through the configurator, looking at / for a SIII estate L&K TDI 4x4 DSG amongst other things. There seems to be some kind of anomaly. Skoda seem to have stopped selling a TDI 4x4 as L&K, yet it is available as SE L. You can still get a TDI 4x4 as Octavia est, Kodiaq and in the last 2 even as a BiTDI 4x4 with 240 BHP. I do not think Skoda are too worries about the magic £40000 barrier because I can still spec some other models way beyond this.

On the SII the dealer price is 3 digits or you can download the latest maps off some websites and install via DVD or using a maps tool programme via SD card. I use the last.

Even if you clean the roof before you lay the protective mat on, after a motorway trip even in the dry you will have collected some abrasive material under the bag and it will start to sand the paint work. Rain and spray will probably throw up much more.

2mm drill, long 1G socket screw and superglue.

You cannot stall an automatic, so you can keep the stop / start switched on. If any it saves a bit on pollution and fuel. I sometimes stay in D / gear and just pull the handbrake.