26DIPP

Have they pencilled it out? The Superb does not have a left rear fog led.

Are they VAG wheels? The code is in the PN.

VCDS put a warning in red in to not change byte 18. If you cannot find someone with VCP it is a trip to a dealer.

You can get a handbook as pdf download. Ebay and gumtree are probably more useful to get a spare kit. Standard is 16". For 18" you have to remove the spacer ring from your boot floor cover.

If you search piston rings tsi you get some hits. Also look at this site. They have a picture of the newer piston rings. https://www.autohaus-dietler.com.au/repair-and-maintenance/tfsi-engine-high-oil-consumption/ I watched a you tube clip on a german speaking car channel about a change of the TSI rings a while ago.

VAG TSI engines have problems with the piston rings. Theoretically the engine has to be opened up and new piston rings fitted. This is a head off job.

The night breakers have the same power consumption as the OE bulbs. So there is no need to get thicker wires in. If you used 100W bulbs it might be different, but some people are not recommending this because of the excess heat and risk to melt the lamp rather than melt the wire.

To make a DIY fog machine for leak teating go to Youtube. They have several low cost suggestions. To occlude the complete PCV just put a large enough cling film over the cap and after a short while any vacuum - if the membran is ruptured - will suck the cling film in.

I had a turbo actuator problem on a Superb last summer twice on one journey. I did some reading, gearing myself up to remove and clean parts, but after clearing the code with VCDS it never came back.

An engine will run lean as well as rich. It might not be the most powerful or smooth, but it will essentially run! Lean and rich relate to above and below Lambda1, which is what your catalytic converter requires. If your engine runs rich, Lambda goes down and lean the opposite. Some engines are designed to run a little richer - like my air cooled bike engine - to allow for the excess fuel to condensate on the cylinder walls and through latent heat of evaporation cool the engine. A lean mix will do the opposite. As there is less fuel to eavaporate on the cylinder walls the whole system including exhaust gases will be a lot hotter. The crankcase and engine block run a negative pressure and any tiny cracks in the pipes and hoses around the air intake will lead to air entrainment which is not measured by an air flow sensor behind the air filter, but is in the intake air. You may find that the lambda sensor registers surplus air and tells the ECU to enrich, but you may not. If you check the exhaust gasses you might find a higher O2 content.

If your brake caliper is not seezing when using the foot pedal it has to be the hanbrake. Put the back of the car on axle stands and take the problem rear wheel off - if only one side seezes. Check the handbrake cable attachment and whether it releases freely. You could have a damaged handbrake cable and moisture is condensating on the inside and freezing over. Rear Brake.pdf

Bearings will make a noise mainly under load. The wheel bearing will get noisier when the affected bearing is loaded in corners, i.e. the wheel is on the outer bend. CV joints will get noisy under acceleration and quiet when declutching or lifting the accelerator. As Warrior193 said above you may have grazed the surface enough with the slight impact to get the drone. I would put money on the CV joint.

? Cambelt? or water pump?

We have "only" got a 1.4L petrol BXW engine, but even in the garage after some work with engine on afterwards, ours does not glow red in the manifold. It can happen at a turbo, but your 1.2 MPI is normally aspirated. If you have a problem with the O2 / lambda system and your fuel is burning too lean, i.e. you have air entrainment into the fuel mix from a punctured / broken hose your gases will burn hotter - a bit like O2 rich welding Check for continuity and damage of all the hoses in the engine bay. Your garage might be able to pressurize the system or put fog into the air intake and look for leaks. This will not show in any DTCs on VCDS unfortunately.

If it was the battery it should start straight away when jump started or after a good charge for the current battery. Also you should not have a start / no-start situation with the current one. Have you or have they checked the keyfobs to check whether the immobilizer interferes as it does not pick up the transmitter properly? One of my daughter's keys - a replacement - seems to have a weaker signal and sometimes there is nothing and on next turn it starts. Has the garage checked both parts of the circuit, i.e. 12v supply and earth points if there was work done on the starter recently?

I have never looked at taking the light apart. Looking at their website, the wipes are cleaning wipes rather than abrasive car polish products. How did you get to the lens?

Which part of the light did you polish?

your greasing might have solved the problem of a sticky caliper. If it comes back, check the piston rubber boot for damage. It might not be obvious, but any water in there could cause corrosion and a very sticky brake.

I managed to find my receipt and went back to ECP. They were very good. The advice was to get a new set of discs and pads and return the old ones. I went for a set of Pagid. The car is like new. The old Brembo discs had very visible and impossible to remove black deposits in patches and did not look good. I also changed my wife's Nissan Note front discs and pads last week and her discs, apart from being worn down, looked nice and silvery.

The full stop and capital key is on your keyboard for a reason.

Your fog lights are from the facelift model. I do not know what you have in the lights - fog light, cornering light, DRL. The FL still uses the switch near the fusebox and the BCM is similar.

Here are some more pictures The "loom" I made starts from both the fog light wire behind the fuse box and the blue wire - connection 61 from BCM, XS4, Pin T18a/9. I cut the fog light output behind fuse 38 - 2.5mm yellow / white - and soldered a loop in long enough to get it to the side of the dashbard. On the picture above I marked the "leg back to the fuse and the one out to fog light. Explained later. I then soldered a 0.5mm wire onto the T18a/9 wire. The T18a/9 wire runs to the DRL switch next to the fuse box. This is wired as a simple on/off switch. It then runs out to the side of the dashboard. This blue wire is only live when the engine is running and switches the "DRLs" via a relay. The relay below I used to only switch the "DRLs" on when the engine is running as the DRLs are not low powered bulbs and I thought I could drain the battery if I was sitting with ignition on and engine off, i.e. small current - from BCM - switches big current - fog light output. You run a wire from the light switch pin 3 - marked TFL - to the relais, solder one wire onto the ground wire (sorry I marked it earth) on the light switch - brown - and connect the blue wire from the DRL switch and the output to the fog light. I soldered a fuse holder onto the BCM output as a precaution. Next I cut the loop to the fog light and soldered my new output from the relais / TFL pin3 output onto the leg going to the fog light (marked DRL/foglight) on the first picture and then I soldered a Schotky Diode 30SQ045 onto the leg going back to the fuse box with a little extra wire and the closed the loop again. The Schotky Diode allos current flow in one direction only and stops the dashboard foglight lamp going on when only the DRLs are on. If you switch the fog lights on the dashboard lamp will come on. I went for a 30SQ045 as it can carry a current of 30A for the fog lights and will stop up to 45V going back.

I can post pictures of the "loom" if you are interested.

You can get the FL fog lights on ebay and elsewhere. Your light switch has a pin for fog lights. You just need to pull a wire out to the front and connect the negative to an earth point. It gets more complicated if you want the cornering function as you need a controller.

My daughter has got the F III system on the car. I went especially for Brembo BECAUSE of the name an reputation. And I bought them from Eurocarparts, so probably or hopefully not a fake copy off ebay. I guess I do not have a waranty case though and most likely have chucked the receipt. I was and still am really thinking down the line of suspension, but there is no give anywhere. I had the saddles off and the pins were o.k. and freshly greased. The discs look pristine....