26DIPP

I have just had the middle section off on a 2009 1.4 petrol and from memory the middle section slips into the rear section and the clamp ..... clamps them together. I had to grind the bolts off as they were all one piece of rust, but as your mechanic had them off recently, they should still come off o.k. I did not have to use any sealant on that joint.

The BCM - J519 - is not really involved with the front electric windows. It is the J387 - driverside controller - and J386 - passenger controller and J393 - convenience module. J393 has CAN bus input, but not the door controllers. Bertie I would go back to measuring currents and continuity when the windoes work for 5 or 10 miutes and after they stopped working. When you get the function back after moving wires it suggests a broken wire or corroded connection. If the driver side window switch is not working, but lights are on it could be the earth connection. If the car was involved in an accident and repaired you might be hunting more than one faulty / failing connection. Is the OBD II port not compulsory for a MOT test these days? I might be wrong.

I changed the rear springs on my daughter's 2009 hatch F II 3. I used a spring compressor and loosened the dampers at the bottom. I have attached a picture of the rear drums. The red arrow shows the adjust which you have to push up with a screw driver through the wheel bolt hole in the 2 o'clock position on the right - blue arrow - and 10 o'clock position on the left.

This guy has given a very good overview on this topic. https://paulroberts69.wordpress.com/2015/10/01/upgrading-firmware-and-maps-on-vw-rns-510-satnav/ You can download new maps from gpspower.

When you jack up the car you will see some fat bolts looking past the tyre into the wheel arch. That point carries the wheight of the subframe and you can put your axle stand in somewhere there.

The car is not here right now, but from memory white reverse left, red fog right. Ours is 2009, so the same as yours.

Ours has one.

Have they pencilled it out? The Superb does not have a left rear fog led.

Are they VAG wheels? The code is in the PN.

VCDS put a warning in red in to not change byte 18. If you cannot find someone with VCP it is a trip to a dealer.

You can get a handbook as pdf download. Ebay and gumtree are probably more useful to get a spare kit. Standard is 16". For 18" you have to remove the spacer ring from your boot floor cover.

If you search piston rings tsi you get some hits. Also look at this site. They have a picture of the newer piston rings. https://www.autohaus-dietler.com.au/repair-and-maintenance/tfsi-engine-high-oil-consumption/ I watched a you tube clip on a german speaking car channel about a change of the TSI rings a while ago.

VAG TSI engines have problems with the piston rings. Theoretically the engine has to be opened up and new piston rings fitted. This is a head off job.

The night breakers have the same power consumption as the OE bulbs. So there is no need to get thicker wires in. If you used 100W bulbs it might be different, but some people are not recommending this because of the excess heat and risk to melt the lamp rather than melt the wire.

To make a DIY fog machine for leak teating go to Youtube. They have several low cost suggestions. To occlude the complete PCV just put a large enough cling film over the cap and after a short while any vacuum - if the membran is ruptured - will suck the cling film in.

I had a turbo actuator problem on a Superb last summer twice on one journey. I did some reading, gearing myself up to remove and clean parts, but after clearing the code with VCDS it never came back.

An engine will run lean as well as rich. It might not be the most powerful or smooth, but it will essentially run! Lean and rich relate to above and below Lambda1, which is what your catalytic converter requires. If your engine runs rich, Lambda goes down and lean the opposite. Some engines are designed to run a little richer - like my air cooled bike engine - to allow for the excess fuel to condensate on the cylinder walls and through latent heat of evaporation cool the engine. A lean mix will do the opposite. As there is less fuel to eavaporate on the cylinder walls the whole system including exhaust gases will be a lot hotter. The crankcase and engine block run a negative pressure and any tiny cracks in the pipes and hoses around the air intake will lead to air entrainment which is not measured by an air flow sensor behind the air filter, but is in the intake air. You may find that the lambda sensor registers surplus air and tells the ECU to enrich, but you may not. If you check the exhaust gasses you might find a higher O2 content.

If your brake caliper is not seezing when using the foot pedal it has to be the hanbrake. Put the back of the car on axle stands and take the problem rear wheel off - if only one side seezes. Check the handbrake cable attachment and whether it releases freely. You could have a damaged handbrake cable and moisture is condensating on the inside and freezing over. Rear Brake.pdf

Bearings will make a noise mainly under load. The wheel bearing will get noisier when the affected bearing is loaded in corners, i.e. the wheel is on the outer bend. CV joints will get noisy under acceleration and quiet when declutching or lifting the accelerator. As Warrior193 said above you may have grazed the surface enough with the slight impact to get the drone. I would put money on the CV joint.

? Cambelt? or water pump?

We have "only" got a 1.4L petrol BXW engine, but even in the garage after some work with engine on afterwards, ours does not glow red in the manifold. It can happen at a turbo, but your 1.2 MPI is normally aspirated. If you have a problem with the O2 / lambda system and your fuel is burning too lean, i.e. you have air entrainment into the fuel mix from a punctured / broken hose your gases will burn hotter - a bit like O2 rich welding Check for continuity and damage of all the hoses in the engine bay. Your garage might be able to pressurize the system or put fog into the air intake and look for leaks. This will not show in any DTCs on VCDS unfortunately.

If it was the battery it should start straight away when jump started or after a good charge for the current battery. Also you should not have a start / no-start situation with the current one. Have you or have they checked the keyfobs to check whether the immobilizer interferes as it does not pick up the transmitter properly? One of my daughter's keys - a replacement - seems to have a weaker signal and sometimes there is nothing and on next turn it starts. Has the garage checked both parts of the circuit, i.e. 12v supply and earth points if there was work done on the starter recently?

I have never looked at taking the light apart. Looking at their website, the wipes are cleaning wipes rather than abrasive car polish products. How did you get to the lens?

Which part of the light did you polish?

your greasing might have solved the problem of a sticky caliper. If it comes back, check the piston rubber boot for damage. It might not be obvious, but any water in there could cause corrosion and a very sticky brake.