26DIPP

I managed to find my receipt and went back to ECP. They were very good. The advice was to get a new set of discs and pads and return the old ones. I went for a set of Pagid. The car is like new. The old Brembo discs had very visible and impossible to remove black deposits in patches and did not look good. I also changed my wife's Nissan Note front discs and pads last week and her discs, apart from being worn down, looked nice and silvery.

The full stop and capital key is on your keyboard for a reason.

Your fog lights are from the facelift model. I do not know what you have in the lights - fog light, cornering light, DRL. The FL still uses the switch near the fusebox and the BCM is similar.

Here are some more pictures The "loom" I made starts from both the fog light wire behind the fuse box and the blue wire - connection 61 from BCM, XS4, Pin T18a/9. I cut the fog light output behind fuse 38 - 2.5mm yellow / white - and soldered a loop in long enough to get it to the side of the dashbard. On the picture above I marked the "leg back to the fuse and the one out to fog light. Explained later. I then soldered a 0.5mm wire onto the T18a/9 wire. The T18a/9 wire runs to the DRL switch next to the fuse box. This is wired as a simple on/off switch. It then runs out to the side of the dashboard. This blue wire is only live when the engine is running and switches the "DRLs" via a relay. The relay below I used to only switch the "DRLs" on when the engine is running as the DRLs are not low powered bulbs and I thought I could drain the battery if I was sitting with ignition on and engine off, i.e. small current - from BCM - switches big current - fog light output. You run a wire from the light switch pin 3 - marked TFL - to the relais, solder one wire onto the ground wire (sorry I marked it earth) on the light switch - brown - and connect the blue wire from the DRL switch and the output to the fog light. I soldered a fuse holder onto the BCM output as a precaution. Next I cut the loop to the fog light and soldered my new output from the relais / TFL pin3 output onto the leg going to the fog light (marked DRL/foglight) on the first picture and then I soldered a Schotky Diode 30SQ045 onto the leg going back to the fuse box with a little extra wire and the closed the loop again. The Schotky Diode allos current flow in one direction only and stops the dashboard foglight lamp going on when only the DRLs are on. If you switch the fog lights on the dashboard lamp will come on. I went for a 30SQ045 as it can carry a current of 30A for the fog lights and will stop up to 45V going back.

I can post pictures of the "loom" if you are interested.

You can get the FL fog lights on ebay and elsewhere. Your light switch has a pin for fog lights. You just need to pull a wire out to the front and connect the negative to an earth point. It gets more complicated if you want the cornering function as you need a controller.

My daughter has got the F III system on the car. I went especially for Brembo BECAUSE of the name an reputation. And I bought them from Eurocarparts, so probably or hopefully not a fake copy off ebay. I guess I do not have a waranty case though and most likely have chucked the receipt. I was and still am really thinking down the line of suspension, but there is no give anywhere. I had the saddles off and the pins were o.k. and freshly greased. The discs look pristine....

My daughter's FII from 2009 has developed a judder / vibrations when braking. This happens when you brake light, but going for an emergency stop with the ABS kicking in there is no judder. There is also no vibrating when I apply the handbrake, so I guess it is something at the front end. The car pulls straight when braking. In 2019 I changed the front discs and pads for Brembo ones and the rear drums and shoes. I did a search for this juddering and some suggestions were rust, disc run out, uneven wear and suspensions problems. Following some advice I cleaned the wheel hub carrier, measured the discs - they are even looking at them with a gauge, the thichness / wear is the same. So I swapped them from side to side and greased the slide pins. The judder is still there. The MOT in November gave an advisory for wearing but not dangerous bushings. Can this cause a judder when braking? Has anyone had this on Fabia and got rid of it?

Since the Haldex Gen 4 the 4x4 kicks in automatically from stand still and in any acceleration and critical driving situation, not just when front wheel slip is detected. The SIII has got a Gen5 system fitted. As mentioned above it is programmed to split 50:50 front and rear if need be or as little as 95:5. With software tweaks it can be rejigged to a rear wheel bias. Audi used to use the Torsen in the in-line engine setups, but is also using transverse 4s now where a Haldex is more beneficial.

Intersting to read. It sounds a bit like a con. The manufacturers are still stripping the cars of anything for certification that may be added later to make the car useable and complete. So if you transport your 3 fat mates you would fall foul of WLTP. With regards to the spare you will find even cheaper used ones on Ebay. Just buy it after delivery.

I retrofitted heated washer jets on a Fabia II and fed a wire through a rubber bung in the bulkhead area near the right windscreen wiper. You only need to go to your light switch.

Ask a nice neighbour or friend if they have a multimetre to again check the battery voltage when the car is off and when the car is running. With a faulty alternator your voltage would be below 13.5V. Ask again if you can borrow their battery charger. Now as said above the garage needs to look abit closer! Is anything draining your battery? Are there loose contacts - earth and live?

Rescan and save when you have the DTC.

Hi, What are the tests that you have done? The best is the VCDS or VCP mentioned by aubrey. You will also be able to hear a subtle clicking when the igntion is on and the car in reverse if you go very close to the sensors. The sensor that is broken, will not click. You might not get anything since you put the Amundsen in because the CanBus system of your car and the Amundsen need an adapter to work, but I am not sure you get the display that you may get on the Dance Radio. A pre Fl FII uses a Canbus 1.6 and Amundsen Canbus 2.0.

Any clever / "smart" battery charger will do. I have used older, non automatic chargers and a smart one. Both charged the Superb battery and neither destroyed it. My battery is 7 years old and ticking over o.k. When you charge a start / stop battery or jump start - as mentioned in the video very dramatically - connect the positive to the positive battery terminal and the negative lead to a metal part in the engine bay or the body somewhere, NOT straight to the battery negative as you might "confuse" the battery controller. In the video the guy was talking about coding or programming a car's controller. When doing this your car's ignition is switched on, the car is draining a high current and you need to maintain the battery and if the battery went flat during a programming procedure you could "brick" the controller. This requires a much higher amperage in the region of 25A not 3 - 5A a "standard" battery charger can provide.

F II Alarm .pdfF II Central locking.pdf If you have not done it, it would also help to check for fault codes with a code reader. I have attached PDFs for the alarm and central locking. In both alarm and central locking the BCM - J519 - and the convenience module - J393 - have lots of connections and you could have a fault in the controllers.

Hamilton is a good driver no doubt, but after his recent seat swap with George Russell where someone, who has never won a point in F1 in a second rate car, suddenly dominates the field makes me wonder whether people like Kvyat or Hülkenberg or others, who have always had bad press for not winning or standing in the way and constantly getting blue flaggs, would be in the same position in Hamilton's Merc now with 7 titles to their name.

The S III 4x4 uses a Haldex Gen 5. Different roling radius is not an issue any more. On the Haldex Gen 1, which used a hydraulic system different size / worn tyres could brake the clutch. Do not mix summer tyres and winter / all season tyres. If you really need to do it, put the new all seasons on the back or you might get a 280BHP out of control rocket in dicy conditions.

If different elctrical items are broken all together in one section, it could be coincidental the supply pinched for all of them or the earth is loose or broken.

If it is not coded into the new switch you cannot. On newer models it is part of the BCM coding.

I always thought these guys know their trucks... or is he out on summer tyres?

I am or will be faced with a similar situation for wheel and tyre change driving the Superb II and looking to buying a Superb III. The S III has got the same PCD and hub centre size as the S II and the ET recommendations are similar - out by a few mm, which does not make much of a difference. My current alloys are Road America. I have used 215/55-16 winter tyres on our previous V70 and it was not at all like a marshmellow situation. My plan is to keep my current 16" alloys and swap to the bigger 215/55-16 winter tyres. benbro, your old chains will probably not fit the larger tyres, but as said above if you go for all season tyres with the S III's 4x4 you will get through most situations. Last winter - pre-corona - we were driving in the French Alps in fresh snow and it was actually quite fun driving in the S II. If you continue to use the old Octavia 16" wheels it will not "hurt" so much if you add another scar to the winter wheels.

Most car manufacturers of "family" cars will set the cars up with understeer. This is usuably easier to control for the "regular" driver as opposed to oversteer situations.

If the wiring is there it is a fat - 2.5mm - white and yellow wire. Not sure whether the corner light function would be via the same wire.

I am curious whether a indirect TPMS can be retrofitted to a FII 3 2009? I found some reports on the internet and looked at ERWIN. Apparently you "only" need to fit a TPMS reset button, connect this to the ABS controller in the engine bay, connect to switch lighting and earth - parts cost about £20 - and do some coding. Can anyone tell me whether the STG03 HW: 6R0 907 379 J is compatible with TPMS monitoring? After all it was offered on most F II models.