26DIPP

My daughter's FII from 2009 has developed a judder / vibrations when braking. This happens when you brake light, but going for an emergency stop with the ABS kicking in there is no judder. There is also no vibrating when I apply the handbrake, so I guess it is something at the front end. The car pulls straight when braking. In 2019 I changed the front discs and pads for Brembo ones and the rear drums and shoes. I did a search for this juddering and some suggestions were rust, disc run out, uneven wear and suspensions problems. Following some advice I cleaned the wheel hub carrier, measured the discs - they are even looking at them with a gauge, the thichness / wear is the same. So I swapped them from side to side and greased the slide pins. The judder is still there. The MOT in November gave an advisory for wearing but not dangerous bushings. Can this cause a judder when braking? Has anyone had this on Fabia and got rid of it?

Since the Haldex Gen 4 the 4x4 kicks in automatically from stand still and in any acceleration and critical driving situation, not just when front wheel slip is detected. The SIII has got a Gen5 system fitted. As mentioned above it is programmed to split 50:50 front and rear if need be or as little as 95:5. With software tweaks it can be rejigged to a rear wheel bias. Audi used to use the Torsen in the in-line engine setups, but is also using transverse 4s now where a Haldex is more beneficial.

Intersting to read. It sounds a bit like a con. The manufacturers are still stripping the cars of anything for certification that may be added later to make the car useable and complete. So if you transport your 3 fat mates you would fall foul of WLTP. With regards to the spare you will find even cheaper used ones on Ebay. Just buy it after delivery.

I retrofitted heated washer jets on a Fabia II and fed a wire through a rubber bung in the bulkhead area near the right windscreen wiper. You only need to go to your light switch.

Ask a nice neighbour or friend if they have a multimetre to again check the battery voltage when the car is off and when the car is running. With a faulty alternator your voltage would be below 13.5V. Ask again if you can borrow their battery charger. Now as said above the garage needs to look abit closer! Is anything draining your battery? Are there loose contacts - earth and live?

Rescan and save when you have the DTC.

Hi, What are the tests that you have done? The best is the VCDS or VCP mentioned by aubrey. You will also be able to hear a subtle clicking when the igntion is on and the car in reverse if you go very close to the sensors. The sensor that is broken, will not click. You might not get anything since you put the Amundsen in because the CanBus system of your car and the Amundsen need an adapter to work, but I am not sure you get the display that you may get on the Dance Radio. A pre Fl FII uses a Canbus 1.6 and Amundsen Canbus 2.0.

Any clever / "smart" battery charger will do. I have used older, non automatic chargers and a smart one. Both charged the Superb battery and neither destroyed it. My battery is 7 years old and ticking over o.k. When you charge a start / stop battery or jump start - as mentioned in the video very dramatically - connect the positive to the positive battery terminal and the negative lead to a metal part in the engine bay or the body somewhere, NOT straight to the battery negative as you might "confuse" the battery controller. In the video the guy was talking about coding or programming a car's controller. When doing this your car's ignition is switched on, the car is draining a high current and you need to maintain the battery and if the battery went flat during a programming procedure you could "brick" the controller. This requires a much higher amperage in the region of 25A not 3 - 5A a "standard" battery charger can provide.

F II Alarm .pdfF II Central locking.pdf If you have not done it, it would also help to check for fault codes with a code reader. I have attached PDFs for the alarm and central locking. In both alarm and central locking the BCM - J519 - and the convenience module - J393 - have lots of connections and you could have a fault in the controllers.

Hamilton is a good driver no doubt, but after his recent seat swap with George Russell where someone, who has never won a point in F1 in a second rate car, suddenly dominates the field makes me wonder whether people like Kvyat or Hülkenberg or others, who have always had bad press for not winning or standing in the way and constantly getting blue flaggs, would be in the same position in Hamilton's Merc now with 7 titles to their name.

The S III 4x4 uses a Haldex Gen 5. Different roling radius is not an issue any more. On the Haldex Gen 1, which used a hydraulic system different size / worn tyres could brake the clutch. Do not mix summer tyres and winter / all season tyres. If you really need to do it, put the new all seasons on the back or you might get a 280BHP out of control rocket in dicy conditions.

If different elctrical items are broken all together in one section, it could be coincidental the supply pinched for all of them or the earth is loose or broken.

If it is not coded into the new switch you cannot. On newer models it is part of the BCM coding.

I always thought these guys know their trucks... or is he out on summer tyres?

I am or will be faced with a similar situation for wheel and tyre change driving the Superb II and looking to buying a Superb III. The S III has got the same PCD and hub centre size as the S II and the ET recommendations are similar - out by a few mm, which does not make much of a difference. My current alloys are Road America. I have used 215/55-16 winter tyres on our previous V70 and it was not at all like a marshmellow situation. My plan is to keep my current 16" alloys and swap to the bigger 215/55-16 winter tyres. benbro, your old chains will probably not fit the larger tyres, but as said above if you go for all season tyres with the S III's 4x4 you will get through most situations. Last winter - pre-corona - we were driving in the French Alps in fresh snow and it was actually quite fun driving in the S II. If you continue to use the old Octavia 16" wheels it will not "hurt" so much if you add another scar to the winter wheels.

Most car manufacturers of "family" cars will set the cars up with understeer. This is usuably easier to control for the "regular" driver as opposed to oversteer situations.

If the wiring is there it is a fat - 2.5mm - white and yellow wire. Not sure whether the corner light function would be via the same wire.

I am curious whether a indirect TPMS can be retrofitted to a FII 3 2009? I found some reports on the internet and looked at ERWIN. Apparently you "only" need to fit a TPMS reset button, connect this to the ABS controller in the engine bay, connect to switch lighting and earth - parts cost about £20 - and do some coding. Can anyone tell me whether the STG03 HW: 6R0 907 379 J is compatible with TPMS monitoring? After all it was offered on most F II models.

Chemicals do mot loosen the soot / carbon deposits. A walnut shell blast with the intake tract removed helps and makes everything shiny and new.

I have attached the current flow diagram for the mirrors and windows. Work your way through it and you will find the fault. You will have to use a volt metre too. Door control driver mirror windows.pdf

It is a flat battery. When you start driving the lights will go off one by one. The stored DTCs will need to be deleted with a code reader or VCDS.

What tyres did you have on the 18" wheels? Did you change make as well as wheel size? I had Continental Sport Contact once and they were very noisy.

I usually start on setting 3 and the come down to 2 or 1. You can change the setting with VCDS.

Does this make VCDS obsolet?

I retrofitted an autodimming mirror and heated washer jets. Did you need any special adapters to run the double DIN radio with the CAN 1.6 of your 2008 F II?