HeavyMetalRich

It's entirely possible that it's a coincidence and another, unrelated fault has appeared while the work was being done. A diagnostic plug in will confirm where the fault lies. The simplest thing to check from a self help stand point is the electrical connection to the ABS sensor, take the wheel off and you will be able to check that the connector is seated properly. If the fault wasn't present before the bearing went in then I suspect the sensor has possibly taken a knock or gotten damaged during the changing of the bearing. The only fix is a new sensor which isn't the end of the world. The other, catastrophist diagnosis is that the mechanic has damaged the bearing while fitting it. If this turns out to be the case, they should sort it for you.

Gah! One would appear at time when I was unable to keep my eye on the pages wouldn't it. Typical.

First thing would be to check the wheel nuts are all tight. Then I would be looking for rubbing marks on the inner wheel arch liners, contact with them can sometimes sound like a suspension clunk. Sometimes. Really the best way to check your suspension is to get both sides of the car jacked up ( on an MoT testing lift would be ideal) and check all the suspension joints then turn the steering to full lock either direction and get a lever in to work the joints again. Realistically, it's probably one of those things you won't be able to replicate and will only ever do it in that particular set of circumstances. I hope this helps.

I think the salty air up here helps things like these on their way a lot faster than would normally be the case.

Mine was a '67 plate 2017 model and the resistor went after approximately two years. I was shocked when it stopped working. The one in our previous Roomster did six or seven years.

There should be five or six screws holding in the glove box. Once they're all undone, the box should come out fairly freely. Look along the top and bottom edges just inside the lid and right inside at the bottom of the bottle well. If you think you've got all of them and the box still can't come out, there's still one left. Hope this helps. Also once you've released the box don't forget to disconnect the light and possibly the airbag switch (although this might not be required).

Can't speak for the OP but for myself, all of those bar the tie rods are new. I do have new ones to go on but again they've been checked and there's no play.

I have a similar issue and have checked everything and am of the opinion that it is my C.V. joints. It does sound like top mount clunk but they've been checked several times and are good.

What was the weather like at the time of the first incident? There might well have been ice on the road, it doesn't matter what tyres you have on, on ice they will lose grip if the limits of traction are broken. Even frost might have been enough to have the same effect if the road surface was very smooth. However you might be worthwhile getting a diagnostics plug in and check the ABS system for faults, it's highly unlikely that there would be a fault and it not show up as a light on the dash. I trust the brakes are well serviced, fluid changed etc?

If you have separate full and dipped beam bulbs, the most common cause of full beam misalignment is an incorrectly inserted bulb. Try taking it out and putting it back in, ensuring that it's seated correctly. You should be able to see the alignment nubs if you look in from the front through the light lens. If you have changed many car bulbs before you might not even need to take the bulb out to feel it's not in correctly. Hope this helps.

I had a 15 plate vRS 220 hatch. I loved that car and in particular the performance, the amount of space, the comfort of the seats, the headlights and the look. I thought that car was so smart in the Black Magic with the silver Gemini wheels. What I didn't like was that water splashed all over the back seat when I opened the boot lid on rainy days, the road noise and watching it go.

Yeah I've polished my lenses with the Autoglym kit with an attachment that goes in a drill. T-Cut wouldn't touch them. That's also a very good point @Bepis about the bulbs being difficult to change. I meant to link to this thread earlier but forgot to: But OP has probably experienced this fact already.

Just to add to the conversation, halogen bulbs that glow brighter will tend to last a shorter time due to them heating up the element more to produce the brighter light. I have original Night Breakers in my Mk1 dipped beams, need to upgrade my full beams, they don't add much.

You might be worth having a check of the big clip around it too if you haven't already. That is all that holds the tank on and I would think that might be slightly loose if it's fallen off. A little nip with the o-clip pliers or side cutters might be all it needs. Edit: Nevermind, I've just seen your thread in the MkII forum. 👍

It's the vehicle manufacturers/parts suppliers that don't want the garages replacing pistons and seals for whatever reason. You'll not get any repair kits from them like you used to. You need to go to the more specialist/ general suppliers like mentioned above.

Do those drums have the adjuster wedge or have they got the more usual winder rods? Either way, you'll be able to stick a flat screwdriver in through the wheel bolt holes and pop the wedge out or wind off the shoes. If it's a winder adjuster, it will be quite fiddly but if you have someone or something push the brake pedal, it will make it a little easier.

I had an Ikea delivery of 29 items to pick up last month. I wish I'd taken photos. I had already taken the rear seats right out but due to the length of some of the items, had to push the front passenger seat right forward. I got it all in. I have to say though, I don't find the Karoq as handy for space as my Octavia or Roomster. The Roomster was best as it's effectively a van already but I got quite an amount of odd shaped things into my Octavia hatch as well.

You can access your terms and alter your mileage and therefore payments (assuming you have your PCP with VW finance) on the VW Finance website. Or you could phone and speak to someone there. But you can work out how much you will have to pay at the end for over mileage (estimate anyway). The price per mile will be in your contract. You can then compare if you will be better off paying as you go or wait until then end of the contract if you choose to go that way.

I wouldn't be surprised if 215/55R16 rubs in the wheel arches. They are a large tyre.

Yeah it's just wax/oil residues burning off. You might even get a little light coloured smoke but try not to be alarmed by that, it happens too. You shouldn't get it for more than a couple of weeks if you're driving fairly regularly or maybe more than a month if you're not using the car much.

I personally usually use the sharp centre punch method if the tool hole has rounded out. It can be a little trickier on these smaller headed screws but I've never had it not work.

The drill might take a few goes until it wears down the torx "teeth" to make a nice round hole. Should get easier after that.

The 190ps? I thought they did put that in, not for very long mind you. I would think the 150 TDi should be able to get to that sort of figures too? I could well be wrong on all counts though.😁