HeavyMetalRich

There should be a rubber boot going through the bulkhead containing the wiring loom somewhere about there. I would think that would be the best way. Do you know anyone with a Polo or Ibiza you could have a look at to see how it's done on them?

Changing the intercooler is a bumper off job which is probably more daunting than it actually sounds. There is a decent video on YouTube on how to do it and the guy even removes the intercooler too. Worth considering if you're not adverse to getting your hands dirty.

You might be able to see just by lifting the front (engine bay) edge of the scuttle panel. It might not be able to lift high enough to see without taking the wipers off by which point you're as well to take it right off anyway. The drains exit into the wheel arches behind the inner liners though. So checking the other end isn't so easy. Hope that helps.

That is not the best outcome unfortunately. It's not a do it yourself job unless you have access to a lift and tools. The EGR unit is just under the turbo along the back of the engine. The valve and cooler unit come as one from VW. You need to take the exhaust, the driver's side drive shaft and a number of coolant hose off (plus probably a few other bits I've forgotten) to get it out. You'd probably be looking at 6-8 hours of labour if I remember rightly. And that's ignoring any other problems along the way.

In the passenger footwell, under the glove box, there is a long rectangular shaped cover under a textile trim held on with two plastic rivets. The cover may have another bit of textile trim over it but this should just pull off. Slide the locking tabs towards the middle of the cover and it should come down revealing the filter. Remove the filter noting the direction of airflow arrows or the direction of the slope of the top of the filter. Clean any leaves, insects etc with the vacuum cleaner. Insert the new filter in the same direction as the old one came out, refit the cover and slide the locks back out to the ends of the cover. Replace the textile trim and plastic rivets.

You would need to get the codes read but if there are no other symptoms, it could be that one of the exhaust temperature sensors has failed. There is one that is quite prone to it.

The most common semi permanent fix is to drill a hole put a self tapping screw through the pipes close to where the clip is. The pipes are pretty expensive to buy if you can find them new, used ones are likely to be in a similar state to what you have already.

The sensors can be susceptible to damage from hard jolts of the kind you get by running through a pothole. If you're really unlucky, the reluctor ring could have de-magnetised too. But I think replacing the sensor will solve your problem.

Could it not be rubbing against something that is mobile behind the panel? The heater pipes or something?

My Roomster was the same. I never looked hard enough into the reasons for the symptoms as I had to replace the power steering pump and pipes just before the injector went so the decision was made that it was time to go. I suspect that it would never have been the same again unless I'd done all four at the same time possibly with recutting the injector seal seats as well.

The red car is now up for raffle here.

No bother. The rubber bellows where the wiring goes from the car into the door will be your best starting point for the mirror issue I would say.

Stick your now spare light back on the auction site and maybe advertise it in the parts for sale section here.

Ok so, just to be clear, it doesn't work when you pull it towards you? If that is correct then I think you're on the right track with the connection in the stalk. Try giving it a clean with contact cleaner before you go buying a new one. It might just be gunked up.

It should do. The in-tank pump you should be able to hear working for five or so seconds when you turn the ignition on.

Do you hear the pump working when you pull the stalk?

Nope that's perfectly normal. It's a vacuum reservoir.

There's nothing wrong with modifying them at all. Whatever folk want to do. I wouldn't be surprised, though, to learn that there are fewer standard Fabia vRS than there are modified ones now. Personally I'm just not into getting big power, lowered suspension etc. I like subtle modifications/upgrades that can be done with parts from elsewhere in the VAG stable or unselected options from the original list for the car.

You'll have to keep your eye on the auction website. Sets do pop up every so often. I realise it's probably just the one you're after, same as myself, but you might get lucky and find one. The floor clip should be on there too. They might still be available new though.

I still have my standard 06 plate vRS. It's in need of a bit of attention, some of which I intend to do this weekend in the form of replacing the steering rack. There will be other bits and bobs done at the same time too like replacing the N/S/F (final) shock and spring. So new suspension all round.

The car had probably just started a DPF regeneration. You probably didn't notice but the idle should have been sitting at about 1000rpm. The subsequent drive on the dual carriageway would have allowed it to finish. However it could just have been steam from the exhaust system as it warms up after sitting for a while being for sale (not sure of the circumstances of that side of things though).

And have you noticed any difference fitting it?

As @Warrior193 suggested, I would have gone with wheel balance at the mention of it vibrating at a certain speed. However as you suggested that it went away when off throttle, I think I would be looking at a C.V. joint being worn and throwing a drive shaft out of kilter as well. One check you could do yourself though would be check your wheel nuts are tight. You just never know...

Just to give @fabdavrav some feedback on his experiment, I fitted the harmonic damper to the rear subframe of my Octavia and instantly noticed a quieter vehicle on my usual commute. It certainly reduces rattling from the rear suspension and reduces other noise transmitted through that into the cabin. A definite improvement IMO. I can't say that I've noticed the drumming/logs tumbling sound that others have heard but that might be drowned out in my car by the sawblade worn tyres causing a worn wheel bearing type drone in mine?? Next for me will be wheel alignment and some new tyres when they wear out.

I do see this happen to brake pads relatively frequently up here. It is one of the reasons it is essential to have your brakes inspected at each service and any separation of the material from the backing could be caught before getting to the same point as @xman.