HeavyMetalRich

You'll have the slots cut in the edges of the cap to sit over the flap as demonstrated perfectly by @toot's pic. My previous Fabia was the same age. 👍

Or if you have a facelift ('18 and on) then you might have a pin sticking out of the bottom of the cap which fits nicely into a hole on the "arm" of the fuel flap.

It won't just be iron contamination on the paintwork, you'll have tar and possibly tree sap as well. If you use some kind of tar remover and your iron off before using the clay, the clay will have less work to do. From my experience with the Roomster we had, the paint was pretty good so hopefully it won't take you too much work to get your car looking decent again.

It's possible it might just have a speed limiter. That was standard on SE until at least '67 plate. But yes a pic of the left hand stalk will tell you for definite.

If all of the appropriate wiring is present and the correct stalk fitted, reprogramming shouldn't be too much of a bigger step forward. It's amazing what can be done with the VCDS program. I'm sure there would be a few more knowledgeable sorts around the forums here that would be able to help get something to work. I have a '21 plate Monte Carlo now and haven't paid much attention to what it has fitted in the way of cruise or limiter. I will check tomorrow if I remember.

+ Another 1 for Goodyear's. Got my Dad Ultragrip 9s for one Citigo and the the Vector 4 Season Gen2s for the other. Both lasted well for about three/four years until both cars were sold in January still with decent tread. Both used 14".

Did you trim the mudflaps or your bumper Pete? 😁

SE only came with the speed limiter as standard. I would say that you don't actually have cruise control. Front assist is merely to give you warnings that you're too close to the car in front and the braking assist system.

Unless that they're not following the routing they need to take correctly, I would think that they're not the right parts.

The aluminium tubes should be available separately, I've replaced ones on a Golf before that completely disintegrated in my hands as I removed them. Can't remember any part numbers or anything unfortunately.

Seeing your work has inspired me to get mine done. I think mine is a bit worse than yours' was to begin with but still seems to be solid enough. I am considering doing all of the underpaint work myself and getting one of the body shops up here to do the colour and lacquer as the car is Black Magic and it would bug me if I just painted over with black as I have been told to do many times.😄

Great job Rich! Were you not tempted to go higher up the sill with the stonechip? Also can I book you to do mine?!😂

You should be able to see them through the wheels. However, they are not expensive you could buy one or two of each kind. They are usually one kind for the front and the other for the rear and so getting two of each should do all of your calipers eventually.

The N/S is different as it doesn't have the hole to feed air to the intercooler.

The dipped beam "lights on" indicator is on the light switch itself. No tell tale on the dashboard.

To clean them out better you'd be worth getting some compressed air and blowing it back through the nozzles while the pipes are disconnected.

Just do what they do with the diesel engined ones and have the o/s one a fake!😂

Just looking at that rear end pics again Trevor, I wonder if the strip reflector off the Octavia could be made to fit along the edge of the bumper under the number plate and could you get a more squared off tail pipe finisher to make it a bit less VW and more vRSy?😂 Not suggesting you must do anything with it, just wondering out loud!😁

What you get up to with routers and dinners while your car is stripped down is nobody's business but your own!😂 On a more informative note, is there any brand/supplier that folk have had really good experience with? I think I'll be needing ones for my vRS this year and will probably go genuine but am interested to hear if there are maybe any stronger made joints out there?

It looks like these are just for standard cars the top option being for the hatch, the lower being for the saloon and estate. I don't think the vRS ever had an option for the rears. Someone more knowledgeable can correct me if I'm wrong though. I trust the OP is therefore aware that the mudflaps themselves or the bumper will require a little modification to fit?

Yeah that skin isn't stainless for whatever reason, but underneath that should be stainless and should still be in good condition. Just take that outer bit off if it's becoming detached.

Getting the old disc off and the new one on with the carrier still attached is very possible with the smaller rear brake setup. I have had to do it plenty of times for the same reason the OP stated as their problem. The carrier contact points for the pads are also just as easy to clean up as of you'd taken the carrier off too. You just have to be careful not to get brake grease on the new disc as you put it back in.

Ah right, with you now. Originally there would have been a stud with an open thread the same as a self tapping screw sticking out from the bottom of the car that a plastic nut would go on to secure the tray. However, the cars don't actually need the extra undertrays, many don't even come with them from the factory. If you still feel you'd rather have it on though, a self tapper with a big washer will do the job, just watch for possible wiring harnesses etc inside the car if you use long screws. Hope that helps!

The undertray doesn't screw into anywhere near the sills. Do you mean the sub-frame (bit all the suspension and engine is bolted to) or another undertray that covers brake pipes and fuel lines etc? Not to be patronising but incase you're not clear, the sills are the bottom of the sides of the car.

You could try unhooking your cables and have someone pull on the handbrake lever while you pull back, having sprayed the cables with some lubricant. Keep working back and fore for a bit occasionally topping up the lubricant. This will maybe free up the cable or will confirm they need replacing.