HeavyMetalRich

I would have your wiring loom inspected before jumping to dumping the car. There's an awful lot of faults there that could be caused by broken wires. Worth checking first.

The speed sensor circuit is the ABS circuit. You'd still need to get a diagnostics test to read what fault code(s) is present to point you in the right direction. The testing of components can be daunting if you're unfamiliar with a multimeter and how they work. There's only one way to get into it though and that is to give it a go. Testing the resistance of a sensor is quite easy as you have to unplug it and there are only two contacts to probe. I'll be honest, I'm not sure what reading is decent, I would think a quite high one taking into account the sensor is a coil of wire. However if you get a reading that can't be read or says "OL" then its a fairly safe bet your sensor needs replacing. If you get a decent reading then that probably points to the bearing. Let us know how you get on.

It seems to be the audio files themselves on USB need to be MP3 or FLAC. Older systems used to read anything but newer ones don't seem to like any other file types. I'm going to have to redo my partner's music on her SD card as the stereo in the new Monte Carlo doesn't like the files whereas the old car did.

Mine is doing the same. You'd need to get a diagnostic plug in to point you in the right direction. Mine says it has a fault for an implausible signal from the O/S/F wheel speed sensor circuit. That could be a faulty sensor, slight break in a wire or a wheel bearing losing its magnetism. I'd need to resistance test my sensor and wire to rule them out.

"Cycling the ignition" is the car equivalent of turn it off and turn it back on again!

The 1.6 TDi is bad for needing a certain exhaust sensor, if I remember correctly diagnostics will say sensor three but it is actually the second sensor along the length of the exhaust, just before the DPF. If you remove the airbox, it can be replaced with a bit of difficulty from the top. I think your mechanic was being a bit pessimistic saying that the sensor might break, the VW exhausts (provided its still the original) are generally long lasting and don't weld the sensors in. So it shouldn't be too much of a problem to have changed. With regards to when to change it, you will probably be able to nurse the car along for a while, the fault will remain intermittent,cycling the ignition usually resets it or you could do it with your newly acquired technology. But the fault will become permanent at some point and it will have to be done to sort it. The torx screws holding the radio in will be either T20 or T25. Good luck.

The only way to adjust the travel is to take them off the splines and rotate them a bit. Shouldn't need much to decrease that unswept area, a couple of splines maybe. Also it shouldn't be difficult to do on a car as new as that.

Ok thanks. I'll get the air box sorted first and a few other bits for MoT and then see about the hiccup. It doesn't affect the normal running of the car, it only happens now and again so I'm not overly worried about it.

Yeah so people seem to think. I have tried messaging a few of the guys with ones up here but most of the vRSs here are modified already and the air boxes are long gone. Still one guy I haven't heard back from. I live in hope! My Fabia has a bit of a cough/misfire type hesitation on over run. Could this be a symptom associated with the vacuum not being able to build up due to the air box not sealing? Or is it more likely to be something else?

Thanks, I have considered this and is probably what I will end up doing. I would have thought that for the number of people that modified their air filters, there should be loads available but they probably just get thrown out.

Hi guys, I am in need of a top section for the air box of my Fabia vRS. The rear lug has broken and the box doesn't seal properly. I have priced a new one from TPS which I will keep as my last resort. Somebody out there must have one right? And be willing to post it up to Shetland? Anyway what I would like to know is; are the top sections the same for the different power outputs of 1.9 TDi but maybe with a different diameter trumpet inside? I was inquiring with the nearest breaker's yard and they had one but said it was off just a Fabia diesel and was a different part number so wouldn't work although it looked to be the same shape. So any help clearing this up would be much appreciated. And anybody with an air box or top section they'd be willing to part with, feel free to send me a message. Cheers.

Fabia Monte Carlo comes with a flat bottomed steering wheel too so don't forget to look at other spec levels for extras.

I think it would look pretty good. Can't decide if it should be in black or red though. Probably if the roof were to be painted or wrapped black too it would look decent.

I always thought the rear spoiler from the Fabia Greenline looked fantastic. Probably not what you're looking for though. https://www.google.com/search?q=skoda+fabia+greenline+rear+spoiler&safe=off&client=tablet-android-sonymobile&prmd=isvn&sxsrf=ALeKk00TP5jEt_8VuOI8mkoKcYEna0ywpw:1619901114509&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj4_ID0qanwAhVMZMAKHZa-DtwQ_AUoAXoECAIQAQ&biw=960&bih=600#imgrc=QigtZepvgsgG6M

A sudden, albeit seeming small drop in the tyre temperature caused by driving through a wet patch of water from a dry road (more likely in the winter) can activate the TPMS warning. The warning is usually for all four tyres in those circumstances though.

If you can get a jack under the joint and an air gun to the nut, and try to work it back and fore it might come off. You will be worth cleaning the threads with a wire brush and use plenty of release oil. If however the nut grips again and starts spinning the stub, get an angle grinder with a cutting disc and slot it in under the nut and cut it off. Make sure you cut the nut off and not the joint off the bottom of the taper. Release the jack and if the taper has taken a grip again, use your joint splitter as I'm sure you would figure out. Hope this helps. I had to do mine a few weeks ago.

My apologies, thanks for pointing me straight @AGFalco. I'll be honest, I haven't had any dealings with the older 1.2 & 1.4 TSis so didn't realise the mechanical pump was on the other side. Most of the Fabias and Octavias here are diesel or newer petrols. I have seen an MPi timing belt being done on an Up and the belt on the other side of the engine was replaced too. Are the four cylinder engines a similar set up?

Wheel bearings seem to have a wide variation of quality these days. One of the guys I work with had to replace a bearing on his Golf GTD last year which was four years old and similar mileage to your Fabia. At least they've made them easier to change, but that's maybe part of the problem? As for your water pump, you'd be getting it replaced next year with your timing belt anyway wouldn't you?

The Colour Edition combo of this blue and the black accents make a really great looking little car. And this being such an easy car to drive should make it a joy to learn in. Lucky girl!

If you get a fault code reading taken on your car, any problems with the aerial will show up as a code. This might help point you in the right direction. However, I highly suspect that you would find a code that says something along the lines of "Aerial base, short to ground." The bases seem to be a weak point. My Dad has two Citigos, one of which he has replaced the aerial base already and the other needing one so you'd be worth checking that first. Hope this helps you get it sorted.

There's probably a build up of corrosion where the bead sits (possibly the valve) that is allowing the air to escape. If you don't want to have to be keeping topping up your tyre pressures, you'd be worth getting them sorted. Obviously the best option would be for you to have the wheels fully reconditioned but that is probably the most expensive option too. If you were to take the car to a tyre place, they would take the tyres off, clean the rim back to the metal, paint on some bead sealer then refit the tyre. This is the procedure that they would probably charge you in the region of £20 per wheel for. It's not really something you can do yourself unless to have access to tyre fitting equipment. Hope you get it sorted.

Soak it all with WD-40 or something thin like that and work all of the pivoting bits back and fore with a screwdriver until they can spring back freely by themselves. Only then should you cover it all with grease. Should keep you good for years. Doesn't hurt to keep refreshing the grease though. Hope you get it sorted.

I think you can see the plastic stop just behind the subframe mount looking like it's creeping around the bend of the anti-roll bar in @Kharl's photo.

Great project. Sometimes the more simple cars that make better bases. Anyway, as I'm sure you're aware, if you're having to pump the brakes to get them to work, you might be worthwhile checking the rear drum brakes are clean and free and well adjusted. It makes such a difference to the feel of the pedal. If you do that then you'll be able to tick off being able to stop from your list of wants!

Ideally you would want to test both of them to see if you notice any difference. I can speak from experience of a hatch with both engines and with just three people on board, the difference isn't that noticeable. However I would imagine with more of a load on, the 110 would be better. You're not just getting 15 more horses but about 40Nm more of torque and an extra gear in the 110 over the 95ps though so there is that to consider. Another option would be going a bit older still and seeing if you can find one with the 105ps 1.4 diesel (if you're not against diesel) and then you definitely won't be short of power.