HeavyMetalRich

The infotainment system should just search the device until it finds media folders to play. I have an SD card I take in many different vehicles with me and I've noticed that some systems don't like certain file types. Fortunately for the OP, MP3 320Kbps seems to be a safe type so far.

VAG genuine part numbers are 6Q0423803 & 4 respectively. I have a pair for my car and they both came with track rod ends already attached. You can maybe cross reference those numbers. I haven't measured the length of them but I can do if you need.

It will be on the wheels and the bodywork, same as tar from the road and said brake dust. It's the very same stuff you see on the brakes. Just think; where does it go when you use the brakes? It's all interspersed with the brake dust and as stated above, if you wash your car frequently, it shouldn't be much of a problem although it will still be there. Most fallout removers have the colour change formula and will turn purple or red when iron oxide is present also meaning there should be no change if there is nothing there. And again, as @AriGold said, you don't need to use it every time wash but it is a good idea to use in your pre-polish wash routine.

I wouldn't even use it for them, they'll end up all scratched with that wire frame! Good choice going for the Autoglym Custom Wheel Cleaner (if that was the one you went for) @SkudMissile21. It does a good job. Get yourself some Magma and a tin of Alloy Seal and keeping the wheels clean will be so much easier. A drop of Intensive Tar Remover will probably come in handy too. *Other products are available.*

Unbolt the seats. Then you also have the added bonus of being able to get right under the seat and down the other side, between it and the centre console. You don't have to take the seats right out, obviously that would give you the best access, you can just move them back and forward to get better access being careful of the electrical wire underneath.

Were you parked on the flat when you filled it? I filled mine up yesterday as we were heading south. It was saying range: 1400 miles and it did take about 3/4 of a 10l drum. It isn't great stuff to spill but it does clean away with fresh water.

Aww that's a crusher, especially after getting all that work done to it. Hope everything is ok and good luck with the sale if it comes to it.

Yeah you can do that too. Or given the time of year, leave the car sitting in the sun for a while. It doesn't need to be super hot but having the bodywork warm to the touch does make life easier. Let it cool back down before you go about using whatever you have to remove any glue though.

The Dunlop tyres are quite bad for wearing unevenly and "saw-toothing" on the inner edges of the rear tyres. If its bad enough, it might sound like a wheel bearing gone. I don't think your's should be gone like that after so little miles but it might be worth a check. Just stick your hand into the wheel arch and feel how the blocks are worn.

In that case, axle stands and a compact trolley jack would be your best bet. Ramps, while they are less of a faff to work with, do still take up a little room. These are the ones with the jack up section: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284077417887?hash=item422455659f:g:4HgAAOSwbs9frPuo

Yip and it shouldn't matter because the bolts all have covers on and look the same but you just know...

There has been a few threads discussing this on here. Most folk seem to use dental floss or fishing line and then a tar/adhesive remover to get any remaining glue or tape off. It shouldn't be too difficult, there's not much to the lettering. Hope this helps. Good luck anyway and remember to post pics.

Very nice. I will have to tackle my Scout this weekend before we go on holiday next week. My OCD with the wheels has me putting the locking wheel bolts opposite the tyre valve and having the flat of the arrow in the badge perpendicular to said bolt hole. Needless to say, I hate wheels where the spokes and bolt holes don't line up in any way!

Either a set of tall axle stands and trolley jack or good old fashioned ramps. It's not ideal obviously, you'll spend a lot of time on your back, but if it reduces costs it might be worth considering. You can now also get ramps that have a jack up section in them.

Not done anything to any of mine today but have been polishing a caravan this past few days with Autoglym Super Resin.

That's a good point about the moisture getting trapped in I forgot about. If you do go for it, whether yourself or a professional, you'd be worth raising the car up, removing trays and doing repairs to rust spots as suggested by @StevesTruck and then leaving the car to air dry for a few days if you can. Even better would be to get a heater underneath. Then apply whatever underseal you choose. Obviously this is all ideal conditions. If you don't have time or you can't be without the car for that long then its not ideal.

Great advice! A little tip I have discovered helps with the problem of getting polish on the unpainted plastic trims: cover them in your bumper/trim gel of choice before you apply the polish. If you get any on the trim after that, it just wipes off. If you don't want any bumper gel on your paint, apply masking tape before you apply the bumper gel.

The underbody protection on the Skoda's is very good. The only bits you really should consider undersealing would be the bits that all of the suspension is mounted to, i.e. the subframe and rear axle along with said suspension components, possibly the bumper backing plates and any metal pipe work under the car. As for what to use, that's pretty much down to personal preference. I quite like the ease of use and last of Dinitrol. Have also used Waxoyl plenty of times but it can get messy. Hope this helps.

That's a bit of a blow. Any ideas what you are intending to do about the gearbox then? Would a rebuild not solve the issue(s)?

No, cutting off that section of casting and part of the bolt should release it. If you cut along the face of the main hub casting too as you indicated in your pic, there will be no thread left gripping.

Hopefully you can see the red line I've crudely drawn and makes things clearer.

Yes you can cut in along there, then also at an angle, keeping the cutting disc as close to the inner edge of the drive flange there. Would probably be best to do that cut first with the new cutting disc. Followed by the cut you indicate in your pic. Remember not to go too far and start cutting into the main hub. I'll try to edit your pic to show better.

Behind the drive flange (bit the brake disc sits on) where the thread ends of the bolts are visible, use the angle grinder to cut off the lug of casting around the end of the bolt. Thinking back to when I did it, the cuts ended up being diagonal so as to avoid the main hub. I think the cuts started roughly in the middle of the bolts too. I hope this helps. Its quite hard to describe. Let me know if I can help anymore.

I faced this problem with a Caddy van last year with the added complication of rust. As such my solution had to be even more extreme; I cut the casting of the bearing hub at the bolt thread ends with an angle grinder until it was just a few mm from the main hub casting then, using a cold chisel, broke off the remainder of the casting around the end of the threads to release them. Worked a treat and saved a lot of time in the end but you do have to be careful not to damage anything else. Obviously this is only a viable option if you don't need to save the bolts and bearing for whatever reason. Hope you get something sorted.

No that's quite alright. To me the premium was worth paying to know I was getting the right part and it was actually going to get to me quite quickly. I have the same problem with the low number of vehicles in the scrap yards here. They crush them and ship them away quite quickly so there's nothing to go scavenging from. And as for folk that have done what your's had done, you'd think that there would be plenty of lids out there to be had! Glad you got something sorted. I'd be interested to know what the actual difference between the AJ and AR tops is. I expect its to do with the trumpet inside but not sure.