ChoonDoode

i wonder if it may be limited by the 256 character limit file path. I'm sure that applies to these headunits.

afternoon what infotainment system is it you're using?

My mum has got a 6sp 110ps engine in her Scala. Albeit the Scala is slightly smaller, loaded with 4 people it's got enough power to get going. I've had a go of it and give it a bit of right foot and it's quick enough. Only thing to bear in mind, the 1.4 has more torque (as well as HP) so if you're carrying a lot of stuff often, it may be beneficial.

Euro6 is the minimum for diesels though. Surely a recent diesel will be ok?

The best thing to do is to try and drive it in similar conditions to what you normally would. Only thing I'm thinking, with the amount of miles you do, does a diesel not make more sense?

Judging by that picture, no.

Never in all the years of having an MOT done on all my cars have any of them been failed for an LED bulb. All my cars have had brake lights, sidelights and indicators changed. BUT I can understand a car failing if they've been failed if a halogen headlight has been changed to an LED or xenon bulb. On my other cars, I've replaced the headlight bulbs with Osram Night Breakers.

good to see you've found bulbs which work

The stealership sent an email out the other day (hence me asking the above question) and a belt and pump change is quoted at £549. I may be able to find an independent garage in my area who'll do it a bit cheaper, but for the sake of a few quid I'd rather have it done by Skoda themselves

I think to try and stretch the time of the belt being on the car will be foolish. It's due for changing in May, so I'll get it changed then. I didn't wish to approach the stealership with this question because I understand they'll take anyone's money

I think the general consensus is replacing it isn't it? I was looking I got the car in May 2016, but the way things ran with lockdown and whatnot, it's next service is scheduled for October this year. Can't see 6 months being too much of an issue. I'll attempt to get some pictures of it tomorrow. I have had a look at it already and I can't say it feels lack or looks wrong. However, I've not one in disrepair to compare it to though.

Evening all, As the title suggests, my car is nearly 5 years and based on the maintenance schedule, it'll need a cambelt change. But with a bit of time not driving often due to poor health before lockdown, then lockdown and the change to working predominantly from home now, my car has got just over 20k on the clock. If I had a crystal ball, I wouldn't have got a diesel, but I've paid off the car and I'm not in a position to change to a petrol. Anyway, I'm sure there are possibly a number of people in a similar situation to me not driving a lot currently, but it is still advisable to get the cambelt done now and on time as opposed to waiting a bit until there's more mileage on the car? I obviously understand a cambelt and waterpump replacement is a hell of a lot cheaper than having the engine rebuilt after the pistons and cams have gone snap, crackle and pop. Your thoughts TIA

If you think the lights come on too soon, you can change this option in the lights section on the settings.

If someone by you has a VCDS or equivalent tool, stop start is able to be permanently disabled. any 096 agm batteries are suitable for the octavia.

Yes, changing any bulb type requires you to tell the car what you're changing it to, otherwise the canbus system will throw up an error. The only bulbs which I didn't need to do it to were the rear indicators

the thing with batteries is how they're used. If you're making a lot of short journeys and or using a lot of the electrical 'bits', then that will causing a lot of wear to the battery. IIRC it's only when the engine gets up to proper temperature does the alternator start to charge the battery properly. That'll usually be around 13.3v and then it'll raise to around 14.4v when you're slowing down. The tranny vans in our work chew through batteries, mainly because fleet stopped equipping them with 2, but because we do a lot of short trips and then have an inverter charging all sorts of work gear. The last van I drove had a new battery fitted and within a couple of weeks, the stop start stopped working.

That's it. I couldn't justify putting one of the racingline kits on because I've accomplished it using a stanley knife and a bit of tape

I done the following 'tweaks' on mine; * Added a K&N panel filter * Removed the snow grate * Closed off the air intake exit on the driver's side * Opened up the air intake on the passenger side I added the K&N panel filter first as it's just something I've always done on my cars. I didn't notice any increase in performance and / or fuel economy. They may have, but they will be very negligible. Removing the snow grate was just for the sake of 'does this really need to be here?' I will say the biggest change has been from closing off the air intake exit on the driver's side and opening the passenger's side. Firstly, this means it's only cool air coming into the engine as it won't be able to 'potentially' pull in any from the engine bay and also it meant it wasn't blowing 'dirty' air over the engine compartment. I recently removed the K&N filter because it was in need of both cleaning and reoiling, but a lot of places are wary of oil coated filters (Darkside don't recommend them, but instead are happy with a standard paper) so threw the original paper one back in. Again, I wouldn't know I've done it. The major thing to bear in mind is it's a combination of things which get you power.

Well, as simple as things could get, the plug from the passenger side had come out from the other plug which is clipped above the firewall. I pulled up that side of the scuttle plate and could easily see the wire. Then as I traced it, it just come into my hand. It was just a case of plugging both back into one another. I'm a little worried now they've come apart in the first instance, but I tried to pull them apart without touching the retaining clip and it seemed firmly fitted. I've not long come in from 'testing'. I threw a 2 litre bottle of water in the freezer earlier on and I got that chilled enough to be just on freezing. I poured that other the windscreen to get that cooled down. Whilst I was doing that, I threw the kettle on and then used the steam from that to fog up the inside of the windscreen. Then it was just a case of turning the engine and screen on and seeing things return to normal. I can only assume it wasn't fully secured when it's come out of the factory and over time and driving, it's now come away enough to lose contact in the circuit. Just glad it was something as simple as that, as I'm not in the mood for having the car in the garage and or glazers whilst they charge me for it to be repaired.

0769 - Analog Measuring Input C1155 31 [009] - No Signal Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 45 Mileage: 50927 km Date: 2018.09.06 Time: 10:58:56 Supply voltage: Terminal 30: 12.0 V Terminal 15: On I found that on ross tech, but that could be for any part of the cars' electrics

like I say I got the bulbs on ebay, but I can't direct you to the specific ones as I can't go that far back in the purchase history. I use VCDS so the menus are different on OBD11. The instructions may be similar to those found on top of the MK3 main page.

Never any errors on mine. I made sure to buy them off a UK based seller and with proper feedback. They've never thrown any errors up and they've never turbo flashed. I've changed the front fogs on mine to LED's myself yes. This does require recoding though, so if you wanted to do it, you'd need someone with a VCDS or similar tool to do it.

i just found a set of canbus friendly ones on ebay. Didn't need to do any messing with resistors or coding. Just plug and play. The purchase history doesn't go back far enough on ebay for me to put a link to them I'm afraid. The only bulbs which aren't LED's on my car are the door mirror puddle lights

@SashaGrace quick question regarding heat windscreens because I know you had your one replaced (can't find whether your car already had one or whether it was an addition) but do you know whether the connections for the positive side of the circuit to the left and right hand sides are accessible? Looking on pictures of the screen I'd assume they'd be under the scuttle plate. Don't know whether that's the specific screen, but it's certainly a mk3 heated one. I'm just thinking if they're there, I could disconnect the one connected for the passenger side and see if there's voltage when the screen is turned on. That'll be a way of determining whether it's the screen or the circuitry at fault.

I found this link when I searched on here, it actually on the Superb section but this page shows a wiring diagram for the heated screen. But I can't make head nor tail of it. https://www.drive2.ru/l/530317274016383479/ I can understand there's 2 relays to make the screen work. I just can't decide where they are. I know one at least is in the engine fuse box, but I don't know whether one is in the cabin one. I don't know if I'd tuned out from it, but when I press the button, I don't here a relay clicking into life. But I do for the rear screen.